# Nubian Starter Herd



## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

I have 3 Nubians, I need to know if they look good or not but I'm not a good enough judge on these types of things. This is my 6 month old buckling, Soda.








This is my 5 month old doe, Sister.







And lastly, my possibly bred year old doe, Laurel.


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

If you have any tips please add them to your comment. I'd like to know what y'all feed including minerals and other things... Just trying to keep my herd healthy.


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## ksalvagno (Oct 6, 2009)

Did you just get them?


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

Less than a month ago yes.


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## lottsagoats1 (Apr 12, 2014)

They look kind of small for their age, more like Mini Nubians. Even Sisters horns look small for a yearling.

It may be the photo, but I see reddish tinges in their hair. Maybe they could use a round of copper boluses.

What are you using for loose minerals? The only kind I can get are the Sweetlix meat goat minerals, but they seem to be doing ok for my herd. I have town water, which is high in iron and calcium and tends to block other minerals.


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## deerbunnyfarm (Dec 14, 2015)

Sister's horns do look very small to be a yearling.. My five month old has horns the same size and she was stunted and in bad shape before I got her so I would be wary and keep her away from Soda. 

They don't look like they're in horrible shape but I agree on the copper boluses. They all have steep rumps, weak chines, poor toplines, could use more length, but legs look good from what I can tell and they have okay brisket. What I would do is wether Soda and find a nice buck that will be an improvement to the does, then Soda and him can live together and be buddies.


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## deerbunnyfarm (Dec 14, 2015)

I feed Manna Pro minerals mixed with kelp, and a 16% dairy goat pellet with BOSS and alfalfa pellets. I have one I'm trying to get weight on so she's also getting calf manna. Then they forage and have access to Bermuda mix hay. I add acv to their water as well, just a tiny glug.


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## mommal (May 18, 2016)

I agree that they look younger. I have a yearling Mini Nubian that looks older and horns are longer than Sister. Could they have been Fall kids?

I also agree that Soda isn't really going to make an improvement to the girls. Best to find a better buck if you can. They don't look unhealthy to me, though.


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## HappyCaliGoats (Mar 19, 2014)

I agree, soda doesn't look like a breeder buck and the girls look younger than they are supposed to be. The girls look ok but breeding them to soda will produce poor toplines and steep rumps. Get them on some good minerals and alfalfa and find a nice buck, keep soda as a wether


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

Sorry, I wrote that wrong. She was just weaned shes 4-5 months old.


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

I was just thinking about soda today... He doesn't look all that great I know. But the red in the does is their color they were born like that. Sorry I messed up the dates. Sister is 4-5 months and the yearling is Laurel.


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## mommal (May 18, 2016)

AintGotNoCreekRanch said:


> Sorry, I wrote that wrong. She was just weaned shes 4-5 months old.


Well, she looks about right for that, then. Pretty girl.


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

mommal said:


> Well, she looks about right for that, then. Pretty girl.


Thanks


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## deerbunnyfarm (Dec 14, 2015)

So Laurel is a year old and possibly bred or two years old?


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)




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## deerbunnyfarm (Dec 14, 2015)

Uh oh, yikes, you gotta get Soda out of there.


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

deerbunnyfarm said:


> So Laurel is a year old and possibly bred or two years old?


Laurel is a year old and possibly bred yes.



deerbunnyfarm said:


> Uh oh, yikes, you gotta get Soda out of there.


Yeah I know. Paid 350 for all of them.


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## nicolemackenzie (Dec 27, 2014)

AintGotNoCreekRanch said:


> I was just thinking about soda today... He doesn't look all that great I know. But the red in the does is their color they were born like that. Sorry I messed up the dates. Sister is 4-5 months and the yearling is Laurel.


That makes more sense.

I agree with the previous recommendations and comments on conformation. Cool colors.

Are any of them registered?


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## deerbunnyfarm (Dec 14, 2015)

No, I mean like, go out there right now and move Soda to a place where he can't breed them. Sister is nowhere near old enough to be with a buck.


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

here is Laurel right now
I agree soda does need to go.


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

nicolemackenzie said:


> That makes more sense.
> 
> I agree with the previous recommendations and comments on conformation. Cool colors.
> 
> Are any of them registered?


