# Fattening up a doe who doesn't care for feed?



## Goat_Scout (Mar 23, 2017)

I was wondering, how do you get a doe to gain weight if she doesn't have much of an appetite (isn't a piggy like goats typically are) for grain/any type of feed?

I have a Nubian doe that we bought at the end of May with her 5 day old buckling. Scarcely a week after we brought her home she went down with a heavy load of Barber Pole worms. She was (then) almost 2 years old, and at that point she barely weighed 50 pounds, and looked like a sack of bones. We were very surprised that she even lived. 

Well, now we're coming on 4 months since she was cleared of the worms (our vet ran a fecal after they had treated her for BP, and she didn't have worms anymore).
Last week we had the vet over to castrate and dehorn two calves and to perform Ultrasounds (on 4 does), and draw blood from all the adult goats to test for diseases. 
Well, when it came time to draw blood from Matilda, the vet saw that her lower eyelids were very pale and that she had Barber Pole worms... again. We had noticed these past few weeks that she wasn't looking as good as she usually did, but unfortunately the thought of her having BP worms again hadn't even crossed my mind. 

So we dewormed her, and now are working on getting her fattened up. I weight taped her and she weighs almost 80 pounds, which I think is good considering the 50 she was back in June?
My problem is, she just doesn't seem to have much of an appetite for grain/sweet feed/calf pellets/alfalfa pellets. She eats grass, brush, hay and leaves like there is no tomorrow, but just doesn't really love feed. All of my other goats are huge pigs and just love feed regardless of what kind it is. 
Matilda has been this way since I got her, it isn't because she's anemic or sick. Has anyone else experienced this? I need to get some weight on her for breeding season, and of course for her health's sake. We are going to dry her off soon, which the vet suggested doing.

Thanks so much!


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## ksalvagno (Oct 6, 2009)

There is no way I would breed her at that weight. Alfalfa hay would help. Try beet pulp. I'd also do rumen boluses.


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## Goat_Scout (Mar 23, 2017)

She is separated from the buck and I am awaiting the arrival of anti-breeding aprons as another safeguard. How much should she weigh before I breed her? We have alfalfa hay, and next time we go to TSC I'll get some beet pulp. 
Where do you get the rumen boluses?


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## mariarose (Oct 23, 2014)

I've seen them advertised in online catalogs for livestock stuff. You might want to ask your friendly neighborhood Farm Co-op too.

I agree, this does seem like a rumen issue. Did you give her any Probios or similar after you treated her BP worms last time?

I agree about waiting to breed, and would baby that rumen. No grain until you get some probiotics. Flat dark beer, or Probios while you are waiting for the rumen boluses, and a splash of ACV in her water, too..

I'm glad she's devouring all that roughage. That's a sign she is trying to raise the ph in her gut.

Poor thing. She's lucky to have you looking out for her.

Last year I rescued a full grown Boer who was down to 43 lbs. The vet warned me she was not long for this world, but she fought her way back.

You are so awesome.


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## Goat_Scout (Mar 23, 2017)

Awww, thank you so much for the encouragement!! 

We gave her Probios during and after treatment last June. But I am pretty sure that it is now expired, so another reason why we'll need to head to TSC soon!

And out of curiosity, how can you tell that it is a rumen problem?


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## Goatzrule (Feb 7, 2013)

Maybe someone with more experience will correct me but for horses we use Canola Oil and/or black oil sunflower seeds.


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## mariarose (Oct 23, 2014)

I love horses, and am glad to see someone knowledgeable about them.

However, horses are not ruminants, so don't have a rumen to shut down. And too much fat will shut the rumen down. A lot of things will shut the rumen down.

Healthy rumen, healthy goat. is a truism for a reason. Yeah, there can be a lot of things go wrong, but a nonfunctioning rumen is always a killer, and a partially functioning rumen prevents complete health and vigor.

I like seed oils, and BOSS is one of the easiest seeds to find and use for most of the US. I think a little bit of it would be a great supplement once the goat can digest it. 

