# kidding supplies and care questions-first time kidding!



## emmaandoscar (Jan 20, 2013)

Hello everyone!

It's been a long while since I've been on here, but this is my go-to place for goat info.!

I've got a doe that is pregnant and we are expecting her to kid somewhere around Feb 2nd or Feb 9th. This is her first time kidding as well as ours!

She is a pygmy doe, bred by a nigerian buck. She is almost 5 years old and he is almost 2 years old.

I have look at various lists of supplies and the last one I looked at was a mile long and though it was thorough, it doesn't say what half the stuff listed is for.

Here a post I found with a ton of information in it. When I read the end of the article where she talks about doe care 6 weeks out, it worries me a little as I am feeding my goats Oat hay and that's all I have. Seems like I read so many different things from different people, and I am unsure of what things to give my animals. I've had most of my goats for about 5 years and all have been very healthy as far as I can tell. They have good housing, clean water,good feed, minerals and baking soda (free choice). I worm them yearly and give them their yearly CDT and other than that, that is all I ever do. When I read all the stuff people give their goats and treat their goats with, I question if I am doing all that I need to. I'm a little nervous and scare, but excited to have babies.

I know what some of these things are for on this list--but can someone explain what the medications are for that I put an asterisk next to?

*Post I found:*

PREPARING FOR KIDDING

Preparing for kidding must begin when does are placed with a buck for breeding. Good management practices -- proper feeding, clean water, top-quality hay, clean and dry pens, proper bedding materials, plenty of space (no over-crowding) -- are part of the larger picture. The information provided below will give you the tools you need for kidding to go as smoothly as possible and with less illness and death.

UNDERSTAND THAT YOU ARE GOING TO HAVE TO SPEND CONSIDERABLE MONEY TO GET SET UP PROPERLY. Also understand that the money you spend to get ready for kidding is going to be FAR LESS than you will incur with dead kids and dead moms because you don't have the medicines and supplies that you need and you won't be able to get them when you need them. Believe me when I tell you that kidding problems will occur in the worst weather on a holiday weekend when vets are unavailable and stores either are closed or don't have the items you need. Even if you reach a vet, very few of them know anything about goats or have any interest in them. Murphy's Law will be in play: if things can get worse, they will. YOU must be prepared in advance.

My website www.tennesseemeatgoats.com has many articles that will be helpful to you. Take the time to read, print, and put them in a binder that you can access when you need help. Feel free to contact me via phone if you need additional information. I am not a vet, but I've been raising meat goats since January 1990, host several meat-goat groups on the Internet (ChevonTalk and GoatER on Yahoogroups), publish MeatGoatMania on Yahoogroups monthly, and offer a one-of-a-kind meat-goat education program called GoatCamp™ on my Texas ranch every October. Details at www.tennesseemeatgoats.com.

Readying the Facilities

Set up kidding/bonding pens for problem births which inevitably occur. Five-foot sections of lightweight tubular metal with 4 inch by 4 inch panels welded to them and a gate in one panel work well. They assemble and break down easily and can be set up in different configurations by removing dividing panels to make larger pens. My kidding/bonding pens were purchased from Northeast Gate Company in Paris, Texas in the late 1990's, and I've been pleased with their durability, functionality, and ease of use.

Provide shelter from wind, rain, and cold weather. (My website www.tennesseemeatgoats.com has a Fencing and Pens article on the Articles page.) Provide a place where kids can sleep away from dams so they don't get injured, smothered, or crushed. A shed with the inside walls lined with railroad ties at ground level and a low narrow bench built above the ties provides a good place for kids to hide. Kids can get off the ground and sleep on the railroad ties, while dams sleep on the bench above or on the ground near them. Do not enclose the underside of the bench; kids will pile on top of each other to keep warm and kids on the bottom will suffocate if a vertical wall blocks their escape.

