# Do my goats always need grain?



## LadyFromTheMountain (Nov 23, 2017)

Hi, I have two young doelings. Both are nigerian pygmy X One five month old one four month old. The lady I bought them from told me to feed them a large hand full of grain daily untill they get bigger then let them eat just hay untill they are ready to breed. So my question is when is it time to slow down on feeding them grain? When will they be considered "bigger"? Thank you!


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## goatblessings (Jan 6, 2015)

There are probably a lot of different answers to your questions, as there are a lot of different feeding practices. For me, I do give grain to growing kids until they are yearlings. If I don't breed them at a year, then a great hay and loose minerals should be fine.


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## ksalvagno (Oct 6, 2009)

A big handful is not much. I would continue until they are at least a year old.


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## Goat_Scout (Mar 23, 2017)

I don't feed grain (on a regular basis) to my goat kids unless I think they need it. And so far only my two purebred Nubian kids have. My minis and meat or meat cross kids do/did just fine on a grass/forage/hay diet. 

It's really up to you though.


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## mariarose (Oct 23, 2014)

@LadyFromTheMountain 
Which grain or grain mix are you referring to? If it is corn or mostly corn, I would not give even a small handful as it is high calorie and not very nutritious. And Dwarves easily get fat in my experience. Thank you for caring about your goats. HaHa, "Bigger", such a clear term!


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## LadyFromTheMountain (Nov 23, 2017)

It's a pellet grain for goats


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## mariarose (Oct 23, 2014)

Is it a local feed mix, or is it a national brand we could look up online for you? On the ingredients list, is corn one of the top half of the ingredients?


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## Goatzrule (Feb 7, 2013)

If its cold where you live it wouldnt hurt to keep giving them grain during the winter


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## LadyFromTheMountain (Nov 23, 2017)

I don't remember the brand name, I dump it into a tote and throw the bag away lol it's the brand they carry at Wal-Mart. And it has been pretty cold here at night so,i feed them when I lock them up at night so that there tummies digesting will help them stay warm


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## goatblessings (Jan 6, 2015)

Providing lots of good quality hay will help keep them warm - I usually free choice hay in the cold months.....


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## LadyFromTheMountain (Nov 23, 2017)

Ya they always have access to hay


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## goatblessings (Jan 6, 2015)

What brand of goat feed are you using? I'm not familiar with what is available at Wal-Mart.


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## LadyFromTheMountain (Nov 23, 2017)

I just looked at Wal-Mart's website the one I bought is called goat 16 and it's made by a company called family farm


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## mariarose (Oct 23, 2014)

Awesome. Well done on both the free choice hay and the sleuthing to find the grain.


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## mariarose (Oct 23, 2014)

Can anyone help?

I've really really tried to find a nutritional analysis for this feed, and I've failed. I know it is pelletized, but @LadyFromTheMountain already told us that. It has 16% protein, but I had surmised that. It has ammonium chloride which doelings don't really need but won't be harmed by. It is fairly inexpensive. What do you all know?

Here is the sole link to it I could find.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Family-Farm-Goat-16-Feed-40-lb/42010641

Family Farm Goat 16 are 4 very common words so there were lots of results, just not results I needed.


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## Jessica84 (Oct 27, 2011)

I can’t find it either, the only thing that keeps popping up is Kent goat finisher and the Walmart site. One of the reviews did say on the Walmart site that they liked it because it is so low in calcium.......that’s about it though lol if I remember right the Walmart I used to go to has this feed and I will be right next to it Friday I can go in and see if it’s the same if no one jumps in with the info


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## toth boer goats (Jul 20, 2008)

I feed all my youngsters grain as they grow for 1 year. It helps them achieve their full potential.

A handful of grain isn't much at all. But if you increase do it slowly and gradually. 

I ask you this, do we feed children as they grow ice cream and chips as their main diets, I say no. It is the same with goats, they need to be fed properly to grow and be healthy.