I see a lot of abused, skinny, and dehydrated horses here. Wish there were more horse people like you around.


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## Goatzrule (Feb 7, 2013)

Ive used the seeds on my does before and bucks to fatten up for winter. But obviously make sure the rumen is working fine before you try anything new


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## HoosierShadow (Apr 20, 2010)

Does she eat loose minerals? What kind of feed are you offering her? 
I like using the Goats prefer brand Goat Probiotic Power from TSC. Dose it daily. You can mix it with some Vitamin B Complex, I'd think 15 minutes before offering feed. 
Something we tried this summer and I think really helped was using a product called
Vita Charge Liquid Boost. It's a bit costly and probably have to order it unless your lucky enough to have a store that will sell it locally. We gave it to does/bucks that my kids were showing to help with stress and keep them eating/drinking before shows. It came recommended by some good breeders.

You can try a different feed and see if that makes any difference. Beet pulp and BOSS. Or you can try Calf Manna. 
You can try Healthy Goat Coat oil on her feed, if she won't eat it you can drench her with some. 
Rice Bran Oil works really well too. It depends on what your able to spend, and how picky she will be with the feed suggestions. one thing I've learned, goats love to spend our money and waste the things we buy!


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## Goat_Scout (Mar 23, 2017)

Thank you all for the replies! I moved Matilda to a different smaller area - recommended by the vet so that she doesn't have to go very far to browse. So for the past week she didn't have access to loose minerals until I put some out there in a small trough today (which her kid promptly overturned, so I will need to go out there soon and fix it permanently to the wood ). We have Manna Pro minerals from TSC and kelp too.

Yesterday we went to TSC and I got some Probios and another probiotic supplement to be given via syringe. I decided not to get beet pulp, to just to work with what we have for now. I forgot to get Healthy Goat Coat oil but will hopefully next time we go into Zachary.

@HoosierShadow - we've tried three different types of goat feed (from TSC) so far, none of which she went crazy over. But for the past couple days I've seen some improvement, she is eating more readily! She likes calf pellets and some really expensive grain (what else) we get shipped in from New Country Organics. Oddly she eats better when I feed her alongside the other goats.
I also tried giving her a handful of BOSS yesterday, and she loved it! Previously whenever I've tried to give it to her she'd take only one tiny bite and then be done.

Below are some pictures attached of Matilda, taken yesterday. In the second picture she is beside her 4 month old son (in the red collar). We are going to wean him once I get around to making some goat milk soap for a friend. I have some of her milk in the freezer, but I don't know how much I'll need just yet, and don't want to dry her off until I do.


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## mariarose (Oct 23, 2014)

Just in case you don't know. Weaning a kid does not mean drying her up? You can wean the kid and actually get more milk for yourself.

I'm not saying wean the kid before you want to. I'm not saying you can't dry the doe. I'm just saying the 2 are not inextricably linked if you don't want them to be.


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## Goat_Scout (Mar 23, 2017)

Yes, I knew that.  I actually didn't want to wean him this early, but our vet told us that it would be best to dry her up since drying her up would mean all the feed/protein she eats would go towards gaining weight, not making milk and needing to gain weight. We do "need" milk for our (human) foster baby, but we'll just have to wait until mid January when we'll have does in milk again.


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## mariarose (Oct 23, 2014)

I often supply for foster babies. I wish you were close.


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## toth boer goats (Jul 20, 2008)

If she has kids on her or in milk, she is putting all her reserves into her milk.
That brings them down in weight, especially if she doesn't eat, drink enough.

If she repeats getting worms, I would give her copper bolus. I think I also see some fishtails there. 
Copper helps to fight worms. But stress too can trigger them.

Loose salt and minerals is good to have out free choice with good copper and selenium in it.

Anytime a goat is not eating well, get a temp. If normal or a bit sub, give probiotics and fortified vit B complex, 6 cc's per 100 lbs SQ for a few days, even longer if you wish. It helps with appetite as well as giving her rumen thiamine needed for good health.

