# San Rafael Swell -- Spring 2014



## Charlie Horse (Dec 16, 2012)

I like to promote goat packing by making trip reports and taking photos of my adventures with the pack-goats-in-training. Until they're old enough to carry weight, these are just car-camping trips, but dont worry, we'll start doing some real packing in a couple years.

Remember we're having trouble with the Federal Government regarding pack goats, as they love to shut down whole forests to goats anywhere that they have stocked with big-horn-sheep. Pack goats arent the money making industry and doesnt have the powerful lobby that the hunters have, so we're getting shut down without a second thought to the facts. They're afraid of germs since domestic sheep can infect big horns, you see. Anyhow, the San Rafael doesn't have any sheep or even many rules or fees as it is just BLM land. It would take a life time to explore, so it is a wonderful resource here in Utah for pack goats!

For the first time I did a solo camping trip (Its funny how few people think hiking sounds like fun!) and I brought all five goats and the dog, just to see if I could manage all of them on my own. I was hoping for very few other hikers, so I went early in the season when it is about 30 degrees at night and still before the Easter rush (Heading to the sandy country is an Easter tradition in Utah). It turns out to have been a great idea, since I encountered very few people to confuse the goats and break-up the herd in the narrow canyon confines.









I started out by camping at the entrance to "crack canyon". I was not sure how far into the canyon I could make it with the goats and dogs, but I wanted to give it a shot. Once I parked and I scoped out the camping options, we headed right in.









The goats are particularly athletic early in a trip and they want to play on every interesting formation they find. The youngest two had never been on sandstone before and were learning how keeping their footing is harder than on the granite in the Rockies. They did a couple spectacular crashes right in front of a couple other hikers who seemed to be doubting the legend of goat climbing abilities after seeing Woodstock biff it.









Here is an awesome boulder field within the canyon. Crack canyon is absolutely full of obstacles. These ones were easy.









I try to get at least one glamour shot of each individual goat. Here is Victoria.









Crack Canyon is well named. Unlike Little Wildhorse, which has great wavy narrow slots, this one has sometimes a deep crack in the canyon floor which hollows out almost like a cave.









The trees were just beginning to get their green leaves. I'm sure in the summer it'll be even prettier. I was hoping to see some wild flowers or cactus blooms, but only the Indian Paintbrush was in bloom.









Perfect goat habitat. Dont you wish you had rocks like this for them to play on at home?









Here is Shelby GT looking down from that upper level. I'll talk about how annoying that is later.

We hit obstacle after obstacle. Some made me worry I'd have trouble getting back! Before I went down, I had to be sure I had a plan for the goats and especially the dog to get out again. One difficult one led to another and another until finally I hit one I couldnt get past-- It had a rappelling rope! Usually there was some way to climb up the sides, but this one had smooth walls. A human could shimmy up by pressing against both sides like a ninja, but it was a no-go for the quadrupeds. I didnt get a picture of it because I didn't want to risk the goats daring to jump down. This is where i turned around and had the fun of getting everyone back up all of these obstacles. I had to heave the dog, Sasha, on many of them. Sometimes the younger goats would have trouble finding the right path, or in one case Bacchus just chickened out for no good reason and I had to boost him up. This was a great learning experience for them though! I discovered that Amelia Goat-hart, my small and useless-for-packing female is unstoppable and has wonderful balance and path finding skills, while the yearling packers are not as awesome as they claim to be when the time comes to show their stuff.









It turns out my camping spot was just down the hill from some old uranium mines. There were even some excellent yellow, crystaline uranium rocks out front. There's an old uranium mine on my gold claim in Moab that produced similar rocks. They're more radioactive than my geiger's test sample, so I dont suggest using one in your fire pit )

I didn't take a picture because I didnt bring a tripod, but I slept under the stars and got to see the 'blood moon' in its full glory. It was AMAZING in that setting. It was so bright when it rose over the plateau, and then over an hour the bite out of it grew until it was fully red. I didnt sleep well since the goats never actually sleep their first night out and fidget a lot.
[hr]
The next morning I figured out I had left half of my food at home, so my rations would have to be stretched. I had a little ice on my sleeping bag, but its a Wiggy's so I was plenty comfy even though its just the shell to my main bag. After a small breakfast I packed up and we headed off to Big Wild Horse Canyon.









Woodstock's glamour shot.