All birthing/bonding areas should be free of ants and other pests. Ants can eat the eyes, noses, and mucous membrane tissues of newborn kids, causing permanent damage. Before using ant killer or ant bait, read the labels and talk with your vet about products safe for use around goats. I use Amdro ant bait, but ants aren't a serious problem in dry West Texas, so I don't know how extensively Amdro can be used where ants are plentiful.

Clean dry hay should be spread on the ground in advance of using these small pens. Do not use wood shavings in kidding areas. Shavings get into kids' mouths and noses, causing breathing problems, and they also interfere with mom's ability to use her tongue to clean her newborns.During very cold or cold and wet weather, I use reflector heat lamps with bulb guards in areas where kids sleep. Newborns and very young kids have difficulty regulating internal body temperature, but they can usually tolerate cold so long as their tummies are full of milk and they stay dry. In areas of moderate cold such as the southern half of the United States, infrared bulbs are usually too hot and some of them produce a very bright light that can be uncomfortable for both dams' and kids' eyes. Keep electrical cords out of reach to prevent kids from hanging themselves or chewing on them. Water buckets should be shallow and carefully placed to avoid a kid's drowning in them. Make provision during freezing weather to provide warm water to both dam and kids. Learning how to THINK LIKE A GOAT™ will help prevent injuries and deaths. Goats are extremely curious animals.

Do not overcrowd goats. Goats require more space per individual than most other livestock species. Goats are like deer; they stress easily. Since goats have very fast metabolisms, they produce large quantities of urine and feces. Does need space to bond with their kids -- to learn their kids' smells and sounds -- and kids require the same. Overcrowding leads to filth (concentrations of urine, feces, and soiled/wasted hay) and filth leads to disease and death. The two biggest challenges in raising goats in any sort of managed conditions are overcrowding and proper nutrition and the problems which result. This point cannot be over-emphasized.

Purchase in advance of kidding the following essential supplies. Every item has an important useful purpose. Other articles that I've written explain their usages. Items in this first section can be purchase at Jeffers (1-800-533-3377) or in some instances your local WalMart.

Rectal thermometer (digital). Do not fail to buy this item.
70% isopropol alcohol
Triple antibiotic cream
Towels - cloth and paper
Q-tips
Baby aspirin
Ant killer or bait (livestock safe)
Mentholatum
Enemas, baby (Fleets brand or generic)
Milk of Magnesia
Wasp spray
Ear syringe
***Duct tape (What on earth do you need duct tape for?)
Petroleum jelly
Cotton
Bleach
Pepto Bismol
Corn syrup (Karo or generic), jar molasses, and corn oil
OB lube (KY Jelly or generic)
Benadryl liquid
Splint materials and tape
Heating pad (find one that doesn't cut itself off in an hour)
Chewable Vitamin C
Baking soda
Pistol-grip hair dryer
Infant gas relief drops
Sugar
Gentian violet
Camphophenique
Orasol oral anesthetic gel
Paper and pens for record keeping
Weak kid syringe and stomach tube plus extra tubes (do not fail to buy these items)
Bounce Back or ReSorb electrolyte powder in bags or packets
*Procaine penicillin (injectable)
*Sulfadimethoxine 12.5% liquid drinking water solution (DiMethox)
Spectam Scour Halt
7% strong tincture of iodine
*Propylene glycol (available in gallon jug)
*ToDay (cephapirin sodium) mastitis infustion tubes
C&D ANTI-toxin injectable (absolutely essential item)
Gloves, disposable, latex or vinyl
60 cc syringe and 18 gauge needle
1 cc syringes
3 cc syringes (Luer Lock and Luer Slip)
6 cc syringes (Luer Lock and Luer Slip)
22 gauge by 3/4 inch needles (poly hub)
18 gauge needles (poly hub)
Blood stop powder
*Prichard teats
*Toxiban or Universal Animal Antidote Gel (UAA Gel)
Tetanus ANTI-toxin injectable
CD/T toxoid injectable
*Vet wrap
Colostrum replacer (not "supplement")
Reflector heat lamps with bulb guards
150W or 200W clear incandescent light bulbs for heat lamp
Goat milk replacer (not soy based)
*50% dextrose solution
Neomycin sulfate
*Red Cell oral iron supplement
*Betadine surgical scrub and Betadine solution
*CMPK or MFO
De-wormers (see my article Deworming and Vaccination Schedules)
Probiotic paste
Water pails: one or two-gallon pails with handles
SWAT fly control ointment
Toss n Trap fly traps or equivalent
*Fescue balancer mineral (if tall fescue grass grows in your area)
*Fortified Vitamin B Complex - injectable
*Oxytetracycline 200 mg/ml injectable (LA 200 or generic equivalent)
*Cai-Pan peppermint udder cream
*Mastitis infusion tubes - penicillin based
Make an adult goat stomach tube with funnel attached and PVC pipe to thread the tube through; see my article on Stomach Tubing on the Articles page at www.tennesseemeatgoats.com. This is a big must do. Save 16 oz or 20 oz disposable plastic soda-water bottles with screw-on caps. Accumulate a supply of plastic bags such as those that WalMart uses to sack purchases.