The guy registered soda but I didn't pay for the papers BC I didn't know if I wanted to keep him


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

deerbunnyfarm said:


> No, I mean like, go out there right now and move Soda to a place where he can't breed them. Sister is nowhere near old enough to be with a buck.


I'm out here... He's already moved. That picture was just before that. And sister is never with either of them except for right now cause I'm getting pictures. She's with my little pygmies.


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

Okay. Soda is out. The girls... What can be done for them?


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## deerbunnyfarm (Dec 14, 2015)

It only takes a second so watch her closely... Might want to pull blood in a month and have her tested so you know if you need to lute or not. 

Other than that copper bolus and make sure their diet is good.


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

Okay.


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

What do y'all not like about soda so I don't get one like that


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## deerbunnyfarm (Dec 14, 2015)

Steep rump, poor topline, downhill, short bodied. It's hard to tell from the pic but it doesn't look like he has a Roman nose either.


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## deerbunnyfarm (Dec 14, 2015)

Just post pics of potential buys so everyone can show you.


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)




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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

deerbunnyfarm said:


> Steep rump, poor topline, downhill, short bodied. It's hard to tell from the pic but it doesn't look like he has a Roman nose either.


I only know what steep rump and short bodied means but thanks!


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

deerbunnyfarm said:


> Just post pics of potential buys so everyone can show you.


That's my new plan. Don't buy anything unless you ask TGS first. Lol.


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## goatblessings (Jan 6, 2015)

Something you seriously need to look at and address are udders. Nubians are dairy goats - you want the best possible udders for does and also from the buck's line. Get all the info, pictures, look at dam and grandams udders. Not like a meat goat - this is important, even with home milkers


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

goatblessings said:


> Something you seriously need to look at and address are udders. Nubians are dairy goats - you want the best possible udders for does and also from the buck's line. Get all the info, pictures, look at dam and grandams udders. Not like a meat goat - this is important, even with home milkers


Okay.


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

Y'all, remember too that I cannot get 'the best of the best' because I don't have a job. I'm only 14 and my parents do not help me with this at all. For 115 for each of them I think it was okay.


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## deerbunnyfarm (Dec 14, 2015)

Sure, but then save up your money from sales so you can at least continue to upgrade. Maybe don't keep a buck on premise and use a stud instead.


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

deerbunnyfarm said:


> Sure, but then save up your money from sales so you can at least continue to upgrade. Maybe don't keep a buck on premise and use a stud instead.


That's what I wanted to do but I have no way of traveling... My grandparents can't drive, my mom cat drive (back) and my dad is ALWAYS at work. Yes I'm going to try to upgrade more and more.


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## HappyCaliGoats (Mar 19, 2014)

Are the girls registered? Good feed and minerals is the best place to start


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## Suzanne_Tyler (Jul 19, 2014)

What do you keep goats for, pets, meat, dairy, etc.? 
Is Soda in with other goats where you separated him to? 
How much grain and hay are they getting? 
I agree, free choice loose minerals is a must, and also copper bolus.


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

No one is registered... Soda was but I didn't buy the papers... They are pets at the moment trying to get to the milk side of it but still working on it. Minerals, feed, alfalfa... Etc. EVERYTHING was ruined in the flood. I'm working on getting everything back. Please y'all list things you would normally feed or give your animals (in milk and other stages) please... Anything helps I have NOTHING except a bag of Purina goat chow...


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## Suzanne_Tyler (Jul 19, 2014)

Well, sounds like you need to restock on hay, grain, and minerals. Really sorry you lost everything in a flood


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## goatblessings (Jan 6, 2015)

Hopefully you can get things back to normal soon. Also, if you've never had dairy goats realize that you will have to be there every day to milk, at the very least, once a day for many weeks until you get them dried up if they are good milkers. Lots of time commitment. Hopefully this works for you. You may want to look around for a used milk stanchion. And you will need some bare bones milking equipment, storage containers and sanitizing products when the time comes..lots to think about. Also have some bare bones meds on hand. There was a thread on this recently. Good luck!


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## goathiker (Apr 14, 2011)

I've seen hunched bucks like that straighten out after a couple doses of Bo.Se. Even Selenium/E paste may help his structure. 

The older doe doesn't have clean knees at all, she needs CAE tested.


