# Infected Hoofs??



## Crickhollow (Jan 29, 2014)

Today I got my first pair of hoof trimmers to trim my goats feet. They haven't been trimmed in a while, and they're really overgrown. I watched several videos on how to trim hooves, and my goats feet just don't look right. 
In-between the toes, its kind of slimy and it doesn't smell right. Do my goats have foot rot?!? Can anyone help me?

I'm just going to keep trimming gradually till I get their feet into control.


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## SalteyLove (Jun 18, 2011)

Sounds like Hoof Scald! I know there are several options for treatment. I apply about 1mL of LA-200 (cow antibiotic) directly between the toes and it clears it up very quickly. I believe there are more specialized spray products out there someone else can tell you. Get it treated quickly or it will turn in to hoof rot. It IS transferable to other goats and thrives in mucky/wet conditions.


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## SalteyLove (Jun 18, 2011)

p.s. the trimming will help with this because they won't trap moisture as easily and will be standing correctly - so keep that up. Just know that the hoof scald is painful to them so they may be quite reluctant for you to do the trimming.


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## Crickhollow (Jan 29, 2014)

Thanks so much!

How do you apply the antibiotic, just spray it on?


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## MsScamp (Feb 1, 2010)

Crickhollow said:


> In-between the toes, its kind of slimy and it doesn't smell right. Do my goats have foot rot?!? Can anyone help me?


I could be wrong, but I suspect you're dealing with foot rot not scald. Foot rot stinks, but I don't think foot scald does. I think you need Kopper Tox for foot rot. Again, I could be wrong. Hopefully someone with more experience will chime in pretty soon.


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## janeen128 (Dec 31, 2012)

Yep, hoof rot stinks. I had a small case of it last year, and between Koppertox, hoof and heal, and LA 200 it was cleared up in no time at all;-)


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## SalteyLove (Jun 18, 2011)

KopperTox! That is the product I couldn't think of. I was taught that the white slime that stinks between the toes is hoof scald that precedes hoof rot but that was by a local breeder so could be wrong! Either way - get some LA 200 on there. I draw it out of the bottle with needle & syringe, then just remove the needle, hold the hoof upside down like when trimming and squirt in between the toes! Don't jam the syringe in there - it's very sensitive.


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## Crickhollow (Jan 29, 2014)

At the stockyard, they told me that ThrushXX was less expensive then KopperTox, and that would clean it up.


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## FullMoonFarm-Ky (Jan 15, 2014)

Is hoof scald contagious too, or just rot? Or vice versa?

Also, if you have a case of this, and if it is painful on the goat, is it best to treat and allow to heal before trimming their feet? Or is trimming still necessary for the healing process since that was what allowed the moisture in the first place?


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## Crickhollow (Jan 29, 2014)

Just what I was wondering.


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## Crickhollow (Jan 29, 2014)

Today I went to the stockyard and bought what they recommended, ThrushXX. I trimmed the goats' hooves a little (some were worse than others) and I applied the medicine to their feet. It was BRIGHT GREEN!

I'll go back and trim more later. I really hope this stuff clears it up! Tomorrow during the day I'll try to post a picture.


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## MsScamp (Feb 1, 2010)

I don't think ThrushXX will be effective against foot rot because they are caused by two different things. Thrush is usually a fungal infection, whereas foot rot is caused by bacterial invasion.


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## MsScamp (Feb 1, 2010)

FullMoonFarm-Ky said:


> Is hoof scald contagious too, or just rot? Or vice versa?
> 
> Also, if you have a case of this, and if it is painful on the goat, is it best to treat and allow to heal before trimming their feet? Or is trimming still necessary for the healing process since that was what allowed the moisture in the first place?


I believe just the foot rot is contagious, but I could be wrong on that. It is best to trim their feet to remove the decay, and keep the foot open to the kopper tox. Trimming also helps get the feet back in shape and helps keep further bacteria out.

ETA - I am wrong - both foot rot and foot scald are contagious.


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## janeen128 (Dec 31, 2012)

GoatCrazy said:


> I don't think ThrushXX will be effective against foot rot because they are caused by two different things. Thrush is usually a fungal infection, whereas foot rot is caused by bacterial invasion.