From your vet:

*Banamine injectable
*Nuflor injectable
*Excenel RTU injectable
*Lactated Ringers solution
*Dopram V (if still available)
*Oxytocin injectable
*Lutalyze injectable
*Dexamethazone injectable
*Epinephrine injectable
*Vitamin B 12 injectable
*Thiamine (Vit B 1) injectable
*Sulfadimethoxazine with Trimethoprim oral solution or tablets
*Mineral Max or Multi Min injectable
*BoSe injectable
*Gentamycin sulfate injectable
*Gentocin spray
*Baytril 100 injectable*
NOTE: Some of these items may be restricted for use with goats, depending upon the ultimate purpose for which they are being raised. Slaughter-bound goats must be medicated differently from breeding stock, pets, and show goats. Consult your vet for appropriate usage instructions.

I REPEAT: When these items are needed, you won't have time to go get them. So buy them NOW. Designate a refrigerator specifically for goat supplies that require refrigeration. Select cabinets or shelves for medications and supplies that can withstand normal room temperatures.Storing medications in a barn is a good way to ruin them. Products, including medicines, can often be safely used beyond expiration dates if they are stored at recommended temperatures and away from sunlight. Set up a workspace, including sink and running water. Get everything organized and properly labeled. I sticker all medications with date purchased, from whom, and price for future reference and replacement. Be prepared for your first kidding emergency because it will happen.

Preparing Does for Kidding

If abortions have been an issue in the herd, I inject each doe with Oxytetracycline 200 mg/mL before placing them with a buck and every 30 days thereafter until each doe gives birth. There are several articles on www.tennesseemeatgoats.com dealing with abortion diseases and how to handle them.

Six weeks before the first doe is expected to kid, I de-worm all pregnant does with one of the clear dewormers given orally (not the *white* dewormers). Do not use Valbazen; it can induce abortions. At the same time, I boost the does' CD/T vaccinations. Kids are not born with their own working immune systems; the CD/T booster given their dams both protects the pregnant does and passes immunities to the kids which usually last until their immune systems start limited functioning around one month of age. I clean the does' systems of coccidia parasites by dosing them orally individually for five consecutive days with either Albon or its generic equivalent Dimethox 12.5% oral solution. CoRid is another product for this purpose but it inhibits thiamine production, so if you have to use CoRid, also administer Vitamin B 1 (thiamine) injections. An added advantage to using Albon or DiMethox 12.5% is that both contain an antibiotic to handle secondary infections. I also boost the does' pneumonia vaccine and I give them a sub-cutaneous (SQ) injection of Mineral Max or Multi Min. This product is a chelated (slow release) formulation of zinc, manganese, selenium, and copper that are vital to the doe's health and her ability to deliver kids.