Make sure they stay worm and cocci free as they grow.

Yeah, cannot find the label to state what it has in it either. Sounds good, but not sure.

Make sure they get loose salt and minerals with copper and selenium. Free choice. Not the block,


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## mariarose (Oct 23, 2014)

Jessica84 said:


> One of the reviews did say on the Walmart site that they liked it because it is so low in calcium


I read that too. It made me wonder if that reviewer was under the impression that calcium causes UC. You just don't know what they know or think.



Jessica84 said:


> I can go in and see if it's the same if no one jumps in with the info


You are the absolute best.



toth boer goats said:


> A handful of grain isn't much at all


Completely agree. But I don't think that a large handful of mostly sugar is good for young Pygmy/ND crosses, and I'd like to suggest more a more nutritious option if that is the case. If it is a good option, and she's happy with it, then great!



toth boer goats said:


> do we feed children as they grow ice cream and chips as their main diets, I say no


It is so funny you said this, because I was talking to a potential buyer on the phone today, and I used the example of feeding children and teenagers a diet full of Doughnuts, Hot Dogs, and NOS.

You are fantastic.


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## Jessica84 (Oct 27, 2011)

Lol that’s the example I use too! 
I was thinking the same thing as you with the calcium but also what is considered low calcium to them lol
Really there is no 1 answer fits all to how long to feed grain, if to feed it threw a Goats whole life or not. There are so many different factors as well as managements and goals. I grain till kids are weaned, about a month after depending on how much the last of their grain lasts. FOR ME (big bold letters) I do it this way because I don’t feed grain and once their dams kid they get kicked out in the herd so instead of a double smack of going into the herd and being cut off grain the grain part is done. They don’t kid till they are 2 so no reason to push the feed and I don’t show. Again this is me.
Keep a eye on their body score as well. A fat goat is just as unhealthy as a skinny one


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## mariarose (Oct 23, 2014)

Here is how I see it.

There are management practices that are just rock bottom, across the board, no matter what.

Like provided hoof trimming, nutritious roughage, potable water, minerals, company, medical care. Also protection from the elements, predators, bullies, parasites.

There are management practices that can, and should, be fitted with the reason the goats are there. Toth Boer Goats has different goals than you do. You have different goal than I do. Stands to reason that our management will differ also.

What causes some confusion, imo, is the inability to differentiate between the 2.

There are some who think that all practices are mere opinion, like "I don't have to feed hay, I can just give more pelletized grain feed" or, "I don't want to get 2 goats, so I'll only get one" "I can breed this 2 month old to get kids sooner"

Then there are people who think that no one else's practices can deviate from what "works" for them, regardless of differences in environments, resources, and goals, or even the possibility that what "works" for them isn't really working all that well. "I don't have to copper bolus more often than every 6 months, so if you give more then you are killing your goat." "I can afford this blood test that only costs me $20, so you can afford it too. I doubt your word when you tell me your vet will charge you $120."


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## TexasGoatMan (Jul 4, 2015)

Mariarose, I am sitting here and laughing and grinning reading that last post. You are so right ! I believe that you guys (Posters) here on this site are very knowledgeable about goat care. I appreciate all of you and your efforts to help. Great bunch of folks. LadyfromtheMountain came to the right place for help. I am not giving any advice on this as I don't know a thing about ND/Minis. Never owned one and don't plan on it. However I bet you figure it out with all of the help you get here. Good luck.


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## mariarose (Oct 23, 2014)

:bookgoat::bookgoat::bookgoat:

Always something more to learn, and laugh about!


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## LadyFromTheMountain (Nov 23, 2017)

When will I know if my little girls are fat and getting too much grain? They've always seemed chubby but my younger one basil has a very round tummy. The dad's are pygmy and they are built like that so maybe genetics are causing it?