I'm guessing GoatCrazy is correct on this... My friend tried the Thrushxx without success, I had to ask her to make sure that is what she tried, then she borrowed the koppertox from me and it healed up pretty quickly. Maybe you will get a different result, I hope so.


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## Hootenannyshollow (Jan 3, 2014)

I recently got a goat from someone & when I got her home I looked at her feet & it looked like her hooves had never been trimmed. When I started trimming, I noticed one hoof had a horrible smell. I mixed up water with bleach in a spray bottle & cleaned & trimmed the hoof down as far as I could without going into the pink. I sprayed & brushed to clean while trimming. After that I dried it off with a paper towel & squirted 2cc of Biomycin from a syringe (no needle) directly on the hoof & just let it run over the hoof & then brushed it in a little. Checked on it the next day & the smell was gone. Every week I go out & put her on the stand & clean, trim a little & spray with the bleach water (past 3 weeks). Now she's about to kid so I have to delay it for a while, but will be back on it asap. You have to trim all the rot off a little at a time to get the hoof back in good condition. I also copper bolused & I'm hoping that helps also. You can use LA200 instead of BioMycin; that's just what I had in stock.

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## Crickhollow (Jan 29, 2014)

Would Kopper Tox work the same way?


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## Hootenannyshollow (Jan 3, 2014)

Crickhollow said:


> Would Kopper Tox work the same way?


I've never used Kopper Tox so I'm not sure if that would work. You could read the label & it should state if it's used for hoof rot; which is what I believe you're dealing with. I would use an antibiotic to treat an bacterial infection. The antibiotic directly on the infected hoof & trimming away the rotten part of the hoof (little at a time) is what worked for me. It had greatly improved by the next day.

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## MsScamp (Feb 1, 2010)

Here is a link on how to treat foot rot and foot scald. I hope it helps! :smile:

http://www.tennesseemeatgoats.com/articles2/hoofrot,hoofscald06.html


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## mjs500doo (Nov 24, 2012)

With both foot rot and foot scald, unless you've just bought a goat, always keep the environment in mind too. Such as, don't throw a foot scald or rot back into mud. With all freshly bought goats, always trim feet within the first day or two of quarantine and treat as necessary. They can and will bring fungus and/or bacteria into the environment. 


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## Crickhollow (Jan 29, 2014)

Another thing--the heel of the hoof is really hard to cut. It's not hard, but sort of rubbery, and it's hard for the trimmers to cut it. Is this normal?


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## Hootenannyshollow (Jan 3, 2014)

Crickhollow said:


> Another thing--the heel of the hoof is really hard to cut. It's not hard, but sort of rubbery, and it's hard for the trimmers to cut it. Is this normal?


Yup. Mine is like that too. Just trimming it down a little at a time, so I won't cut too deep. My girl's were so bad, the heel had started to curl down towards the toe, which is where all the yuck was collecting. I noticed spraying it with the bleach water helped to soften it up some to make it easier to trim. Some folks told be to give her a foot bath... ha! Tried that & she kicked it all over everywhere; including me. So that's why I use a spray bottle instead of the foot bath.

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## mjs500doo (Nov 24, 2012)

Heel is a shock absorber. It's always rubbery  


Animals make such personable friends, they pass no criticisms, offer their ears through happiness and sorrows, and yet possess such undying devotion, even whilst they know all our secrets.


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## janeen128 (Dec 31, 2012)

Yes. That is why I use and electric hoof knife with the yellow sanding attachment.


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## canyontrailgoats (Jan 4, 2014)

Apple cider vinegar was successful for me in the past. I either soak the feet in a bucket or spray the hoof, let it soak in, and repeat.
It helps because bacteria can't grow in an acidic environment, so it reduces the number of germs. And you can use pasteurized, because it's the acidity that does the job.


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## Crickhollow (Jan 29, 2014)

Quick update: I've been working on Snowflake's front right hoof, just trimming it down and spraying lots of bleach water. She doesn't like the bleach water, but she patiently watches as I trim, chewing her cud and breathing softly in my ear.

It's not looking too good. There's black stuff that looks kind of like dirt, and white powdery stuff. This is foot rot, right? I just came in to get the camera and will post a picture later. Thanks for all your help!


