# Meet Luna...



## BlueMoonSpot (May 11, 2012)

...my 3-year-old ND doe. She is my first goat. She's very sweet and loves being petted and groomed. She's had seven kids so far and is a really good mom, always kids easily and takes good care of her babies. =)

http://s1174.photobucket.com/albums/r604/SpeckledGreyMare/?action=view&current=Luna.jpg

I was wondering if I could post photos of her for y'all to critique. She's not registered and is just a pet, but I'm curious to see if her conformation is good for her breed, just for fun. Who knows, maybe I'll get into showing of some sort...

Anyways, what angles of photos should I post? Side shot with head held up, and then a "back end"/udder shot? Would it help to have some "pasture pics" of her, too?

Thanks!
~ BlueMoonSpot


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## DavyHollow (Jul 14, 2011)

Any and all would help. Have her keep her front legs together and spread her back apart a bit. One of each side, then one of front and one of back would be most helpful. Pasture pictures just add to her personality I'm sure   She's a beaut from what I see.


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## ThreeHavens (Oct 20, 2011)

What a lovely girl! Can't really tell her conformation from this angle, but she looks gorgeous to me. And healthy! (=


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## BlueMoonSpot (May 11, 2012)

Thanks! I love her a lot and take care of her as best as I know how. 

Here are the photos of Luna. Sorry...but the 100?+ weather outside seemed to have melted some of my thoughts. I forgot to take photos at all those angles. I can take more later tonight if it would help.  Anyways, I hope these give you a good enough idea of her. Stella, Luna's doeling, wouldn't leave us alone, so she's in one of those photos, too. 

Left side:
http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r604/SpeckledGreyMare/IMG_9998.jpg
http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r604/SpeckledGreyMare/IMG_0013.jpg

Hehe, I've never taken photos of my goat's, uh, backside... xD
http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r604/SpeckledGreyMare/IMG_9993.jpg

(And just for fun, three pics of Stella being cute. <3
http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r604/SpeckledGreyMare/IMG_0047.jpg
http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r604/SpeckledGreyMare/IMG_0021.jpg
http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r604/SpeckledGreyMare/IMG_0017.jpg)


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## ThreeHavens (Oct 20, 2011)

She's so pretty! All right, I am still relatively new to goats, but I'll do my best (=

Things I like: Good front udder attachment, nice and smooth. Good capacity and width. Nice straight front legs. Good udder shape and definition ... looks like a good milker! The first picture looks like her back is "roached", but in the second it looks level, so it's hard to tell on that point ... Overall, I think she is a very good doe.

Things to improve upon: She could use a more defined brisket and possibly tighter elbows. Her neck could be a bit longer, and I'd like to see her back legs have a little more of an angle to them. Her escutcheon could stand to be up higher.

I think she is lovely. I love her coloring and from what I can tell from the pictures ... her personality too <3


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## BlueMoonSpot (May 11, 2012)

Thanks for telling me what you think of her! I'm happy to know that she's a decent little goat...I mean, not that it really mattered, but it's nice to know that she's not a terrible specimen of a goat that I shouldn't even dream of breeding. =D

A roached back is a dip in the back, right? Kinda like a sway back in horses?

Heehee...see, now I really want to milk her. If only she would stand still... (or if I could get a milk stand).

The brisket is the chest area in front of the legs at the base of the neck, right? I'm still learning my goat terminology. =) And could you explain what you mean about tighter elbows? I'm curious. And (I promise, this is my last question!) what's the escutcheon?

Thanks again for critiquing her. =) See, Luna, you're a decent goat after all!
Luna: Maaa. *chews cud and scratches head against fence*


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## ThreeHavens (Oct 20, 2011)

No problem! glad to help =D

This may help illustrate what I'm talking about (the escutcheon is illustrated in the second picture of the goat's rear):










A roached back, if I am remembering correctly, is when the back is higher at the rear. It's very common and nothing to turn one's nose up at, but a level topline, when the withers are level or actually taller than the pin bones is more "desirable" in the showring (=

Edit: And remember, I'm new to goats too! So don't take my word as law (=


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## BlueMoonSpot (May 11, 2012)

Ooh! Thanks for that diagram. It helps a lot. I printed it out to stick it in my goat binder for future reference.

