# Ivomec plus?



## georgiagirl98 (Jun 30, 2013)

I just got some ivomec plus today and i have no idea how to give it? 
-I know how to give shots under the skin in their shoulder/armpit but thats about it. 
-4cc per 100 lbs right? 
-Where/how should I give it? 
-Tips? 
-It's for a 10 month old 80-100lb buck.
-can i give it to a doe that has kids nursing?

I tried to kind of split up all the questions sorry there are so many, i just dont want to do it wrong. 

Thank you!


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## goathiker (Apr 14, 2011)

That is the oral dosage. I don't give it injected so, you'll have to wait for someone else on that.


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## nancy d (Oct 5, 2007)

Our worming is done orally, 1cc pr 40lbs.
Yes its fine for the dam still nursing.


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## Ride4ever (Aug 7, 2013)

I got this website that gives you all the info you need. It says cows, but it can be used on goats. I pulled out and answers to the questions to have, but I would still suggest you read the information at the website. http://www.drugs.com/pro/ivomec-plus.html
1: The way you are used to giving it is the correct way to give this product. Behind the elbow, what you call the "armpit"
2: the dosage is 1 cc per 50 lbs. This is by subcutaneous injection.
3: You already know this and I have told you. If you need more help I would suggest having an experienced animal person come and show you or help you do it.
4: I have only a few tips. HOLD THE GOAT STILL!! make sure the goat cannot move before you put the needle in. If you put the needle in and the goat moves than it can cause a bigger hole and the needle could hit something inside the goat, besides it is painful for the goat. also have a helper.
5: that size buck is fine. You will want to give .5 or .7 cc to this goat as he is not 110 lbs, but remember never underdose wormer. Don't do extreme overdose, but it is better to do a little more than a little less.
6: They do not have a withdrawal time set for female cows(goats) so I don't think you should. You could research that a little more and see what other people do. I don't worm with Ivomec after my does kid.
I hope this helped you.


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## goathiker (Apr 14, 2011)

That is way under dosed for goats. They must be given at least twice the amount you would give a cow and 3 times the amount you would give a horse.


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## toth boer goats (Jul 20, 2008)

I give 1 cc per 33lbs orally it works better for goats with worms. 

Injecting is when they have mites.


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## happybleats (Sep 12, 2010)

Im A sub Q'er...lol..I prefere to use wormer injected...it stay in the system longer and works slower...for me it has been very effective

Sub Q is 1 cc per 40# : ) I like to give it where the kneck meets the body..my goats seem to react less here...get them walking as soon as you give it and that helps the sting wear off faster..


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## georgiagirl98 (Jun 30, 2013)

Thank you everyone! 

I ended up giving the buck 2 1/2 cc orally. Im waiting until tomorrow to give it to the doe, i ran out of time today. So in 10 days i need to give it again? Ill probably knock his dose up to 3 ccs next time just to make sure it will be enough. 

He's had bottle jaw for about a week, i should have caught his eye color sooner, i called the vet when it started and they said to try valbazen since i had it on hand. It didn't help at all so i looked up some threads on here so thats why im trying it.  

He's getting b 12 shots, red cell, and ACV every day and his color has started coming back to his eyelids.  He is usually on hay and grazes all day but I read about them needing higher protein feed to get rid of it faster, so I was thinking about giving him some of the does grain (the does get it but i never feed it to the bucks) if he only gets grain for 2 weeks or so should i worry about UC? 

Thank you again, i had no idea how to give it.  Im hoping it will work soon and i can get him better again.


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## goathiker (Apr 14, 2011)

I would go with alfalfa over grain. Do you have Dandelions? They are very very good for anemia.


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## Ride4ever (Aug 7, 2013)

goathiker said:


> That is way under dosed for goats. They must be given at least twice the amount you would give a cow and 3 times the amount you would give a horse.