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

Suzanne_Tyler said:


> Well, sounds like you need to restock on hay, grain, and minerals. Really sorry you lost everything in a flood


Thanks I wish there was a red Cross for farms


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

goathiker said:


> I've seen hunched bucks like that straighten out after a couple doses of Bo.Se. Even Selenium/E paste may help his structure.
> 
> The older doe doesn't have clean knees at all, she needs CAE tested.


Clean knees?!?


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## goatblessings (Jan 6, 2015)

Her knees look swollen - too big....


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## nicolemackenzie (Dec 27, 2014)

Her knee joints in her front legs look swollen instead of smooth transitions from upper leg to lower leg.


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## deerbunnyfarm (Dec 14, 2015)

Oh dear, I didn't notice that before.  

That is a huge warning sign of CAE, you need to test her ASAP so that if she does turn out to be pregnant and positive you can pull the babies immediately. They will get CAE from her colostrum if you don't.


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

Okay. I was so thrown of with that wording... Lol still figuring it out...


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## nicolemackenzie (Dec 27, 2014)

AintGotNoCreekRanch said:


> Y'all, remember too that I cannot get 'the best of the best' because I don't have a job. I'm only 14 and my parents do not help me with this at all. For 115 for each of them I think it was okay.


You don't have to start with the best of the best. I think it's more rewarding to work your way up.

I hope your parents will let you hold onto these girls for longer.

Since money and parental assistance are short and supplies destroyed this is what I'd suggest.

Repair any damaged fencing/housing

Get feed; Purina goat chow is fine. I use blue seal caprine challenger. You could mix your own but in your situation it sounds easier to keep it simple.

Supplements; loose goat specific mineral. Not the blocks. I use sweetlix meat maker. See what your feed store has.

Selenium/vitamin E; you can do the gel monthly for everyone. Injectable Bo-Se comes from a vet so would be harder to get without your parents.

Maybe this would make their conformation look better ?

Copper; although I think the does are naturally reddish a copper bolus would help. Supposedly it helps with parasites as well. You can order it online.

CD&T vaccine; if the does are up to date then give them a dose a month before kidding. Then start a series of two 3-4 weeks apart for the kids when they are a couple months old. You'll want to start the kids sooner if mom wasn't vaccinated.

CAE; if you can't afford to test everyone then test laurel. If you can't do that then raise her kids on CAE prevention. Take them away as soon as they are born. CAE is passed through milk and colostrum so don't let them ever have it from their mom.


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## HappyCaliGoats (Mar 19, 2014)

Good recommendations! ^


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

Thanks


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## nicolemackenzie (Dec 27, 2014)

Another thought if you want registered goats.

You can register your girls as native on appearance. Then breed to a registered Nubian and the doe kids would be 50% American Nubians. You could show them in the mixed breed classes at ADGA shows. If you continue breeding each generation to a purebred or American Nubian then in a few generations you'd have American Nubians which could be shown in the Nubian breed classes with the purebred Nubians.

Others in your area could comment if that would increase your resale value on kids. I think most places registered stock sells for more.


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

nicolemackenzie said:


> Another thought if you want registered goats.
> 
> You can register your girls as native on appearance. Then breed to a registered Nubian and the doe kids would be 50% American Nubians. You could show them in the mixed breed classes at ADGA shows. If you continue breeding each generation to a purebred or American Nubian then in a few generations you'd have American Nubians which could be shown in the Nubian breed classes with the purebred Nubians.
> 
> Others in your area could comment if that would increase your resale value on kids. I think most places registered stock sells for more.


I will look into that... I have a deal on some pretty decent looking Bucklings for 100 dollars in Texarkana... But they aren't registered. I would like to start off with one of them but I haven't gotten a profile picture of them yet... From what I've seen they look good maybe the profile pics will show any flaws... I will post when I receive them.


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

Okay buckling 1...


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

Buckling 2...


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## HappyCaliGoats (Mar 19, 2014)

Both kids have steep rumps but I would like to see more pix of number two, the way he is standing on that tree could be making him look worse than he is


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## HappyCaliGoats (Mar 19, 2014)

Do they have any pix of the dam? And her udder?


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## goatblessings (Jan 6, 2015)

Have they done testing for CAE/Johnes?