Calfmanna is a good product for weight gain, but expensive.
Alfalfa hay is really good too.


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## mariarose (Oct 23, 2014)

How is she doing?


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## Goat_Scout (Mar 23, 2017)

mariarose said:


> How is she doing?


So sorry, I didn't see this until now!
Right now we have her and Vivian together (in the same small grassy run), and sometimes they get let out to eat leaves. She definitely has been eating her grain with more gusto (and she also has access to loose minerals and a full scoop of alfalfa hay during the day), and I think I see a little improvement weight-wise - what do you think?


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## mariarose (Oct 23, 2014)

Yes, I do think there is improvement. I think also she is so lucky to have you. Great job.


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## toth boer goats (Jul 20, 2008)

She is looking better, you are a good goat mom.


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## Suzanne_Tyler (Jul 19, 2014)

She is looking good


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## Goat_Scout (Mar 23, 2017)

Thank you! I am so glad that you all think so.


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## Goat_Scout (Mar 23, 2017)

HoosierShadow said:


> Does she eat loose minerals? What kind of feed are you offering her?
> I like using the Goats prefer brand Goat Probiotic Power from TSC. Dose it daily. You can mix it with some Vitamin B Complex, I'd think 15 minutes before offering feed.
> Something we tried this summer and I think really helped was using a product called
> Vita Charge Liquid Boost. It's a bit costly and probably have to order it unless your lucky enough to have a store that will sell it locally. We gave it to does/bucks that my kids were showing to help with stress and keep them eating/drinking before shows. It came recommended by some good breeders.
> ...


Have you ever given Healthy Goat Coat oil to pregnant goats? I gave it to Matilda this evening, but I also have another goat that I would like to give it to - she's 7 weeks pregnant, and I'm sure it's fine but just want to be on the safe side.


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## lottsagoats1 (Apr 12, 2014)

When I have a goat who doesn't have an appetite, I give them injectable Vit B complex for several days, probiotic paste and a dose of that mineral paste (I forgot the name and I'm not at home to check it out.) to boost them and increase their appetite.

Do you copper bolus? That might help the worm issue.

I had a doe this year who refused to eat anything more than a little bit of hay during her last month of pregnancy and the entire time she was feeding her twins. As soon as they were sold, she started eating like she hadn't eaten in months, which actually, she really hadn't.


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## toth boer goats (Jul 20, 2008)

All great advice.


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## Goat_Scout (Mar 23, 2017)

Lottsagoats1 - I just received an order I placed for copper boluses. I will need to give her kid some as well, now he is looking too thin. ☹ I think most of it is due to the stress of weaning, for the first few weeks he was hysterical, poor guy. 

On the bright side, Matilda looks GREAT! The (almost) daily probiotics, probios, and goat coat oil have worked wonders. I will try to upload some pictures of her later today. 

Thanks everyone so much for your help!


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## Goat_Scout (Mar 23, 2017)

Here are the pictures. What approximate weight should she be before I breed her?


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## Suzanne_Tyler (Jul 19, 2014)

She looks like a fine weight for breeding to me.


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## TCOLVIN (Sep 22, 2014)

WH


ksalvagno said:


> There is no way I would breed her at that weight. Alfalfa hay would help. Try beet pulp. I'd also do rumen boluses.[/QU
> 
> 
> Suzanne_Tyler said:
> ...


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## mariarose (Oct 23, 2014)

TCOLVIN said:


> WH


I don't know that abbreviation. What does WH mean?

I'm old and not up on all the text speak....


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## ksalvagno (Oct 6, 2009)

Are the pictures supposed to be the goat who is thin? She looks fine to me.


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## Suzanne_Tyler (Jul 19, 2014)

mariarose said:


> I don't know that abbreviation. What does WH mean?
> 
> I'm old and not up on all the text speak....


The rest of tcolvin's reply is inside the quote box, at the very end.