If time permits, trim hooves and tail webs. Hoof trimming is a good management practice. A doe with hoof rot or hoof scald cannot forage/browse well enough to produce adequate milk for her kids. A hairy tail web retains feces and placental matter after kidding.

Do not "flush" pregnant does with extra feed immediately prior to kidding. Grain should be very gradually increased during the last month of pregnancy, when fetuses are rapidly growing. Overgraining or improperly graining a heavily-pregnant doe can cause several serious pregnancy diseases(ketosis, pregnancy toxemia, hypocalcemia) that can kill the doe and her unborn kids. Offer grass hay on a free-choice basis. Feed grain preferably before noontime -- especially in very cold weather -- and take up any that has not been consumed in 15 minutes. Do not feed extra grain at night. Instead, make extra hay available. As fetuses grow, the size of the doe's rumen decreases. The doe must have sufficient top-quality grass hay to keep her rumen functioning and still permit some room for grain intake. The long fiber in grass hay stimulates rumen wall contractions which in turn creates body heat to keep the goat warm. Feeding grain properly can be a tricky balancing act in managed herds -- and particularly to heavily pregnant does. When feeding alfalfa or other legume hay, I gradually discontinue feeding it during the last four weeks of gestation. Legume hays (alfalfa and peanut) are high in calcium. As parturition approaches, the doe's body must release calcium from her bones. If she is being fed a high-calcium diet, calcium release from her bones will not happen and Hypocalcemia ("milk fever") can occur. Hypocalcemia is a life threatening illness for the doe and her unborn kids.

Don't forget the importance of exercise to the pregnant doe. Fat does can easily experience dystocia (kidding problems). Don't let heavily-pregnant does become *couch potatoes.* The time for extra grain is when the doe has kids on the ground and is making lots of milk (lactating).

With shelter and sufficient space in place, proper hay and grain and minerals available, supplies at the ready, and does in top condition, let the kidding begin!

Suzanne W. Gasparotto ONION CREEK RANCH 1-12-14

*End of post.*

Reading all of this makes me overwhelmed! I put asterisks by all of the things I have no idea what they are used for.

Thank you for your help! Carol


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## Buck Naked Boers (Oct 15, 2012)

If you've never given your goats bose or copper (didn't see mention of that) that is important. A lot of areas in the US are very low in selenium and copper. Your vet should know if yr area is low.

I thought there was a sticky on this topic????

Yes this post below is overwhelming but I think there is good advice on threads about this.

Thinking duct tape could be for leg issues in a pinch you could use that or any other issues in the barn? Not sure. I have the sticky rolls of vet wrap that comes in rolls at feed stores. It is stuff to support legs. It's used for babies who are born with weakness to help them stand. or really any leg issues on farm. Helpful stuff to have around. We've used it successfully.

Penicillin is for if you go into the doe with help in birthing. Give shot of penicillin to protect doe (think I'm right about that).

Dimethox is albon. Drug used fir treating coccidia.

Prop glycol....don't like it so I don't use it. But have it on hand. In emergency. I think it's used for ketosis??? Others will prob say I'm wrong. Lol

Today is used by the milkers here I think. I've never had prob with mastitis.

Prichard teats are red nipples you buy to go with special bottles for bottle feeding. Having bottles in case you end up needing to use them is a good idea. Never know when you will need bottles. But in emergency you will be prepared.

Don't have a clue about toxiban.

Vet wrap. Talked about it above.

Dextrose is basically a type of sugar solution. For emergencies.

Red cell is for iron deficiency.

Betadine surf scrub is iodine disinfectant soap. Liquid. You can wash with. I don't think I've used it. I use gloves if I go into doe to check. Gloves are important to have. Some people don't like them tho and need to scrub up good before going inside doe.

Cmpk is mineral supplement that comes in a tube. Others can speak on what it's used for. I've never used I don't think.

Fescue balancer-I've never used.