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## Crickhollow (Jan 29, 2014)

I worked on Snowflake's two front hooves. I trimmed them down more, and I sprayed a lot with bleach water. The right one seems worse than the left one, but I'm not sure. Here are some pictures.

This is the right hoof.








































This is the left one.


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## mjs500doo (Nov 24, 2012)

You really need to get that extra hoof off. Trim so the feet are flush. They look soft, anywhere you can keep her inside on a bedding pack? I would like to see pics of the feet cleaned up a bit more to really see the extent of damage. You may consider making her a set of boots with your sewing machine to further aid them in the hardening process if she doesn't have a dry pen to stay in. I found an old scuba suit on CL and used that for my boots. 

Are they tender to her? Squeeze different parts and watch her eyes. If you get a reaction, do it again to make sure it's really a reaction. Lol sometimes they "fake". Any separation on the hoof wall? 


Animals make such personable friends, they pass no criticisms, offer their ears through happiness and sorrows, and yet possess such undying devotion, even whilst they know all our secrets.


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## Hootenannyshollow (Jan 3, 2014)

janeen128 said:


> Yes. That is why I use and electric hoof knife with the yellow sanding attachment.


Would like to learn more about this device. Never heard of it. Where'd you get it?

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## Crickhollow (Jan 29, 2014)

mjs500doo said:


> You really need to get that extra hoof off. Trim so the feet are flush. They look soft, anywhere you can keep her inside on a bedding pack? I would like to see pics of the feet cleaned up a bit more to really see the extent of damage. You may consider making her a set of boots with your sewing machine to further aid them in the hardening process if she doesn't have a dry pen to stay in. I found an old scuba suit on CL and used that for my boots.


How much needs to come off? Till they're flush with what?

Can I just make boots out of regular old cloth? What is a bedding pack, is it just like a dog pillow?

I let them out of the pen, and now they're on my porch eating hay!


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## Hootenannyshollow (Jan 3, 2014)

Crickhollow said:


> I worked on Snowflake's two front hooves. I trimmed them down more, and I sprayed a lot with bleach water. The right one seems worse than the left one, but I'm not sure. Here are some pictures.
> 
> This is the right hoof.
> View attachment 55132
> ...


Bless it! That doesn't look good, but you can get her back in good shape. It'll take time & lot's of attention & doctoring, but you can do it. I would clean it very very good & squirt antibiotic all over & in it; for a few days & continue spraying with the bleach water as often as you can & then dry them good. Do all you can to keep her on dry ground to help her hooves heel some; maybe keep her in a small area with a thick covering of straw over the ground. They need to be kept dry & need air also. It may take weeks or months, but keep treating & trimming & keeping the hooves dry and you can get them back in pretty good shape.

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## Crickhollow (Jan 29, 2014)

What antibiotic do you recommend? I have iodine.

I had sprayed off her hooves with bleach water, but when I set them down to pick up the camera, a lot of debris stuck on. She hates the bleach water, though! Poor thing!:sad:


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## NyGoatMom (Jan 26, 2013)

Ooohhh boy....those feet need work! Do you have anyone in the area that knows goats that might be able to show you? If not, it may not be a bad idea to get a farrier out to get them straightened out....if you choose to do it, then you need to get them flush on the bottom and get rid of all that extra...there are great videos online on youtube if you look...good luck, I agree with using antibiotics on the feet and keeping them clean and dry,dry,dry!!
I would use biomycin.Get some (2cc or so) in a syringe and squirt it onto a cleaned hoof being sure to get in between the hooves too.


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## mjs500doo (Nov 24, 2012)

The hoof needs to be flush with the sole. The flat part in the middle. The outer edges are wall, those need to come off. The brown at the heel needs to be trimmed flush with the flat sole as well. They need a nice flat solid sole to walk on.


Animals make such personable friends, they pass no criticisms, offer their ears through happiness and sorrows, and yet possess such undying devotion, even whilst they know all our secrets.


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## OakHollowRanch (Jun 6, 2013)

Poor girl! Did you buy her that way? That doesn't look good at all, but I hope all of the great advice here will help you heal her up in no time!