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## toth boer goats (Jul 20, 2008)

She looks OK to me as well.


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## Suzanne_Tyler (Jul 19, 2014)

TCOLVIN said:


> where do you get your rumen boluses?


You can get them from most TSCs, or Jeffers, PBS supply, etc.


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## mariarose (Oct 23, 2014)

Suzanne_Tyler said:


> The rest of tcolvin's reply is inside the quote box, at the very end.


Ah. Got it. I'm glad you answered that for him.


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## Goat_Scout (Mar 23, 2017)

ksalvagno said:


> Are the pictures supposed to be the goat who is thin? She looks fine to me.


Yes, the newest pictures show what she looks like now, a month ago she was too thin.

So I could go ahead and put her in with the buck when/if I see a heat? A couple months ago she had a little white discharge and, when the buck was tied up outside the fence, she was on the other side just lookin' at him (while he was blubbering and acting silly ). I put them together (this was before she had worms the second time and she was then in good weight) and she was intimidated by him and ran. They were together all day and night but I never saw him breed her at a stand-still - he would jump up on her and she'd run, so it probably wasn't very effective, lol. I don't _think _she's bred, but maybe.... ?


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## mariarose (Oct 23, 2014)

She looks mature enough now to know what she's about. Really young, flighty, girls may not quite understand the term "standing" heat (I've tried to explain to them, really!), and will run when she should stand still. But your girl should actually stand for a standing heat so I'm thinking you just did not catch her at the right time. If you see her going into heat again, put them back together. I don't see a problem with her current weight.


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## Suzanne_Tyler (Jul 19, 2014)

Have you not seen her go into heat again? She is going to drive you crazy for weeks lol, with the possibility of being bred


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## Goat_Scout (Mar 23, 2017)

Suzanne, I know!! The thing that will help me though is that if all goes well, we should have kids as early as December (around the 20th), so that should help...
I have not seen any signs of heat from her since that incident a couple months ago. Maybe it is due to the fact that she was underweight for a little while after? There are so many possibilities!


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## top_goat (Sep 16, 2014)

I'm a bit late to this party, but you've obviously done a great job with this lovely lady. As for the possible breeding several months ago...bucks often do their best work at nite...especially if the days are warm...so you may not see an actual breeding. If there have been no signs of heat for several months, she could be pregnant. I like to run blood tests...the not knowing just drives me crazy! But at this point, assuming a mid-to-late December due date, she ought to begin building her udder soon. That's a good sign! Best wishes!!!


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## toth boer goats (Jul 20, 2008)

When you see a white discharge, that indicates she just went out of heat, that is why she ran from him. Just before the white, they have a clear discharge when they are in season.


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## Goat_Scout (Mar 23, 2017)

toth boer goats said:


> When you see a white discharge, that indicates she just went out of heat, that is why she ran from him. Just before the white, they have a clear discharge when they are in season.


Really? Besides her, three of my does this year have had white (not clear) mucus while in standing heat. Two of them are now 2.5 months along and the other one just missed her latest date for coming back into heat.


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## Goat_Scout (Mar 23, 2017)

top_goat said:


> I'm a bit late to this party, but you've obviously done a great job with this lovely lady. As for the possible breeding several months ago...bucks often do their best work at nite...especially if the days are warm...so you may not see an actual breeding. If there have been no signs of heat for several months, she could be pregnant. I like to run blood tests...the not knowing just drives me crazy! But at this point, assuming a mid-to-late December due date, she ought to begin building her udder soon. That's a good sign! Best wishes!!!


Thank you! I would send in a blood test, but we did that in mid October for all of our adult goats to test for Johnes, CAE and CL (and to test one of the does for pregnancy). The testing cost was reasonable for nine goats, but the cost to ship was outrageous. I would have had Matilda tested for pregnancy then, but I had just assumed she wasn't bred.


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## toth boer goats (Jul 20, 2008)

Goat_Scout said:


> Really? Besides her, three of my does this year have had white (not clear) mucus while in standing heat. Two of them are now 2.5 months along and the other one just missed her latest date for coming back into heat.