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## Suzanne_Tyler (Jul 19, 2014)

Buckling #2 looks more upright. His withers are also better.


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## goatblessings (Jan 6, 2015)

Why not just wait a little while? Finish selling your small goats and the spotted nubian buckling and invest in a nice registered buckling from a disease tested herd with good udders and milk lines behind him. You will improve the quality of your kids and not have to keep trying to replace something that doesn't do that for you. It doesn't cost any more to feed and care for a quality animal. I would just wait and maybe save a little more. Just my :2cents:


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## deerbunnyfarm (Dec 14, 2015)

Agree. Your yearling is possibly bred already as is your five month old. You need to do pregnancy tests on them... Sister isn't even old enough to be bred yet and you shouldn't be putting Nubian bucks with your pygmy herd so, just go a few months at least without buying something new.


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## nicolemackenzie (Dec 27, 2014)

They are ok. I like the rear leg angulation and body length of buck one. They look to have better rumps than soda maybe. But not great rumps.

I would recommend holding off for now. You have the time to be picky.

Your doeling doesn't need to/shouldn't be bred until Fall 2017.

Laural may be pregnant? So would be having late kids and probably shouldn't be bred this Fall.

I'd use your money to get these two girls at their best, including testing for CAE as this will effect how you care for these girls and their future kids. If laural is CAE positive you may choose to practice prevention for kids or may decide that you want to start with a negative doe instead. You need to decide how you feel about this and what you can realistically handle currently.

If you want a negative doe you should save money for a doeling sisters age instead of buying a buck now.

If you want to keep Laural then I'd say save up for the best registered buck you can get.

Patience can pay off for sure! 

Could you get udder pictures of the bucks dams?


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

goatblessings said:


> Why not just wait a little while? Finish selling your small goats and the spotted nubian buckling and invest in a nice registered buckling from a disease tested herd with good udders and milk lines behind him. You will improve the quality of your kids and not have to keep trying to replace something that doesn't do that for you. It doesn't cost any more to feed and care for a quality animal. I would just wait and maybe save a little more. Just my :2cents:


There are no reg. Nubians here. And I'm still looking.
I'm getting rid of the herd first those boys are under 3months


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## HappyCaliGoats (Mar 19, 2014)

Have the goats you have now been tested for CAE and Johnes? I would say start there, get them tested with the money you get from the pygmys then if they are all clear look into getting a nice buck from a clean, tested herd. Are you breeding just for home milk? If that's the case, there is no need to get rid of soda. It is not my personal preference to breed without improving but some people do it just because they only want milk


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

deerbunnyfarm said:


> Agree. Your yearling is possibly bred already as is your five month old. You need to do pregnancy tests on them... Sister isn't even old enough to be bred yet and you shouldn't be putting Nubian bucks with your pygmy herd so, just go a few months at least without buying something new.


I'm getting rid of them.


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## HappyCaliGoats (Mar 19, 2014)

Your getting rid of the new Nubians?


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

HappyCaliGoats said:


> Your getting rid of the new Nubians?


No.


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

HappyCaliGoats said:


> Have the goats you have now been tested for CAE and Johnes? I would say start there, get them tested with the money you get from the pygmys then if they are all clear look into getting a nice buck from a clean, tested herd. Are you breeding just for home milk? If that's the case, there is no need to get rid of soda. It is not my personal preference to breed without improving but some people do it just because they only want milk


What y'all don't realize is even if for some reason I got say, 600 for those goats... I'm only gonna get 200 because I owe my grandpa...


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## HappyCaliGoats (Mar 19, 2014)

Just making suggestions for what I think would be best to keep your here healthy


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## nicolemackenzie (Dec 27, 2014)

If you owe your grandpa you need to pay him back before buying more goats. It's the responsible thing to do. 

If you don't want registered goats that's fine, but still get the best you can. I still think that you should keep looking. It's tempting to go for a good deal but remember you don't need a buck yet so you can wait for the right buck. There will be more deals. Not being in a rush gives you power.

For example, when car shopping I don't say I have to get a car now I'm desperate because my baby seat doesn't fit in my current car. I let them know I'm willing to walk away if it's not the right deal. There more likely to say yes to my price offer if they think I'll leave without the car if the price isn't right.