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## Hootenannyshollow (Jan 3, 2014)

Crickhollow said:


> What antibiotic do you recommend? I have iodine.
> 
> I had sprayed off her hooves with bleach water, but when I set them down to pick up the camera, a lot of debris stuck on. She hates the bleach water, though! Poor thing!:sad:


I don't think iodine is gonna do it. You can get LA200 at The Tractor Supply. They offer several different size bottles. I used Bio-Mycin, which is basically the same but without the sting but I had to order that from Jeffer's. She's not gonna like you for a while because you're going to have to work on her pretty often & her hooves are probably hurting already & may have some fever in them, but it has to be taken care of before it gets any worse. Just give her treats after and lots of attention & love after you work on her. Make yourself comfy too while working or your back will be killing you.

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## Crickhollow (Jan 29, 2014)

OakHollowRanch said:


> Poor girl! Did you buy her that way? That doesn't look good at all, but I hope all of the great advice here will help you heal her up in no time!


I got her hooves done by a farrier last fall. I've been busy, and only recently realized they needed trimming. Her pen has gotten muddy lately, and I guess that had something to do with it.


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## Crickhollow (Jan 29, 2014)

I looked at bio-mycin and la-200. I want to get bio-mycin because of the sting factor, but all they have in stock is the 500 mL bottle, and I can't afford that. I guess I'll try the LA-200.


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## Hootenannyshollow (Jan 3, 2014)

Crickhollow said:


> I got her hooves done by a farrier last fall. I've been busy, and only recently realized they needed trimming. Her pen has gotten muddy lately, and I guess that had something to do with it.


Yup. Muddy damp conditions are just a breeding ground for hoof rot, especially if they have those little pockets along the hoof wall. Don't be too hard on yourself, just pick up & move forward. Watch videos on You Tube on trimming. Once she's in good shape again, you'll be proud that you helped her through it & she will love you for it.

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## Hootenannyshollow (Jan 3, 2014)

Hootenannyshollow said:


> Yup. Muddy damp conditions are just a breeding ground for hoof rot, especially if they have those little pockets along the hoof wall. Don't be too hard on yourself, just pick up & move forward. Watch videos on You Tube on trimming. Once she's in good shape again, you'll be proud that you helped her through it & she will love you for it.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I927 using Goat Forum mobile app


Oh one more thing, be sure you tools & area are clean & steril after trimming hoof rot. I would clean up all the trimmings & not leave them laying around because of the infection. Your others could get into it.

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## Crickhollow (Jan 29, 2014)

I only have one other goat, and she has a little of it too, I think. How would I clean up all the trimmings? They're teeny tiny.


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## NyGoatMom (Jan 26, 2013)

Yeah, I was going to say...I bleach my trimmers between goats and after using because I heard it can be transferred.


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## janeen128 (Dec 31, 2012)

Hootenannyshollow said:


> Would like to learn more about this device. Never heard of it. Where'd you get it?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I927 using Goat Forum mobile app











The yellow attachment that I use isn't pictured, but if you tell them you are using it for goats them they will automatically send it to you.


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## Hootenannyshollow (Jan 3, 2014)

Crickhollow said:


> I looked at bio-mycin and la-200. I want to get bio-mycin because of the sting factor, but all they have in stock is the 500 mL bottle, and I can't afford that. I guess I'll try the LA-200.


I'm not sure, but the sting in LA200 may be if it's injected... maybe???

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## janeen128 (Dec 31, 2012)

I used LA 200 topically. It didn't seem to bother them.


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## Crickhollow (Jan 29, 2014)

Yes, today I started bleaching the trimmers in-between goats. I hadn't done it before, though.

I just went out and trimmed Snowflake's front hooves until it was to dark to see. She didn't like it when I tried to trim the inside wall. I think my trimmers are dull. I finally got some of the outside wall level with the sole. It was so exciting to see the healthy parts of the hoof! Then I sprayed them with bleach water and dried them with a rag. Then I sprayed bleach water on the spot where I had been working. Things are looking a little brighter now!

It was too dark to see Sugar's hooves very much, but I sprayed and dried them too.

Also, I think I'll get a new pair of hoof trimmers. I have these:

http://www.amazon.com/Zenport-Z116-...&qid=1391297804&sr=8-2&keywords=hoof+trimmers

I just got them, but they're really hard to trim with, and I think they're dull. I think I will try these trimmers:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200430702826?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p398


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## Hootenannyshollow (Jan 3, 2014)

janeen128 said:


> View attachment 55163
> 
> 
> The yellow attachment that I use isn't pictured, but if you tell them you are using it for goats them they will automatically send it to you.