B complex is liquid and is important to have on hand for yr animals when they need a boost. I've used this many times with sick animals or when they just aren't 100%. Important to have.

La 200. I don't use it. I use biomycin 200. Which I believe is the non stinging variety of la 200 (am I right about that guys?). It's a antibiotic. I like it in emergencies. It's over the counter. Good to have on hand. Especially when you have a sick goat at night.

Never used cai-pan

Never used mastitis infusion tubes.

Banamine. Pain med.

Meloxicam is also pain med. as is gabapentin. I've been told gabapentin is safest with really no ill side affects. Both of these meds are oral not injections. I like to give as few injections as possible.

Nuflor antibiotic for upper respiratory infection.

Excenel. Same as nuflor info.

Lactate ringers-iv solution.

Dopram never used.

Oxytocin never used

Lutalyze- for bringing foes into heat I think. I've never used.

Dexamethazone. Never used I don't think?

Epinephrine never used

Vit b 12. I use the b complex above.

Thiamine b-1. Others can talk about that. I've never had to use. I use b complex above.

Sulfa- I don't use

Mineral max. I Don't use

Bose- absolutely important! Selenium. Babies should have shots of this right afterbirth.

Gentamycin-I don't use

Gentocin I don't use

Baytril. I've never used.

Many of the items above I don't use. Hope I got right all of the info above. I think I did!

Hope this helps!

Tami


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## emmaandoscar (Jan 20, 2013)

Thank you Tami,

Any special brands of these items, that you'd recommend? 

There are a gazillion of them and I have no idea what brand is best.

Thanks, Carol


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## Buck Naked Boers (Oct 15, 2012)

You're welcome Carol. Which products specifically are you wanting brands for?

Tami


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## DawnStar (May 19, 2013)

That is a very good list to help you start building up your 'goat first aid kit', but if you have never given injections, or are not familiar with the proper useage/when to use the reccomended pain meds having them on hand is useful, but not an absolute requirement!

You'll find that there are somethings you always use, and alot of things you dont. For kidding the things we use alot are:
Towels (for drying of kids)
Paper Towels (for drying off human hands, and various other uses)
Betadyne (for dipping umbilicals and washing hands prior to any manuvering)
OB gel (for lubricating prior to manipulation)
Flash light (moms love to kid in the dark!)
Nitril Gloves
Fresh Water and Electrolytes for mom ready to go.
Shovel (to remove after birth)
Fresh Bedding (we put this down after we clean up the birthing place)
Cotton Thread (sewing thread) or Dental Floss--for tying off umbilicals.
Other things we have needed on occasion:
Syringe (for getting a weak kid to eat)
Selenium Gel (you can buy this from Jeffers, good for kids that do not stand after a few hours, our friends use this alot for their nubians)
Baby bottle-- yup, just like the one you would use for a human baby. The nipple is the perfect size for mini goats.. and a great tool to have if mom is too tender and dosent want to feed her babies right away. 

Most goats kid well on their own, however since she is a pygmy and this is her first time I would be more prepared to do a kid pull than anything else. If the doe is constantly pushing (you see toes/legs), but the kid is not making any more progress to come out, the babies head could be too big (we have had this happen a few times with FF). The legs/toes poke out, but after 5 good pushes if nothing happens, I usually have to pull the legs forward. If that baby STILL doesnt come out with the next two contractions, or its obvious that its head is stuck (you can usually tell because moms skin is so tight around that babies poor face its tounge sometimes sticks out), I put a dot of OB gel on the side of my hand and gently push the vaginal tissue back over the baby. Sometimes you have to pull the babies legs and push the skin back at the same time. When you pull its not straight out, you need to pull out and down toward the mothers hocks, and work with the contractions.