This explains it, yes, clear to white. 
http://kinne.net/heat-det.htm


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## Calfee Farms (Oct 10, 2017)

Goat_Scout said:


> I was wondering, how do you get a doe to gain weight if she doesn't have much of an appetite (isn't a piggy like goats typically are) for grain/any type of feed?
> 
> I have a Nubian doe that we bought at the end of May with her 5 day old buckling. Scarcely a week after we brought her home she went down with a heavy load of Barber Pole worms. She was (then) almost 2 years old, and at that point she barely weighed 50 pounds, and looked like a sack of bones. We were very surprised that she even lived.
> 
> ...


I would make a mixture of alfalfa pellets, pelleted calf manna, cracked corn, beet pulp, black oil sunflower seeds, and use some Nutridrench or molasses as a binder. I have used this mixture with great success along with Probios paste as per the labeling as often as directed. This feed should only be fed short term but should be accompanied with a good quality grass hay free-choice 24/7.


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## Goat_Scout (Mar 23, 2017)

@Calfee Farms - The doe I wrote this thread about is now healthy and in great condition, but I have another trickier doe that I am trying to fatten up as well, so thank you for the advice!


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## TexasGoatMan (Jul 4, 2015)

I agree with Toth Boer Goat, copper for the worms and hair, it goes hand in hand ! I do my best to give copper boluses every 6 months, as I believe that is the recommended dose, but if one of my goats hair looks bad (fish tail ) or show some signs of worms more quickly than the others, then she gets an added boluses, but never more than 3 times a year. Too much of a good thing is not good ! I am still learning goat care so that is why I read on this site. Glad there are so many willing to share their knowledge here. I have read and heard that corn is not good for goats. My goats love whole corn. I feed the dry nannies and growing kids a small amount on a regular basis if not close to kidding are in milk. They are all fat and I believe the corn is part of the reason why.


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## Goat_Scout (Mar 23, 2017)

I am not positive, but I'm pretty sure that I felt a kid in Matilda yesterday. It was low down a few inches in front of her udder. It felt exactly like the kid I've been feeling in Midge (due January 11th) these past few weeks. If Matilda's bred she's most likely due mid to end of January, and the past week or so she seems to have gotten a bit "looser" in the back end.


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## goat girls (Dec 13, 2017)

I have great sucses with a horse weight gain product for weight gain goats but just a little bit


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## Kath G. (Jul 13, 2017)

Nice shiny coat there too!


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## Kath G. (Jul 13, 2017)

@Calfee Farms , just curious and trying to learn more, why do you say that mix should be fed only short term?
Or, anyone who might know the answer to that?


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## Calfee Farms (Oct 10, 2017)

Kath G. said:


> @Calfee Farms , just curious and trying to learn more, why do you say that mix should be fed only short term?
> Or, anyone who might know the answer to that?


Goats should not be on alfalfa, nor corn, nor sugary stuff like molasses because it can cause all sorts of problems. The alfalfa and corn can cause all sorts of problems in goats like founder, urinary calculi in bucks and wethers, and diarrhea. The sugary molasses can cause stargazing in goats due to extremely high blood glucose levels. A good quality hay will help "dilute" the chances of this happening though. Even though goats have been domesticated, they are better suited to eating pasture and browse not commercial feed every day but not everyone has a few hundred acres for their goats so their protein, vitamin, and mineral needs must be met somehow and that's where goat feed comes in.


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## mariarose (Oct 23, 2014)

Calfee Farms said:


> The alfalfa... can cause... urinary calculi in bucks and wethers, and diarrhea.


I personally loved everything you said about what goats need and how the way that we have to keep them means meeting their needs in ways that can be problematic. Those were fantastic points you made.