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## goat girls (Dec 13, 2017)

chubbynes is in the breed I don't feed grain if I did I would probably feed grain to kids-yearlings milking,nursing and pregnant does


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## Calfee Farms (Oct 10, 2017)

LadyFromTheMountain said:


> Hi, I have two young doelings. Both are nigerian pygmy X One five month old one four month old. The lady I bought them from told me to feed them a large hand full of grain daily untill they get bigger then let them eat just hay untill they are ready to breed. So my question is when is it time to slow down on feeding them grain? When will they be considered "bigger"? Thank you!


Your goats would actually benefit more from a goat specific pelleted feed versus an "All Stock" or generic feed that is supposed to be for a variety of farm animals. We feed our kids we wean and intend to retain or sell until 6-8 months of age (when they sell or are turned out to pasture). We provide hay 24/7 and a loose goat mineral as well. We get excellent results with this method.


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## mariarose (Oct 23, 2014)

She is feeding her Pygmy/ND cross doelings Family Farm Goat 16.

I don't have any fat goats, they have to work too hard for their food, but the signs of being too fat are the same for all breeds, some breeds will be too heavy more easily than other breeds.

If you do a search here you will find lots of threads on body condition and assessment Most of them will have pictures (worth a thousand words you know) and that might help more than what I can say here and now.

Pygmies are a meat breed, and easily fattened, like piglets. NDs are a dairy breed, but once upon a time they were the same breed. They can still put on weight easily in my experience. I'll look and see what threads I can find, but I am real busy right at the moment. I won't forget.


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## cbrossard (Oct 4, 2014)

LadyFromTheMountain said:


> When will I know if my little girls are fat and getting too much grain? They've always seemed chubby but my younger one basil has a very round tummy. The dad's are pygmy and they are built like that so maybe genetics are causing it?


For NDs (not sure if it's the same for pygmys) you can feel along their back along either side of their spine where their ribs are. You should be able to feel their bones and a little padding. If you can't feel their bones or it's really squishy then they are fat! If their bones feel sharp and pointy then they are skinny. You really can't tell from their bellies!


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## bamaherd (Jun 14, 2017)

Before We ever bought our ND goats, we spent months and months reading books, researching on the internet, and talking with other goat owners and breeders. The bottom line is, feed whatever is best for your goats. I have one doe who doesn't care for pellet feed, the other would gorge herself on it. I will tell you what we did for our kids who we brought home at 1.5 months old. We gave them Dumor Goat Sweet Formula which is available at Tractor Supply (Our walmart has no livestock products whatsoever) and lots of hay. We gave Alfalfa until they were about 20 pounds, then gradually switched to bermuda/coastal hay. They grew (and are still growing) to be healthy goats with no digestive or urinary issues whatsoever. 

You could spend weeks or even months reading contradicting goat advice. Our vet will tell us one thing when I know it to be very different in the real world, as a goat owner. Our goats are our kids (pun intended). We treat them like family, so their health is everything to me. 

My advice is this: Any changes you make, do so gradually. Observe their digestion habits, general health, and behavior. If they seem a little gassy, cut back on pellet feed. Feed your goats the feed that they seem to be healthiest eating. Your best tool in goat health is spending time with them and knowing their behavior. You need to be able to know right away if there is a change so that you can quickly diagnose/deal with the health change. Listen to others and contemplate their advice. There are facts like a calcium rich diet can cause Urinary Calculi in bucks and wethers or too little water can cause a decrease in milk production...know the common sense facts but realize certain tweaks may be better for one herd than another. That's my experience. I would get very aggravated when you read one tip somewhere but then another source says something totally different. It took me a while to realize that I should simply look at MY goats, their symptoms, their eating habits, and their behavior and base any necessary changes or treatments on MY goats. 

The GoatSpot peeps are wonderful! Everyone is super helpful and very quick to respond. They genuinely care about your goats. 

Good Luck!!


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## toth boer goats (Jul 20, 2008)

All, really good advice.