Amelia Goat-hart's glamour shot. Note that she is on an arch.









Bacchus' glamour shot.









Wild Horse is a little different than the other canyons as it hits a giant cliff wall and moves along this cliff for quite a while before turning and again making its way outside the reef.









We were fortunate enough to find a little water. One watering hole was dried out by the goats! I brought extra junk shoes thinking we might encounter large puddles and watery zones, but fortunately there was nothing like that even in mid April.









Now if you remember I was complaining how annoying a certain kind of obstacle can be-- Where you have a shelf that slants upward and a crack that wanders through it. Sometimes they end in a dry waterfall like this one, so you're glad to go up the side slope and bypass the falls.









Other times you NEED to travel through the crack, but the goats always seek the highest path. They get higher and higher and then cant figure out how to get to you when they're 15 feet up! Thats right, they're too stupid to go back. I found this to be the only REAL obstacle-- the goat's pathfinding software really sucks at this task and I got mighty cranky every time it happened. Once Victoria actually had me pretty worried as she got down a curve too far and I feared she'd break something if she went over the edge. I had to climb up and lure her back up (with the other goats following me and the dog staying down below). Finally I decided to just grab their collars and drag them with me until the edges got too high to entice them upward.









This one was easy to bypass.









I had to hike way up the side slopes to get past this one. While up there it seemed like a good time for a break.
[hr]








Everyone felt like resting.









And I'm sorry, Shelby, but this is your glamour shot!









As I exited the canyon, I had hoped to find the trail to Wild Horse Window. I followed the wash for a while until I found the parking lot full of RVs at the main entrance.









I had missed it somehow. I backtracked cross-country and found the wash that I think would lead to the amazing cave made of giant arches and full of Indian art, but I decided that due to the delay and everyone getting a bit tired, I'd tackle that the next day. Sasha seemed particularly tuckered, but she was wonderful and leading the way home and even found some turn-offs that I would have missed without her.









As I cooked dinner it became obvious that Sasha was used up. When she finally got up again she was limping just like last year after day 2. I guess her old German Shepherd hips can only take so many steps before they get sore. I knew that there would be no more hiking this trip. I figured I'd still camp the night as a learning experience for everyone.









As the sun set, tiny gnats swarmed us. There was not a single one at crack canyon, but this camp site was filled with them! There must have been a gnat gnest somewhere nearby. I finally could not take it anymore and decided to hit the road rather than camp. And why not-- That cozy bed was waiting for me!


----------



## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

how amazing! I love reading/seeing these goat hiking stories! the jade hanging off of Shelby, Bacchus and Amelia Goat-hart. very glamourous!


----------



## canyontrailgoats (Jan 4, 2014)

Wow! The terrain is beautiful, it looks like a goat heaven! I'd love to explore those canyons with my goats, it sounds like so much fun...
Have you ever encountered cougars on the trail? I assume that's why you have the dogs, in case of predators. It just looks like cougar country.


----------



## ksalvagno (Oct 6, 2009)

How neat! What a beautiful place to hike!


----------



## Charlie Horse (Dec 16, 2012)

I'd doubt that any big cats live there anymore. Frankly its not a great place to view wildlife. It IS a great place to view rocks! I only saw a few lizards and a couple ravens. Without a dependable water source it'd be a tough life for a deer. And since my goats sipped up all the water in that one watering hole...

Really, predators have not been a big problem for goat packers. The majority of the encounters are accidental, and only a few rental goats that got left behind by hunters have been killed by wolves, that I know of.


----------



## snubbie (Apr 13, 2014)

Just gorgeous! I can hardly wait to get my goats and start packing! Scenery looks a little different on this side of the Mississippi though!

FWIW, I don't believe it is hunters lobbying that has shut down the goats in wilderness areas in some parts out west. There are and there is a growing number of hunters using goats for packing. It would be counterproductive to try to shut down Nat. Forest land to goats in that respect. I've spent some considerable time on hunting forums and have heard nothing but negative comments about shutting out goats.

Now, it COULD be hunting outfitters that are trying to shut them down. As it is, my understanding is there is no scientific data showing goats can spread any disease to wild sheep or mtn goats. 

I have not been deeply involved in this so I could be mistaken, in which case, forgive the intrusion.

Great photos by the way! Looks like a great time!