Does that make sense?

So go ahead and look but don't go for the first deal just because it's there, go for the right deal!

If you can get pictures of those bucks at their level on flat ground that would be best. Photos of their moms or sisters udders would help with the choice too.

So make sure housing and feed needs of current goats are met as you rebuild post flood.

Find homes for the goats you wish to rehome.

Pay back grandpa.

Get disease testing done.


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## catharina (Mar 17, 2016)

AintGotNoCreekRanch said:


> I only know what steep rump and short bodied means but thanks!


(Back tracking a bit) For non-experts like us, I think the general idea is that the line from the shoulders to the tail should be as straight as possible. Also, looking at the goat from above, the body should have a general wedge shape, the head at the narrow end. This gives her lots of room for a big rumen so she can get the most out of her feed, & carry lots of kids if the goat's a doe. Even from the side a sort of wedge shape is good-while the back should be parallel to the ground, from armpits to belly the line should sort of go downhill. That's all I know & it's not much but I've been told I'm good at describing things so I tried.

You are an impressive fourteen year old!--doing quite a lot with little help or resources. You will do well in life. I'd come help you if I lived near by! Do you have enough space for the goats to browse a lot of their food? I don't, so I bring home lots of big tree branches whenever I can to save on feed costs & make the trips to the feed store further apart. Good luck with your new herd! You still got a good deal for your money on these 3, unless goats are a lot cheaper in your area than mine.

PS-can you pay grandpa in milk?;-)


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## goathiker (Apr 14, 2011)

If she's not completely opposed to it, she can make a market of Cinco De Mayo kids and pay back Grandpa or look for better quality. I don't even bother selling most of my registered LaMancha kids for other purposes , I get much more for them as dinner without all the hassle, and with little feed costs. 
Nubian kids sell into that market well also...


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

nicolemackenzie said:


> If you owe your grandpa you need to pay him back before buying more goats. It's the responsible thing to do.
> 
> If you don't want registered goats that's fine, but still get the best you can. I still think that you should keep looking. It's tempting to go for a good deal but remember you don't need a buck yet so you can wait for the right buck. There will be more deals. Not being in a rush gives you power.
> 
> ...


Obviously I'm going to pay him back first... and the does I have are from a closed herd that was tested neg.


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## nicolemackenzie (Dec 27, 2014)

Just trying to be helpful.


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## deerbunnyfarm (Dec 14, 2015)

AintGotNoCreekRanch said:


> I'm getting rid of them.


You're getting rid of your new Nubians?

Just take a break from buying at least until your remaining goats are healthy, tested, and you have the necessities to keep them.

I honestly don't see the point in looking for bucklings right now at all, it seems like it's just tempting you to make poor decisions.

Sell whatever goats you want to sell, get the remaining ones proper care (that means a pregnancy test for Sister and possible Lute, and CAE testing for Laurel) and get the feed, hay, minerals, meds, everything else they need. Pay grandpa back and then see what you have to work with. You have a year or more before you're going to want to breed these girls so just slow down and think things through.


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

deerbunnyfarm said:


> You're getting rid of your new Nubians?
> 
> Just take a break from buying at least until your remaining goats are healthy, tested, and you have the necessities to keep them.
> 
> ...


No I'm getting rid of the other goats


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## nicolemackenzie (Dec 27, 2014)

She's getting rid of the minis.

To the rest I agree


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## deerbunnyfarm (Dec 14, 2015)

Okay. Even if the herd was closed and tested negative, test Laurel for CAE.


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## ksalvagno (Oct 6, 2009)

If you want to do Nubians, I would hang on to who you have now including the buck. If your sales are mainly pets, then don't worry about some of the stuff you would worry about for show stock. One year of using the current buck and seeing what he produces will hurt nothing. With everything your family has been through with the flood, keep the herd small and get back on your feet.


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

Well, this is what's going to most likely happen... 
-I'll sell all the minis besides my ND jax. 
-I will pay back my grandfather.
-With the remaining money (at most 200) I will get feed, minerals.. etc...
-...and if I still have 100 dollars I'm buying whichever goat is left and if he's not good enough he can be the goat my sister wanted for a pet... 
-Once I get that done I will look into the disease testing because I will need to set up dates on a calendar to do it yearly, same with meds, minerals... etc.