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## LadyFromTheMountain (Nov 23, 2017)

So what do you guys suggest as a well rounded brand for loose minerals? I have them on the block right now but plan on switching to loose minerals very soon since I'm still researching brands and stuff, and I still need to build a loose mineral feeder


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## Jessica84 (Oct 27, 2011)

LadyFromTheMountain said:


> So what do you guys suggest as a well rounded brand for loose minerals? I have them on the block right now but plan on switching to loose minerals very soon since I'm still researching brands and stuff, and I still need to build a loose mineral feeder


You are asking questions that your not going to get a one size fits all lol but GREAT questions! Like the feed you will get different answers. So I'll start 
I like wind and rain cattle minerals, tractor supply might have it, mine no longer does. So
I now use a horse mineral caked gostrong. The main reason I like these two minerals is because the MY Goats actually eat them! They have pretty good amount of copper in them which mine really need.
Mariarose has made a topic on minerals and is really good about picking them apart on which are good or even better. Hopefully she comes along and gives you a link to that topic OR do a search on here and see all the topics on them.


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## LadyFromTheMountain (Nov 23, 2017)

Thanks! And ya I'll look into reading that, sounds very helpfuk


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## Suzanne_Tyler (Jul 19, 2014)

LadyFromTheMountain said:


> So what do you guys suggest as a well rounded brand for loose minerals? I have them on the block right now but plan on switching to loose minerals very soon since I'm still researching brands and stuff, and I still need to build a loose mineral feeder


Purina Wind and Rain Storm (that Jessica mentioned), Sweelix, and Cargill Onyx Right Now are all pretty good.


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## mariarose (Oct 23, 2014)

LadyFromTheMountain said:


> When will I know if my little girls are fat and getting too much grain? They've always seemed chubby but my younger one basil has a very round tummy. The dad's are pygmy and they are built like that so maybe genetics are causing it?


Here is a thread you may like

https://www.thegoatspot.net/threads/critique-my-niggis-please-fat-or-not.174514/

Here is the search I found it on.

https://www.thegoatspot.net/search/47161/?q=body+condition+overweight&o=date

Different wording comes up with other useful threads as well.

Sorry it took me so long to get back to you. Been dealing with obtaining firewood and hay for all our livestock before I'm trying to deal with ice storms...


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## LadyFromTheMountain (Nov 23, 2017)

Thank you! And good luck with those ice storms!


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## LadyFromTheMountain (Nov 23, 2017)

So I went to my closest feed store and looked at loose grain options. They had a Purina loose mineral that it's largest component was ash... 98% so now I'm just wondering what's the reason for adding ash to loose minerals?


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## mariarose (Oct 23, 2014)

Hey, Lady. Good for you for investigating your options, and that is a really good question.

Here is a really, REALLY simplified answer.

http://animals.mom.me/purpose-ash-animal-feed-5742.html

Basically this is saying that ash is not added to minerals, it is the minerals. There's lots more scholarly and in depth articles online if you want to know more.

What did you find out on feed?


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## LadyFromTheMountain (Nov 23, 2017)

I'm still not sure what kind of feed I'm gonna go with... Its a hard decision! lol


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## LadyFromTheMountain (Nov 23, 2017)

So I need some advice guys! My girl juniper is in heat or estrus or whatever lol not sure if it's her first But it's the first I've noticed, but she has diarrhea. I introduced them to free choice minerals two days ago and I made the mistake of also giving them baking soda free choice. So do you think the diarrhea is my fault or maybe because her estrus, this is probably tmi but I know I get it when I'm hormonal during my time of the month... Lol


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## mariarose (Oct 23, 2014)

It is not tmi. My bowels get loose during my period too. I've never noticed it for my does, though. Is it actual liquid, or like a pudding, or dog stools, or??? What color is it? What is her temp? Can this be a reaction to stress other than heat (mine are really having trouble in this freeze) Have you started giving them anything with a lot of molasses in it? Protein tubs and protein blocks are almost always molasses based. Mine get the tubs during the winter, so that would be a dietary change. Molasses often loosens the bowels until the body gets used to it.