Once you get through your first couple of births, you'll get the hang of it


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## emmaandoscar (Jan 20, 2013)

I was wondering about what kind of colostrum replacer mainly. I ordered a bunch of stuff from Jeffer's pet. I hope I got the right stuff  There is just so much stuff and different brands of things too. 
This is what I ordered from Jeffer's:

Goat Electrolyte, 16 oz.
CAG2	1	Item Total Price: $5.99

2 lb Goat YMCP
TXAJ	1	Item Total Price: $13.14

1½ lb Kid Restart
TXAE	1	Item Total Price: $12.99

Sav-A-Lam & Kid Colostrum Replacer, 
(6) 2 oz pouches
T5AC	1	Item Total Price: $18.99

Pritchard Teat Nipple, each
M6P1	2	Item Total Price: $5.58

320 grams Probios Dispersible Powder
PNPA	1	Item Total Price: $10.15

First Arrival® Lamb & Kid Paste, 15 g (15 cc) tube
A2F6	1	Item Total Price: $8.62

Essential 3 + T, 10 dose (CD&T) - 10 Dose
C8TC	1	Item Total Price: $5.99

Tetanus Antitoxin, 1500 unit vial - 1,500 Units
G5TA	3	Item Total Price: $11.85

Ammonium Chloride, 2.5 lb
AXAN	1	Item Total Price: $9.49

Copasure 2 gram for Lambs & Kids, (24 capsules)
MGCA	1	Item Total Price: $24.95

Small Bolus Gun
STBS	1	Item Total Price: $44.95

Goats Prefer Probiotic Plus Paste, 80 cc
VPG7	5	Item Total Price: $47.45

Quart Goat and Sheep Nutri-Drench
B8NF	1	Item Total Price: $29.99

Betadine Surgical Scrub, 16 oz
P7B4	2	Item Total Price: $31.98

Wound-Kote, 5 oz aerosol
FAD5	2	Item Total Price: $11.88

Terramycin Ophthalmic Ointment, 1/8 oz tube
N2J1	1	Item Total Price: $14.95

UAA Gel (Universal Antidote Gel)
LEAA	1	Item Total Price: $14.95

Quart Red Cell® Horse Supplement for Energy and Stamina
H3R1	1	Item Total Price: $7.75

3 mL w/ 22 ga x 3/4" (100 count) - Jeffers L.L. Syringe/Needle Combo
XQCY	1	Item Total Price: $13.14

18 ga x 1" - Jeffers Poly Hub Needle
XQAM	10	Item Total Price: $1.50

22 ga x 3/4" - Jeffers Poly Hub Needle
XQC1	10	Item Total Price: $1.50

3 mL - Jeffers L.L. Syringe
XQCL	10	Item Total Price: $2.00

4" VetRap Bandage by 3M
T2T6	3	Item Total Price: $5.67

2" Veterinary Elastic Adhesive Tape, each
T2VB	1	Item Total Price: $3.69

4" VetRap Bandage by 3M
T2V2	3	Item Total Price: $5.67
Subtotal Price	$364.81
Shipping Price	$38.95
Tax Price	$0.00
Total	$403.76

I also ordered a bunch of stuff from amazon...

Items Ordered	
1 of: GoodSense Milk of Magnesia Saline Laxative, Original, 12 Fluid Ounce
1 of: PREMIUM Nasal Aspirator for Baby Mucus Suction - BPA-Free Bulb Syringe, 
1 of: FoodSaver FSFRSH0051 FreshSaver Handheld Vacuum Sealing System, White
1 of: Conair Vagabond Compact 1600 Watt Folding Handle Hair Dryer; Blue
1 of: Nice 'N Clean Baby Wipes Soft-Pack with Aloe - Unscented, Hypoallergenic, Pack/80 Wipes
1 of: Sunbeam 732-500 King Size Heating Pad with UltraHeatTechnology, Britton, Aldora
1 of: Mylicon Infant Drops Anti-Gas Relief Dye Free formula, 1.0 Fluid Ounce
2 of: EXELint 30 ml (1 oz) Syringe, Disposable Syringes Sterile Single Pack, 30 ml to 35 ml Medical Grade Catheter Tip Syringe (1 Pack)
1 of: Bayer Chewable Aspirin Low Dose 81mg Orange Flavor (81 mg), 108-Count Tablets
2 of: L'eggs Women's Brown Sugar Ultra Sheer Panty Hose, Coffee, Medium/Tall