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## ksalvagno (Oct 6, 2009)

I would hang on to any money left over. You should always have some money around in case of emergency. I strongly urge you to just keep what you have for now and keep it small. Slow down and take your time. It never is worth it to rush anything. With the coloring on the current buck, I bet you get some flashy kids that will be easy to sell.


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## deerbunnyfarm (Dec 14, 2015)

I still think testing needs to be a priority way before buying a buckling. Laurel looks like she has CAE... Which will pass on to her offspring through milk. With your school schedule you can't guarantee that you can be there to catch those babies and pull them immediately...


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

catharina said:


> (Back tracking a bit) For non-experts like us, I think the general idea is that the line from the shoulders to the tail should be as straight as possible. Also, looking at the goat from above, the body should have a general wedge shape, the head at the narrow end. This gives her lots of room for a big rumen so she can get the most out of her feed, & carry lots of kids if the goat's a doe. Even from the side a sort of wedge shape is good-while the back should be parallel to the ground, from armpits to belly the line should sort of go downhill. That's all I know & it's not much but I've been told I'm good at describing things so I tried.
> 
> You are an impressive fourteen year old!--doing quite a lot with little help or resources. You will do well in life. I'd come help you if I lived near by! Do you have enough space for the goats to browse a lot of their food? I don't, so I bring home lots of big tree branches whenever I can to save on feed costs & make the trips to the feed store further apart. Good luck with your new herd! You still got a good deal for your money on these 3, unless goats are a lot cheaper in your area than mine.
> 
> PS-can you pay grandpa in milk?;-)


You are EXCELLENT in descriptions. We have 48 acres so when they mow their pen down I let them out where the cows are. They stay away from them but every once and a while an inquisitive little bull calf meets the goats. But my blue heeler, blue, watches the goats and keeps the cows away. And no, the price was great... it's usually higher where I am than other areas...


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

goathiker said:


> If she's not completely opposed to it, she can make a market of Cinco De Mayo kids and pay back Grandpa or look for better quality. I don't even bother selling most of my registered LaMancha kids for other purposes , I get much more for them as dinner without all the hassle, and with little feed costs.
> Nubian kids sell into that market well also...


I wouldn't think that they would... thanks for showing another opportunity, jill!


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

ksalvagno said:


> I would hang on to any money left over. You should always have some money around in case of emergency. I strongly urge you to just keep what you have for now and keep it small. Slow down and take your time. It never is worth it to rush anything. With the coloring on the current buck, I bet you get some flashy kids that will be easy to sell.


That's true... I have a friend that may want to breed to him... well, I guess we'll see! Lol.


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

Okay. Disease testing...



CAE
Jhones... and (spelling I'm sure is wrong)


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## deerbunnyfarm (Dec 14, 2015)

Yes, johnnes


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## AintGotNoCreekRanch (Jan 1, 2014)

But what else?


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## deerbunnyfarm (Dec 14, 2015)

Make CAE the priority right now. The johnnes and CL tests are fairly inconclusive.


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## nicolemackenzie (Dec 27, 2014)

I agree I'd just do CAE. If the lab also does pregnancy tests you could do that at the same time if you wanted because at least at my lab most of the cost for me was the shipping.

For CL I'd watch for abscesses. Be very careful working with other goats on other farms. Wash shoes and clothes before handling your animals. If you buy a goat look at the other animals. If any of them have an abscess then I would not purchase from that farm. I think the blood test can be positive for exposure even if the goat doesn't have CL? So it's not as conclusive and maybe not the best place to put your resources right now.

Similar story with johnes. Wash clothes and shoes when going from farm to farm. The blood test is more useful for a large herd I believe. If the goats look unthrifty and/or many with diarrhea then I wouldn't purchase from that farm.

With Soda, try giving him selenium paste. I think goathiker said that may actually help with his apparent conformation. Make sure his feet are trimmed nicely. Watch him on the move and see how his topline looks then. He is pretty so worth giving him the best shot since you already have him.


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## nicolemackenzie (Dec 27, 2014)

How are things?


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## odieclark (Jan 21, 2016)

Just curious if the pics of these are representative of a boer nubian cross? How big these were in the photos, with their weights?


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