Give us the info asked for, and anything else you think of, and we'll see what we can do to help.

Loose Minerals don't cause this.

PS Juniper is an awesome name.


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## LadyFromTheMountain (Nov 23, 2017)

The only things I've changed recently is the loose minerals and gave them baking soda. No extra stress factors lately except yesterday I took them for their first walk in leashes and they didn't like it lol the poos I see are mushy, one had small pellets but very mushy, the other was like all mush. Light brown colored instead of her normal dark brown. And she has some yucky slime under her tail that's kinda brownish, but I can't tell if it's coming from her butt or vagina. Its been pretty cold here so I've been giving a little extra grain, but I've been doing that for about a week now. My dad fed them over the weekend, maybe over fed?


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## LadyFromTheMountain (Nov 23, 2017)

And thanks! I love her name, juniper is my older girl born in july, pygmy nigierian dwarf mix. My baby girl is basil, born in mid august, same mix, more pygmy. Both are my adorable herbal named babies lolol


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## LadyFromTheMountain (Nov 23, 2017)

So I just went out and checked on them again, and it has a slimy almost snot like texture in it too. I found a pile that was off colored pellets and some smiley stuff. Not quite white but not brown. No worms that I could see...


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## mariarose (Oct 23, 2014)

OK, I'm researching mucousy bowels. I'm sorry this is happening to you. Can you get a temperature?

I would feed only hay, and give her probios (or probiotics of your choice. I really do not think you caused this with your minerals.


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## LadyFromTheMountain (Nov 23, 2017)

I don't have a thermometer


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## LadyFromTheMountain (Nov 23, 2017)




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## mariarose (Oct 23, 2014)

OK, Put that on your list of things you need to get. First thing you'll be asked (for any problem) is for a temp.


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## LadyFromTheMountain (Nov 23, 2017)

Ya its at the top of my list. Could I give her apple cider vinegar as a probiotic?


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## mariarose (Oct 23, 2014)

I don't know. I don't think that will hurt. I don't know it has the gut flora to help. Do you have any active culture yoghurt?

Can you hear rumen sounds? They'll be on HER left side.


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## LadyFromTheMountain (Nov 23, 2017)

She was burping earlier. I might have active yoghurt


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## mariarose (Oct 23, 2014)

Dehydration, parasites, and bacterial infections (like salmonella or e coli) can all cause mucus in stools. Cold weather and more grain can cause dehydration. So if the ACV would encourage her to drink more it may help if dehydration is an issue.

You said the feces are now a light brown? That is a good clue. I don't know what it is a clue to,.. but I'm sure it is a clue. I'll keep looking.


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## LadyFromTheMountain (Nov 23, 2017)

Ya, some of it is light brown, some of it is her normal dark brown


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## LadyFromTheMountain (Nov 23, 2017)

Could be dehydration then...


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## mariarose (Oct 23, 2014)

Can you hear rumen sounds? If not, it is vital she get probiotics, because the rumen has shut down. When that goes down then her temp will plummet, and she'll die quicker from that than from an infection.


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## LadyFromTheMountain (Nov 23, 2017)

I just went and checked on her and I can hear tummy sounds! I didn't see anymore slimey poos anywhere but she's still got slime under her tail. Not sure if it's still from earlier or new... Looks the same though. She's eating and acting pretty normal. Not as talkative as usual, well still talking just not as loud...


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## mariarose (Oct 23, 2014)

That is really good news. If that rumen is going, then you have time. Great job. You won't lose her tonight.

Feed stores carry calf scours pills I'll find you a link to show you what I mean. That is something I really like to have on hand.

http://www.pbsanimalhealth.com/details/Terramycin-Scours-Tablets/365-7948.html

Does she seem bloated, is she still burping, or has that stopped?