I still have a few other things to get, including some milk replacer and
I am making an automatic milker out of the rechargeable food saver vacuum sealer. I already have a cabinet full of supplies that I had previously bought. I thinkI have almost everything on the list with the exception of some vaccines, that I'll need to get from my vet, since you can't buy it on line. My vet lives almost next door, so luckily, he said, he'll be in the area and available when my does kid. This makes me feel really good, and he also said he'll have the vaccines ready for the little babies and whatever the mama's might need. I am really nervous!!! What brand of colostrum replacer do you use? I hope the stuff I ordered is good. Hoping I won't need it, but just want to have everything I'll need in case I need it 
Thank you so much for your help. Carol


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## emmaandoscar (Jan 20, 2013)

Thank you Dawn Star!!!

I am very nervous, but my vet said he should be available when my doe kids and I am soooo thankful! I think I'm prepared now! I have been shopping for a ton of stuff on that list. I think I'm set except for a few vaccines. I still have to get a bag of milk replacer. Hoping I won't need it. I really want the mama to nurse her babies. But I'm prepared to milk them and bottle feed the babies just in case and also want to have replacer in case there ends up being more than two babies and mama doesn't have enough milk. She is getting huge. Vet said it's common for first time mama to have just one, but usually they have two. I am hoping there is no more than two! I have bottle fed babies before. My little buck and another little doe and it was the BEST THING EVER! They're both the sweetest most loving little things even all grown up, they are just so sweet. I loved bottle feeding those babies. It was the highlight of my life for 4 months. I can't wait to have little kids running around again! I just want everything to go smooth for my first time! I love my goats and all my other critters so much. Thank you for your reply, your list was helpful and your description of pulling, if needed is very helpful as well.  Have a great day! Carol


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## catharina (Mar 17, 2016)

One thing that I've found that I really like for kidding is some sort of thick, heavy woven 100% wool fabric--an old wool blanket or a winter coat from the thrift store, with the lining cut out. It's really much nicer than a towel to spread out behind the doe when the kid is being born because you know how wool is so much drier feeling than cotton when it's wet, & it also doesn't get all scrunched up as easily. Another smaller piece to set the kid on is nice too, while you're drying them or catching the 2nd kid. Another piece to lay over the kid can keep it warm too. Still need lots of towels though--I kind of like closer to hand towel than bath towel size--just my personal preference, maybe because my goats aren't too big.


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## emmaandoscar (Jan 20, 2013)

Thank you catharina! I will have to go thriftin' and pick up some. 
That makes great sense!
Have a great day! Carol


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## scubacoz22 (Nov 27, 2013)

One thing you didn't talk about is food for the doe, she should have high protein grain, I buy the goat milking grain but also add 20% deer grain to increase the protein. Don't forget to get some Alfalfa hay which the goats love and it is also high in protein. I always give my pregnant does alfalfa hay with their regular hay. After she kids you should give her some black strap molasses mixed in warm water. It will give her energy and she loves the taste of it. Get the gloves that go past your elbow just in case you need to go in to retrieve the kid.


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## GoatCrazy01 (Feb 14, 2016)

Yes, get some of the shoulder length gloves. And you'll definitely use lots of old towels/sheets/blankets. One thing that I find very useful to deliver kids on are puppy pads. They work excellent and after she has the kid you can just sort of slide it over in front of her so that she can clean it off  Happy kidding!


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## emmaandoscar (Jan 20, 2013)

The puppy pads seem like a great idea. My goats are on oat hay and alfalfa. I feed them sweet feed (COB)as a treat. Thank you!


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