I could not pay $299.00 for it for just a handfull of goats. It's very nice though. I have used a small dremmil tool before with a little sander on it to just smooth the rough edges. I worried though that it might be making the hoof too hot so I wouldn't leave it there for very long. I have little NDs, so I don't think this would work well on their tiny hooves. Does this tool heat the hoof up?
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## janeen128 (Dec 31, 2012)

Hootenannyshollow said:


> I could not pay $299.00 for it for just a handfull of goats. It's very nice though. I have used a small dremmil tool before with a little sander on it to just smooth the rough edges. I worried though that it might be making the hoof too hot so I wouldn't leave it there for very long. I have little NDs, so I don't think this would work well on their tiny hooves. Does this tool heat the hoof up?
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I927 using Goat Forum mobile app


I forgot about the price. I got money as a Christmas gift last year, and well that's what I got. I got it on special like $50.00 off. It doesn't heat up either, I love mine.


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## IrishRoots (Jan 7, 2013)

Ouch! Those look painful! Here are some examples of a flush trimmed hoof 














Irish Roots Acres 
Nigerian Dwarf Goats


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## Crickhollow (Jan 29, 2014)

Thanks for those examples! That helps a lot!


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## IrishRoots (Jan 7, 2013)

No problem! They sure Helped me!


Irish Roots Acres 
Nigerian Dwarf Goats


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## Crickhollow (Jan 29, 2014)

Today I trimmed Snowflake's hooves a lot more, including her back ones this time.

Starting pic of her front left hoof.








Trimming the hoof








Finished for today--It looks worse in the pic than it really is








Starting with front left, I don't think I got a finished pic








Front feet--the green is from the ThrushXX I put on there Friday; I'm going to clip the hair so I can see the hooves better








Working on the back feet, these seem pretty healthy, just really overgrown and dirty
























I just ordered a better pair of trimmers; these are so blunt I can hardly cut anything!


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## Darlaj (Dec 10, 2013)

IrishRoots said:


> Ouch! Those look painful! Here are some examples of a flush trimmed hoof
> View attachment 55209
> View attachment 55210
> 
> ...


That's seems like a lot off toe I have always been too chicken to take that much! Should I just go for it?


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## NyGoatMom (Jan 26, 2013)

Getting better  I use a rasp on the entire bottom of the hoof after the trimmer so make it all flush...but looks like you are getting the idea from the looks of the first hoof!


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## janeen128 (Dec 31, 2012)

Yep, looks like it's better;-)


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## CritterCarnival (Sep 18, 2013)

I have started using my hoof knife instead. I can never seem to get a good angle to get a nice clean cut with the cutters. 

The trick is to keep your hoof knife very sharp and just pare off thin slices at a time, like taking the peel off of an apple. 

All of mine came with very poor hooves and I've been slowly working on everybody every few days, a bit at a time. They get antsy after a few minutes on the stand, so I"m only doing short trim sessions at a time.


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## Hootenannyshollow (Jan 3, 2014)

It's getting there. 

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## mjs500doo (Nov 24, 2012)

Much better!


Animals make such personable friends, they pass no criticisms, offer their ears through happiness and sorrows, and yet possess such undying devotion, even whilst they know all our secrets.


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## Crickhollow (Jan 29, 2014)

I haven't really worked on these hooves over the past few days, but my new hoof trimmers came today. They work like a dream! My other ones just would not cut! I cut down until I could see the pink on the toes. One bled just a teeny bit, so I put some iodine on it. 

They're all looking a lot better. The front right hoof still has a pocket between the hoof wall and the sole. That's where I found black stuff and a little white powdery stuff. 

The front hooves are a lot bigger than the back ones. They seem thicker and larger. The back ones are smaller and thinner. Is this normal?


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## mjs500doo (Nov 24, 2012)

It can be. Depends on the goat. I had one doe who had hooves like such, after pushing minerals & vitamins with no change, I did a little digging. This was genetic. 