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## LadyFromTheMountain (Nov 23, 2017)

Doesn't seem bloated, just as round as usual. Her tummy sounded really active though


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## mariarose (Oct 23, 2014)

Do her lower eyelids seem pale?


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## LadyFromTheMountain (Nov 23, 2017)

I didn't get a chance to check... That means anaemia right?


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## mariarose (Oct 23, 2014)

Yes, that is right.

I just found this online.

*Different color of Poop and What they mean*
Did you know that different color of goat poop can mean different things. The different colors can help you determine the illness.

First let's start with the normal poop. Goats normally makes brown berries.

Green berries usually mean that they are on lots of grass and/or forage.

Anything other than good formed berries indicates diarrhea.

If you notice what looks like dog poop; consider that diarrhea. Try to find the cause and treat accordingly.

If the diarrhea/scours are black, blackish gray or dark brown you could possibly be dealing with coccidiosis.

If the diarrhea if brown it may be due to a change of diet cause the digestive system to be upset.

Yellow and white usually represent E Coli. There is usually an odor.

Green slimy diarrhea could be from enterotoxemia.

A dark, running or smelly diarrhea may indicate salmonella.


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## LadyFromTheMountain (Nov 23, 2017)

Sounds like too much grain over the weekend and it's catching up to her since I have been feeding her normal amount, I'll cut back. Do you think I should stay up tonight and check on her throughout the night? Or she should be fine untill first thing in the morning?


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## mariarose (Oct 23, 2014)

No more grain until the diarrhea clears, from whatever caused it. Make sure she drinks because diarrhea dehydrates. I would check on her from time to time.


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## LadyFromTheMountain (Nov 23, 2017)

Okay, thank you! I'll give you an update in the morning


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## mariarose (Oct 23, 2014)

Here s a helpful thread on another site, of which I am not a member. It is older, and I think the original poster's problem was tapeworms, which wasn't even mentioned. But it is still helpful and pretty thorough.

https://www.backyardherds.com/threads/goat-droppings-sticky.2687/


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## LadyFromTheMountain (Nov 23, 2017)

What do you like to use for deworming? I haven't reworked them yet but have been looking into doing it soon


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## LadyFromTheMountain (Nov 23, 2017)

*dewormed not reworked


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## mariarose (Oct 23, 2014)

I liked "reworked". I thought it...worked.

The answer to your question is, "It depends..." It depends mostly on what parasites I'm fighting. For instance, coccidia requires a coccidiostat. Regular wormers won't touch them. Tapes are another special case. Also on the individual state of the goat. "Is she pregnant, and if so, how far along?" Worming early in a pregnancy is never a good idea, unless the doe is near death. And some wormers should never be given to preggos at all. 

I highly recommend a fecal check before worming at all. Tapes are usually visible to the eye, but hardly anything else is.

My vet likes Cydectin oral sheep drench. But he gives it at the sheep dosage and goats need 2 times that amount.

Don't give pelletized wormers, they are worthless and make you feel safe because you wormed them.

I like Prohibit and Valbazen. Valbazen is one of those not to give during pregnancies. It also never works on tapeworms for me. It is supposed to, but it doesn't.

Horse pastes need to be given at 3 times the horse dose. Except for Quest and Quest Plus. Do not overdose them. Or maybe it is only Quest Plus you can't overdose...I don't remember. That is here on the site, somewhere.

How is the diarrhea this morning? Are you still confident in the "too much grain" diagnosis? My husband is so weird sometimes. When we started, he was convinced the goats had to have lots of grain, but he felt that free choice hay was too much. I've finally convinced him of the hay/browse benefits, but the grain thing still rears its seedy head.... OK, awful pun, I know.