 I want to thank you for calling me out on that. After reading that I did what I should have done in the first place and went to the website where I get all of my medication info. Here is a link and the correct doseage is 1 cc per 50 lbs given orally however she does note that "Some people are now using 1cc per 34 lbs with good success. This is 3X the label dose." This is what she says about giving it "This injectable wormer is not given by injection. It works much better if given orally. Measure the wormer with a syringe, but remove the needle before squirting the wormer into the goats mouth. Get it as far back as you can because it does not taste good and they will try to spit it out." I use a short hose that fits tightly on the syringe. Now that you have the right info you can give the medication. http://fiascofarm.com/goats/wormers.htm#ivomec


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## ksalvagno (Oct 6, 2009)

That is even outdated when it comes to chemical dewormers. Many people are now giving it orally at 1cc per 20-25 lbs.


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## Ride4ever (Aug 7, 2013)

That is because(and she mentions this on her site) it is becoming uneffective in the US and otehr countries. She states "*Do too it's overuse, there is beginning to be resistance to this wormer in the US, Thailand and perhaps other countries.* " So you must use more of it for it to be affective. However I think the doses that I wrote down are fine. It would probably be better to use a different wormer than keep uping the dosage.


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## ksalvagno (Oct 6, 2009)

Actually you should use one dewormer until it no longer works.


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## toth boer goats (Jul 20, 2008)

If your goat has or had bottlejaw, give wormer, 3x, 10 days apart, then again in 30 days.


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## Ride4ever (Aug 7, 2013)

ksalvagno said:


> Actually you should use one dewormer until it no longer works.


 I have always heard that you should not use the same wormer every year. We change it up every year at least doing 1 wormer on year and then another that next and then back to the one I did before. I will often throw in herbal wormer in one year as well.


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## happybleats (Sep 12, 2010)

Pam is correct...its better to use the same wormer until it no longer works...


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## Ride4ever (Aug 7, 2013)

How do you know when it stops working and how long does that usually take? when it could go a few times of not worming them before you knew them it wasn't working? I think it would be better to use different wormers. You probably could go 2 years using the same wormer, but I would want to change it after that. Also you can't always use the same wormer on pregant does that you would usually use therefore you have to us different wormers.


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## happybleats (Sep 12, 2010)

I have been using Ivomec Plus and Valabazen for 7 years..still effective..when you worm when needed instead of on a regular rotation then it works longer..also treating for the targeted worm is important..for ex: if you have a goat with bottle jaw..figure its Barpole worm..so you treat with ivomec...it doenst work..so you think Ivomec no longer works ..but in fact the worm your goat has is Liver fluke which can also cause bottle jaw...and only ivomec plus or valbazen kills liver fluke..so Ivomec goes on the shelf with you thinking it no longer works..when you were in fact treating the wrong worm..this is why fecals are important..or at the very least,chooseing a wormer with more bang for your buck since liver fluke eggs and barpole eggs look very much alike, and can easlly be mistaken choose a wormer that kills both...this is why I choose Iv. Plus and valbazen..if I cant have a fecal done for what ever reason..at least I know my wormer is covering a large base..when you are consistant in your worming program, worm when needed, use fecals to pin point the worm at large and famancha chart to assess anemia, then your wormer of choice will work longer...and you will know when it no longer works for you...what ever wormer(s) you choose you need one to kill liver fluke, and a white wormer ..You could choose Valabazen as your soul wormer but its not cost effective for large herd...1 cc per 10# can add up compaired to 1 cc per 40# sub Q of Iv plus..but each producer should decide for himself on that. If you like using Cydectin, then you should keep either valbazen or Iv plus handy in case liver fluke is found to be the problem..because cydectin will not kill liver fluke..so yes, you are right, not all wormers cover all worms or meet every need and you need two...Iv.plus does not take care of Tape..and valbazen should not be used on bred does...it cant kill mites either..so choose two wormers to coverall a good bases and use them along with regular fecals and famancha charting. If you happen to choose wormers that do not kill liver fluke..the you obviously will need a third..
I hope that helps a bit and not too wordy