Animals make such personable friends, they pass no criticisms, offer their ears through happiness and sorrows, and yet possess such undying devotion, even whilst they know all our secrets.


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## CritterCarnival (Sep 18, 2013)

Crickhollow said:


> <snip> The front right hoof still has a pocket between the hoof wall and the sole. That's where I found black stuff and a little white powdery stuff. <snip>


Be sure to scrub well to get all the gunk out. I like to trim away the outside wall over the opening of the pocket. I trim slowly until the hole is well opened up to get it scrubbed out good, and to let in air to help it heal...those goo bugs hate being exposed to air. :evil:

Sometimes the last little bit can be stubborn to clear up.

Over all, looking much better! :thumbup:


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## Crickhollow (Jan 29, 2014)

Today I trimmed a little more. I mostly trimmed Sugar this time. It was getting dark when I started on Snowflake, but I could tell the hooves were tons better! I think the infection's almost completely gone!  I got a few pictures but I'll have to put them up when I have more time.

Snowflake's back hooves were really hard to trim! They didn't trim like the other hooves did! Is this normal?

I think what I had was mostly hoof scald and not hoof rot. I just read that hoof rot is more on the hoof itself, and hoof scald is between the toes.

I'll post the pictures when I get a chance!


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## ksalvagno (Oct 6, 2009)

Glad their feet are improving.


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## ptgoats45 (Nov 28, 2011)

Where she has pockets you will want to trim the wall away so there is no longer a pocket. Just stick one side of the trimmers down in the hole and trim along the edges as far around it as you can. Getting rid of the pocket eliminates continually getting dirt in there and having it continue to rot and make the hole deeper. Her walls will eventually grow back and be good and healthy.


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## Crickhollow (Jan 29, 2014)

ptgoats45 said:


> Where she has pockets you will want to trim the wall away so there is no longer a pocket. Just stick one side of the trimmers down in the hole and trim along the edges as far around it as you can. Getting rid of the pocket eliminates continually getting dirt in there and having it continue to rot and make the hole deeper. Her walls will eventually grow back and be good and healthy.


 That sounds great. I'll do that! Thanks!


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## ElectricHoofKnife (Mar 7, 2014)

Hello - Beginning March 24th we will be selling an Electric Hoof Knife set specifically designed for goats and sheep that only costs $254.95. It's also our new tool which has internal and external upgrades. As it's specifically designed for trimming, it's a lot easier to use than other power tools that people have just re-purposed for trimming. The discs that come in the goat and sheep set are also covered in a tungsten carbide grit which makes them much more durable for trimming and they don't heat up.

I'd be happy to answer any questions if anyone is still interested in looking into power tools for trimming. You can also visit our website at www.ElectricHoofKnife.com (though the goat's section is not available yet but will be later today or early next week).


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## Goats Rock (Jun 20, 2011)

ElectricHoofKnife said:


> Hello - Beginning March 24th we will be selling an Electric Hoof Knife set specifically designed for goats and sheep that only costs $254.95. It's also our new tool which has internal and external upgrades. As it's specifically designed for trimming, it's a lot easier to use than other power tools that people have just re-purposed for trimming. The discs that come in the goat and sheep set are also covered in a tungsten carbide grit which makes them much more durable for trimming and they don't heat up.
> 
> I'd be happy to answer any questions if anyone is still interested in looking into power tools for trimming. You can also visit our website at www.ElectricHoofKnife.com (though the goat's section is not available yet but will be later today or early next week).


You should start your own Thread. That way it won't get buried under someone else's post! Your trimmer sounds interesting!


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## janeen128 (Dec 31, 2012)

ElectricHoofKnife said:


> Hello - Beginning March 24th we will be selling an Electric Hoof Knife set specifically designed for goats and sheep that only costs $254.95. It's also our new tool which has internal and external upgrades. As it's specifically designed for trimming, it's a lot easier to use than other power tools that people have just re-purposed for trimming. The discs that come in the goat and sheep set are also covered in a tungsten carbide grit which makes them much more durable for trimming and they don't heat up.
> 
> I'd be happy to answer any questions if anyone is still interested in looking into power tools for trimming. You can also visit our website at www.ElectricHoofKnife.com (though the goat's section is not available yet but will be later today or early next week).


Just an FYI - I have one and love it


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