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## LadyFromTheMountain (Nov 23, 2017)

She seems to be just fine this morning, I sat with her for awhile and she just hung out and happily ate her hay. She's still quiet which I don't like because she's usually very loud and vocal. But maybe it's just cause she's still got an upset tumm. I watched for awhile to see if she would poo, she didnt, pissed twice though so I know she's been drinking water. No new slime under her tail or slimy poos around the pen, so it seems that maybe her poos are solid again. I'll be checking in on her often today though just to be sure. I wanna see her poo! Lol


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## LadyFromTheMountain (Nov 23, 2017)

And I added a little ACV to their water to encourage her to drink more since it'll make the water yummy


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## mariarose (Oct 23, 2014)

LadyFromTheMountain said:


> I wanna see her poo! Lol


I said it before, I'll say it again. Goats make perverts of us all. You own goats but refuse to stare at urine streams, poop, tits (teats), vulvas, and testicles? You are not a good goat owner...

LOLOL


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## LadyFromTheMountain (Nov 23, 2017)

I'm like that with any of my animals if they aren't feeling well! I don't mind the dirty business lol


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## toth boer goats (Jul 20, 2008)

Good advice given.

Yeah, we do weird things for the health of our goats. 

If you do not see any poo signs, soon, she may be doing the opposite(constipation).
You can give her an enema, if you feel she is.

Following her around, making her walk, we usually can get them to poo.


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## LadyFromTheMountain (Nov 23, 2017)

I just watched her take a nice normal poo! Twice in a row actually!


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## toth boer goats (Jul 20, 2008)

Good to hear.


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## Pejink (Dec 16, 2017)

We have a Tractor supply here, and I didn't see anyone mention what kind, if any, they would purchase from there. We have a sweet feed(what they were given before us) and a 15% livestock feed we are mixing. Of course once I dumped it I didn't keep the bags *face palm*. They are both in pellet form, and from the sound of everyone I am feeding them way too much. I have two Nigerian Dwarfs approx 3 and 4 months old. One is much larger but is not squishy. The smaller you can feel ribs and backbone for sure and she is the bossy one when it comes to feed. Because they are so young I don't want to mess up their growth by too much or too little of something. My daughter would be heartbroken! Sorry not much of a question, just trying to scan for more general information.


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## FirestoneFarm (Aug 11, 2016)

I feed all my goats a little grain daily and always have hay available to them. I have one doe that is almost 2 yrs old that i have about cut out grains from and just have on strictly hay because she was getting overweight. But if you have given them grains daily and you decide to stop make sure to do it over a 2-3 week period or it can really mess up their digestion causing diarrhea which can lead to dehydration if you dont get a handle on it. But mine willed be turned out on pasture when it warms back up and their grains will be cut back altogether


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## Pejink (Dec 16, 2017)

FirestoneFarm said:


> I feed all my goats a little grain daily and always have hay available to them. I have one doe that is almost 2 yrs old that i have about cut out grains from and just have on strictly hay because she was getting overweight. But if you have given them grains daily and you decide to stop make sure to do it over a 2-3 week period or it can really mess up their digestion causing diarrhea which can lead to dehydration if you dont get a handle on it. But mine willed be turned out on pasture when it warms back up and their grains will be cut back altogether


Right now they don't have pasture because everything is dead and they are in a smaller pen due to they are a little wild. I don't feel they are overweight at all. In fact to me the younger one needs to put on some weight. But I've never had goats. 
Do they always eat grain like they are starving? Is it just that good to them?


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## FirestoneFarm (Aug 11, 2016)

Grains are sweets for them. Grains are the equivalent to candy. they are great for putting weight on kids and for helping does that just kidded to regain some energy.


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## NyGoatMom (Jan 26, 2013)

I think graining goats is very farm specific. I DO feed grains daily...all year and to all the goats. 

I have 3 does, one wether, one doeling, and two bucks. I feed a mix that one of the most trusted members on here ( thanks Jill  ) helped me construct. 