Ok, so a roached back isn't necessarily bad, like it won't cause her any physical problems?

Thanks for all your help! I appreciate you taking the time to look over Luna's pictures. =) I've only had goats for six months, so you're definitely more experienced than me!


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## ThreeHavens (Oct 20, 2011)

I have it on my website for me to constantly look at, haha =P

Shouldn't cause any problems. Some say that a level backed goat has easier kiddings ... same goes for the rump. A level rump makes a smooth "runway" per say, for the kid to travel through. The key is to know your does' weaknesses so that you can find a buck who is strong in those points (=

Well, we've had goats for only over a year, so you're not that far behind! Just keep reading as much as you can, visit other goat breeder's websites and read what they say about their own goats' strengths and weaknesses. That's been the biggest help to me (=


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## BlueMoonSpot (May 11, 2012)

Cool. Thanks! That's the trouble, finding a buck. There's a chance that I'll be getting a few more goats and if so, I might get a buck then...


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## Karen (Jun 22, 2010)

She's a cutie, that's for sure!  That white patch on her forehead is just demanding scritches!


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## ThreeHavens (Oct 20, 2011)

I wouldn't get a buck just yet. If you get one you might as well get two because you'll have to rotate. I think bucks are a little more difficult to take care of, and there's also the smell; not that they're not just as wonderful as the does (= But I think for your first year or so it might be best to use someone else's buck. That's what we have done ... that way you can see how the kids turn out as well, so if you decide you REALLY LOVE how the buck and doe "mixed" maybe you can even buy the same buck you used before (=


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## BlueMoonSpot (May 11, 2012)

My sister was out in the pasture and shot this photo of Luna. I thought it showed her angles better than some of the previous ones. http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r60 ... G_0074.jpg =)

Hmm...I need to find a buck, then. I'm having a hard time finding someone locally who doesn't require CL/CAE/Johnes testing. =/ Maybe I'll call the local 4H dairy goat leader...


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## ThreeHavens (Oct 20, 2011)

That's a very good picture! (=

Hmm, that would be tough =/ According to my vet, the testing only costs about $15 per goat. Might be worth the cost if it'll get you a good buck (=


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## freedomstarfarm (Mar 25, 2011)

Cute doe. I would try and breed her to a boy with nice rear leg angulation that is strong on his pasterns. With a good level topline and level rump, good brisket extension and good well attached udders behind him. Those are the things that would help improve on your doe from what I see. 

To test for CL, CAE & Johne's it costs $22.50 per goat plus a $10 submission fee and shipping. That is at WADDL where I and many others test. They are a well accredited lab. 
Where are you located? Maybe someone on TGS is local and offers stud service.


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## BlueMoonSpot (May 11, 2012)

Cool, thanks for the recommendations on what to look for in a buck. =)

Oh, I didn't know it was that inexpensive...I guess I saw a higher number somewhere. So I guess you just draw blood and send it in? You're right; if testing gets me a better buck, it's worth it. =)


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## ThreeHavens (Oct 20, 2011)

I think that's about it. $15 for CAE and $15 for Johne's per goat is what our vet told us. So if you wanted you could just test the ones you plan to breed, or test them all as one. Get some experienced opinions on different ways to do that (=


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## freedomstarfarm (Mar 25, 2011)

Here is the WADDL fee schedule http://www.vetmed.wsu.edu/depts_waddl/fees.aspx#Immunodiagnostics . The tests for CAE, CL & Johne's are all serology tests and you can see that the fee is lower if you are in state. I am not so the total for the 3 tests for me is $22.50 + the accession fee which is the $10 no matter if you send 1 sample or 50.


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## BlueMoonSpot (May 11, 2012)

Thanks for the link!

I forgot to mention...I'm in Northern California and that's about all I can say publicly. If there's someone here who could let me rent a buck or bring my doe to their farm, they could PM me and see if they are close enough. =)


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