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## goathiker (Apr 14, 2011)

I am going on 12 years using Safeguard and Ivomec plus. Both are still working very well for what I use them for. Safeguard is used on littles under 6 months, for Giardia, and as an aid to cocci prevention. It still is working well enough on Brown Stomach worm that I almost never need to use anything stronger on them. Ivomec Plus gets rid of the Brown Stomach worm and Liver Fluke that is my main problem here. 
I have goats here that haven't needed to be wormed in 2 years. So, they haven't been...I never use wormer when it isn't needed. If someone does need wormed they are put into a small worming pen that is never used for anything else. That way they are not shedding a whole load of eggs and larvae into my barn, main pens, and pasture area. 
Worming goats is a whole learning experience of it's own. They are highly prone to creating resistant parasites just because that's how they are made. Once the resistance has grown to include all available wormers, then where will we be?


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## janeen128 (Dec 31, 2012)

Can they grow a resistance to the herbal stuff Goathiker? I read that they can't that is why I am trying the Fir Meadows, but just wanted to know your take on it.


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## Scottyhorse (Feb 11, 2013)

I have also read that they are not able to.


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## goathiker (Apr 14, 2011)

Well, no. Herbs do become less effective over time but, it isn't resistance in the parasite...It's the goat's body getting used to them. Herbs don't kill the worms like chemical wormers. They lull the worm to sleep and then cause the goat to have intestinal seizures and pushes that dump said worm out on the ground. The worm can't adjust to the poisoned environment because he's not in there to try.
Herbs always do what they are intended. The body can get used to them though. When that happens it's good to do a start over event. Like right now, everyone should be begging pumpkins and their goats should be eating all they can. Pumpkins are natural wormers and cleansers all by themselves. They provide a really good start over.


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## janeen128 (Dec 31, 2012)

Cool, good to know. I'm on the hunt for pumpkins now


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## happybleats (Sep 12, 2010)

This time of year they are abundant : ) good for chickens too : ) I blend up the seeds with goats milk..kind of a gross smoothy...serve it back inthe pumpkin shell...the chickens , ducks and turkey gobble it right up, shell and all ( sorry for the pun..couldnt help it lol)


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## Scottyhorse (Feb 11, 2013)

Can they eat the pumpkins that are already carved?


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## janeen128 (Dec 31, 2012)

I'm now on the hunt for pumpkins, I have laying hens too. I'm sure I won't be looking too hard


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## goathiker (Apr 14, 2011)

Mine love the old Jack-o-Lanterns. They seem to like the partially cooked quality that the candles give them. Just make sure they aren't moldy.


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## Meg1614 (Oct 28, 2013)

How do you know that your goat has worms? Do you see it in there fecal matter. Pre anemia stage.


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## happybleats (Sep 12, 2010)

Also Janeen I forgot to add that I put Cayenne pepper..its not hot for the birds but does help with parasites!!

Meg .you can have a fecal done by any vet to get a worm count...also condition tells us too...like a rough coat, pale gums and lids, runny bum, generally unthrifty appearance...
here is a chart to learn about the eye lids : ) 
http://goat-link.com/content/view/110/107/#.UnWEnpRxte4


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## Meg1614 (Oct 28, 2013)

Thank you! I actually tried to get a fecal done on my doe. No vet in my state will do it. I have to take it to the department of AG to have it done. I have never heard of that before I find it very strange.


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## ksalvagno (Oct 6, 2009)

Not sure what state you are in but certainly there must be livestock vets there. But sending it in to the state lab is fine to do.


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## Meg1614 (Oct 28, 2013)

Oh yeah there are plenty live stock vets. I have horses and never encountered this before. I live in Delaware by the way and I just what to thank you for all your help. I've learned so much from you in such a short amount of time.