The only thing I disagree with is the above statement. Although it is perfectly true that a diet of only alfalfa would cause problems, feeding alfalfa as part of a diet does not cause UC. Too much phosphorus in relation to calcium does that, and alfalfa helps balance out the high phosphorus diet often given. Grain is high in phosphorus, and most grass hays are, too..


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## Kath G. (Jul 13, 2017)

@Calfee Farms , could you comment on the BOSS & shredded beet pulp?


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## mariarose (Oct 23, 2014)

The BOSS is high fat, and can interfere with digestion. And the shredded beet pulp, coming from sugar beets, is high in sugars.

Not so much bad, but bad in excess for an extended time....


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## Calfee Farms (Oct 10, 2017)

Kath G. said:


> @Calfee Farms , could you comment on the BOSS & shredded beet pulp?


The BOSS gives my goats a glossy coat and is supposed to be high in selenium/ vitamin E. We have not had great luck with alfalfa and corn. Multiple publications by renowned veterinary sources all state that alfalfa and corn are not good long-term for goats. We just choose not to feed either long term (only to our weanlings for about 6 weeks) but BOSS we do feed just once a week to keep their black coats deep and glossy plus vitamin E and selenium are essential to reproductive health and fertility.


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## Calfee Farms (Oct 10, 2017)

mariarose said:


> I personally loved everything you said about what goats need and how the way that we have to keep them means meeting their needs in ways that can be problematic. Those were fantastic points you made.
> 
> The only thing I disagree with is the above statement. Although it is perfectly true that a diet of only alfalfa would cause problems, feeding alfalfa as part of a diet does not cause UC. Too much phosphorus in relation to calcium does that, and alfalfa helps balance out the high phosphorus diet often given. Grain is high in phosphorus, and most grass hays are, too..


 I guess I misspoke about the alfalfa causing UC's. You are absolutely correct. Too much protein in male goats in general can lead to a condition called "pizzle rot" which requires surgery in most situations to correct/ remove the pizzle.


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## mariarose (Oct 23, 2014)

Calfee Farms said:


> Too much protein in male goats in general can lead to a condition called "pizzle rot"


I have heard of Pizzle Rot, but not that it was associated with too much protein. Also you taught me today that molasses is associated with star gazing.

Thanks for your sharing.

Protein is important, but too much is harmful. Molasses has a use, but needs to be used with care. So fun to be able to talk with people who don't immediately see black and white, but allow for greys.


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## Calfee Farms (Oct 10, 2017)

mariarose said:


> I have heard of Pizzle Rot, but not that it was associated with too much protein. Also you taught me today that molasses is associated with star gazing.
> 
> Thanks for your sharing.
> 
> Protein is important, but too much is harmful. Molasses has a use, but needs to be used with care. So fun to be able to talk with people who don't immediately see black and white, but allow for greys.


You're welcome! Yes, I'm grey all the way!  As long as I have been raising farm animals, I probably have made as many mistakes as there can be made and learned from everyone of them.


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## goat girls (Dec 13, 2017)

Calfee Farms said:


> You're welcome! Yes, I'm grey all the way!  As long as I have been raising farm animals, I probably have made as many mistakes as there can be made and learned from everyone of them.


Haven't we all made every mistake possible


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## mariarose (Oct 23, 2014)

No, not yet. My stomach clenches in terror at the thought of all the mistakes I have yet to commit...


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## Calfee Farms (Oct 10, 2017)

mariarose said:


> I have heard of Pizzle Rot, but not that it was associated with too much protein. Also you taught me today that molasses is associated with star gazing.
> 
> Thanks for your sharing.
> 
> Protein is important, but too much is harmful. Molasses has a use, but needs to be used with care. So fun to be able to talk with people who don't immediately see black and white, but allow for greys.