It consists of 4 parts alfalfa pellets, 1 part sweet 18 by Poulin, 1/2 part whole oats and 1/2 part shredded beet pulp. For my bucks, they get 1 part calf manna added to this as well as do the does when they are lactating and any growing kids, up to a year. 

I have a drylot situation and browse is given only when I trim trees for them or when leaves fall off the trees. I feed a grass hay consisting of Timothy, Orchard, Brome and Clover and they get that free choice 24/7.

I find that if I do not supplement with this mix, they don't keep weight as well. If they seem to be gaining too much (like in the fall when the leaves are on the ground) I back off the amount given. I can tell you that right now with the brutal cold we are having I have seen some weight loss even on this regimen. This years hay was late first cut and not very good, so I am giving more than I probably would if we had good second cut.

Basically what I'm saying is 1. it depends on your situation and season 2. it depends on the breed of goat 3. it depends on the individual goat. 

My Saanens require more feed to stay a healthy weight than my nubians. Buck and doe, not just does in lactation. I worried he would get too much "grain" and so he was getting 2 c alfalfa pellets, 1 c sweet 18, 1/2 c whole oats and 1/2 c shredded beet pulp along with 1 c calf manna , daily. Recently, I took him to the vet for scur removal and she told me to go ahead and increase that by 1/2 again. This vet is experienced with goats and said due to his large frame, he needs more than usual....so you, see....it really is specific to your animals and farm.


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## lottsagoats1 (Apr 12, 2014)

One of the biggest factors in feeding grain (or concentrates) is hay quality. The hay in my area is not great quality. The fields are mostly run down, lots of weeds (which the goats LOVE!). Our weather is usually really wet and nasty when we should be harvesting the first crop, so our first crop is usually not baled until July when the rains stop and the fields are dry enough to drive on. Sometimes that doesn't happen until August. I have to feed concentrates that are at least 18% to make up for the low protein hay, year round. The amount varies with age and stage of life (pregnant, lactating, dry and open, growing, retired) Mostly my hay is fed just for the fiber rather than for the nutrition. I feed alfalfa pellets and soaked beet pulp in addition to hay and concentrates for additional calories and calcium. Loose minerals and kelp meal; rice bran in the winter for added calories when the temp drops to below 20F.

If your hay is good, you can get by with not feeding grain (concentrates) once the kids have reached a year or so, depending on their growth time line and condition. Condition is the best way to tell how much grain they should be getting.


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## NyGoatMom (Jan 26, 2013)

lottsagoats1 said:


> One of the biggest factors in feeding grain (or concentrates) is hay quality. The hay in my area is not great quality. The fields are mostly run down, lots of weeds (which the goats LOVE!). Our weather is usually really wet and nasty when we should be harvesting the first crop, so our first crop is usually not baled until July when the rains stop and the fields are dry enough to drive on. Sometimes that doesn't happen until August. I have to feed concentrates that are at least 18% to make up for the low protein hay, year round. The amount varies with age and stage of life (pregnant, lactating, dry and open, growing, retired) Mostly my hay is fed just for the fiber rather than for the nutrition. I feed alfalfa pellets and soaked beet pulp in addition to hay and concentrates for additional calories and calcium. Loose minerals and kelp meal; rice bran in the winter for added calories when the temp drops to below 20F.
> 
> If your hay is good, you can get by with not feeding grain (concentrates) once the kids have reached a year or so, depending on their growth time line and condition. Condition is the best way to tell how much grain they should be getting.


Well said lottsagoats! I also feed loose mineral mixed with kelp, and condition is the best way to tell what they need.


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## goat girls (Dec 13, 2017)

NyGoatMom said:


> My Saanens require more feed to stay a healthy weight than my nubians.


I have noticed this too. Any ideas why?


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## NyGoatMom (Jan 26, 2013)

goat girls said:


> I have noticed this too. Any ideas why?


I have a feeling it has a couple of factors...1. They are generally larger therefore require more food. 2. They also generally produce a lot of milk compared to some breeds. 3. Genetics?


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