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## Ride4ever (Aug 7, 2013)

goathiker said:


> Well, no. Herbs do become less effective over time but, it isn't resistance in the parasite...It's the goat's body getting used to them. Herbs don't kill the worms like chemical wormers. They lull the worm to sleep and then cause the goat to have intestinal seizures and pushes that dump said worm out on the ground. The worm can't adjust to the poisoned environment because he's not in there to try.
> Herbs always do what they are intended. The body can get used to them though. When that happens it's good to do a start over event. Like right now, everyone should be begging pumpkins and their goats should be eating all they can. Pumpkins are natural wormers and cleansers all by themselves. They provide a really good start over.


Wait question about the pumpkins. I had a 4-H leader who heard that pumpkins were a good wormer and fed it to her pregant does. Every single one of them miscarried. So you probably shouldn't feed it to pregant does, I would think?


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## ksalvagno (Oct 6, 2009)

You probably need to be careful where you got the pumpkins. They may have been sprayed with something. I have never heard of pumpkins being bad for pregnant goats. But I probably wouldn't trust ones from the store. Also, if they were moldy or something, that would also cause abortions.


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## janeen128 (Dec 31, 2012)

happybleats said:


> Also Janeen I forgot to add that I put Cayenne pepper..its not hot for the birds but does help with parasites!! Meg .you can have a fecal done by any vet to get a worm count...also condition tells us too...like a rough coat, pale gums and lids, runny bum, generally unthrifty appearance... here is a chart to learn about the eye lids : ) http://goat-link.com/content/view/110/107/#.UnWEnpRxte4


Interesting, I would have never thought that. Cool, I'll do that as well. Will find a pumpkin patch tomorrow


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## janeen128 (Dec 31, 2012)

ksalvagno said:


> You probably need to be careful where you got the pumpkins. They may have been sprayed with something. I have never heard of pumpkins being bad for pregnant goats. But I probably wouldn't trust ones from the store. Also, if they were moldy or something, that would also cause abortions.


I found pumpkins at a store today, but passed as I couldn't determine where they came from.


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## Kathy81 (Oct 16, 2012)

happybleats said:


> I have been using Ivomec Plus and Valabazen for 7 years..still effective..when you worm when needed instead of on a regular rotation then it works longer..also treating for the targeted worm is important..for ex: if you have a goat with bottle jaw..figure its Barpole worm..so you treat with ivomec...it doenst work..so you think Ivomec no longer works ..but in fact the worm your goat has is Liver fluke which can also cause bottle jaw...and only ivomec plus or valbazen kills liver fluke..so Ivomec goes on the shelf with you thinking it no longer works..when you were in fact treating the wrong worm..this is why fecals are important..or at the very least,chooseing a wormer with more bang for your buck since liver fluke eggs and barpole eggs look very much alike, and can easlly be mistaken choose a wormer that kills both...this is why I choose Iv. Plus and valbazen..if I cant have a fecal done for what ever reason..at least I know my wormer is covering a large base..when you are consistant in your worming program, worm when needed, use fecals to pin point the worm at large and famancha chart to assess anemia, then your wormer of choice will work longer...and you will know when it no longer works for you...what ever wormer(s) you choose you need one to kill liver fluke, and a white wormer ..You could choose Valabazen as your soul wormer but its not cost effective for large herd...1 cc per 10# can add up compaired to 1 cc per 40# sub Q of Iv plus..but each producer should decide for himself on that. If you like using Cydectin, then you should keep either valbazen or Iv plus handy in case liver fluke is found to be the problem..because cydectin will not kill liver fluke..so yes, you are right, not all wormers cover all worms or meet every need and you need two...Iv.plus does not take care of Tape..and valbazen should not be used on bred does...it cant kill mites either..so choose two wormers to coverall a good bases and use them along with regular fecals and famancha charting. If you happen to choose wormers that do not kill liver fluke..the you obviously will need a third.. I hope that helps a bit and not too wordy


I just went through a 4 hr class on parasite management in small ruminates - very very good information. I took it through OSU.


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## toth boer goats (Jul 20, 2008)




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