*Pizzle Rot in Goats*
To deal with the cause first. Like many conditions we see in sheep, pizzle rot is the result of an interaction between a bacteria and some other factor. The bacteria is _Corynebacterium renale_ or one of that group. These bacteria have the ability to break urea down using an enzyme, urease. The other factor is an increase in the protein level of the diet, quite common in the month before breeding to improve the condition of the rams. Once the protein in the diet from all sources rises above 16%, urine can contain more than 4% urea. This excess urea makes the urine alkaline. The bacterial urease breaks down the urea to release excess ammonia. It is this ammonia that causes a severe irritation and ulceration of the skin around the preputial opening. Once the skin is ulcerated, _C. renale_ or other bacteria will infect it. The debris from the ulcer form a crust which may block the opening to the prepuce. The infected ulcers can spread through the opening to the mucosa of the preputial cavity. Any scar tissue formed around an untreated ulcer can permanently constrict the preputial opening to prevent extrusion of the penis at breeding.

Once the opening is blocked, urea dribbles out to stain the surrounding wool. Fly strike often follows ulceration and urine soiling of the preputial area. Internal ulceration is painful; the prepuce becomes enlarged and swollen, containing old urine and debris. If there is severe interference with urination, the ram may become uremic and die.

Treatment consists of removing the wool around the area, then removing the dead tissue in the ulcer with a debriding agent, such as a dilute hydrogen peroxide solution. Then applying an ointment containing penicillin, bacitracin or 5% copper sulphate at weekly intervals. As an alternative to an ointment, a cetrimde solution can be used. If there is a suspicion that the ulcer has spread to the mucosal of the preputial sac, penicillin injections will help the healing.

To stop dirt contaminating the treated area, the ram should be bedded on a good layer of clean straw until the ulcer has healed. Depending on the treatment the external ulcers can take a few weeks to six months to heal. Part of the treatment is to remove the cause, that is adjusting the protein level of the diet to below the critical 16% level. Forage analysis and a ration formulation based on that analysis for each stage of production should be part of the flock management.

The healing ulcer does not prevent the passage of urine, but because of the pain of extruding the penis at breeding, the ram will be very unwilling to breed. Even if the ram can breed, it should not be used as there are reports of a venereal transmission to the ewe causing an ulcerative vulvitis. The same organism can be isolated from these lesions. A ram with pizzle rot should not restart breeding until the ulcers have completely healed.

For more information:
Toll Free: 1-877-424-1300
E-mail: [email protected]
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## SouthernLife (Dec 31, 2017)

Have you tried giving her peanut hay Good quality hay should help.


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## Calfee Farms (Oct 10, 2017)

Peanut hay is high in calcium as well. Good for does but I.ce again anything that throws the calcium/ phosphorus ratio off is gonna cause urinary tract problems. Personally, I have never fed the stuff because it is unavailable in my neck of the world but it is an excellent feed source for lactating, nursing, pregnant does, and weanling does. I would certainly feed it if it was available.


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## Goat_Scout (Mar 23, 2017)

SouthernLife said:


> Have you tried giving her peanut hay Good quality hay should help.


I've never heard of it! I might try it sometime, thanks!


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## keren (Oct 26, 2008)

I'm very late to this conversation because I've been off the forum for years LOL but it popped up on the homepage and I thought it was interesting because I have a saanen doe and her daughter both of which are much the same. They don't have a burning desire for grain/pellet feed, they just prefer hay. Basically I've given up trying to cater to their fussy demands and give them ad lib access to good hay, the mother I have given a year off after her first lactation and after a year dry just eating mostly hay she is a healthy weight, not fat like my others get but no longer skinny. The daughter is a year old and about to be mated for the first time. When in lactation I found the mother did eat grain reasonably well, mixed with lots of Lucerne chaff and Lucerne hay (alfalfa). 

Mostly I just thought I'd comment because its interesting to see mine aren't the only two oddballs. Your doe looks pretty healthy in the pictures.


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## mariarose (Oct 23, 2014)

:welcomeback:


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## Goat_Scout (Mar 23, 2017)

Welcome back to the forum, Keren! Good to know about your girls. 
Matilda just had her second kid last week - she was pregnant after all! I really didn’t want to breed her so soon after kidding and her sickness, but of course the buck had other plans.... :/


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