----------



## idahonancy (Dec 13, 2008)

Your opinion may be right on with the outfitters. We can go places where horses cannot. I have only had one conversation with an outfitter in Montana while we were hunting. Not a real positive experience. Most outfitters for hunting are very protective of their livelihood and sharing space with us is not really of any benefit to them. They have a lot more political influence than we goatpackers do.


----------



## Suntoo (Nov 14, 2013)

*Thank you for the inspiration!*

Oh My God!
Thank You Charlie Horse for the beautiful pictures!

I've been to some of those magnificent slot canyons when I was younger.... 
I've never been much for hiking but it was the only way to experience that majesty. If I had goats back then I would have experienced even more....
Even now, I would have more confidence if I could go with one or two of my goats.

A heartfelt THANK YOU for the beautiful pictures!

I hope you have a free Flickr account on Yahoo. There are lots of groups that would not only love seeing your goats but would surely respond to the issue with the Forestry Dept.

:cart:


----------



## snubbie (Apr 13, 2014)

idahonancy said:


> Your opinion may be right on with the outfitters. We can go places where horses cannot. I have only had one conversation with an outfitter in Montana while we were hunting. Not a real positive experience. Most outfitters for hunting are very protective of their livelihood and sharing space with us is not really of any benefit to them. They have a lot more political influence than we goatpackers do.


I have a friend that lives near Twin Falls. I went out last year north of Ketchum on a backpack hunt with him and his llamas. I've been out there a couple of years now. That sort of started the packgoat fever in me!

I need to talk to him about this NF access with him.

If there is any "hunting opposition" to packing with animals other than horses, I would suspect it would be coming from professional outfitters. I don't live out west obviously but keep up somewhat with what's going on. They simply have an attitude, at times, that the areas they work are somehow "theirs". I'm sure that is probably a small minority. But when lobbying government officials to look after "your interest", typically the group as a whole, goes along with, or are at least counted among those who are doing the lobbying. And the larger and better organized, the more political influence they wield. I know most outfitters carry membership in some type of statewide outfitter trade organizations. If these organizations lobby politicians, regardless where the rank and file membership stands on the issue, they would be counted among those doing the lobbying for whatever the cause du jour may be.

Having said all this, I have no first-hand knowledge that outfitters are involved, just a hunch. I would like to research this a little more.

But I would bet, it has nothing to do with passing disease on to wildlife in spite of using this as justification or rationalization.

My apologies to the OP. Did not mean to hijack your thread!


----------



## rachelseden (Dec 8, 2013)

This is entirely incredible! Beautiful pictures and great descriptions! I had no idea that you could take goats out in the wilderness and let them be off a lead. I really would love to do this, but I live in Indiana. There are a couple of places that could be suitable, but don't know if they allow goats as they are State Parks. You are so lucky to be able to do all that hiking with your goats and dog! I have two wethers that I would love to turn into pack goats


----------



## Charlie Horse (Dec 16, 2012)

*Buckhorn Draw, San Rafael 2014*

13-15 May 2014

Another trip to the desert!

This trip was to the northern part of the San Rafael Swell. As a 12 year old scout I visited the area and I'd wanted to retrace my steps. This time the goal was Calf Canyon, a large branch off of the larger Buckhorn Draw canyon which we played capture-the-flag in after a longer trek out around Assembly Hall Plateau (Which I plan on doing another time). This trip was just me, Sasha the dog, and the five young pack-goats-in-training, Victoria, Shelby GT, Amelia Goat-hart, Bacchus, and Woodstock.









We arrived after lunch and I set up my new Hennessy Hammock on this gigantic ancient tree. It seemed like a good spot at the time. Other than being in a wash, (no rain expected) can you tell me why this is a bad place?










Victoria's glamour shot.









We set out hiking around 2:30 and started toward Calf Canyon. This area is rather green compared to the canyons on the southern side of the Swell. Of course its spring and things are green, but did you know that the Swell only got 22% of normal rainfall this year?









Goats playing on rocks. There were some human rock climbers across the way in a camping area. You could see them climbing up cracks in the sandstone face, and you could hear them taunting death when they survived yet again.









The camera really doesn't do the cliffs justice. I'd need to take telephoto to give the sense of scale that you get when you're there.









An oasis. This place really is beautiful!









Its hard to tell but somehow I feel like someone once tried to make a reservoir here. There are reasons to think it is not a natural feature.
[hr]








Of course we had to go check out these formations.


----------



## Charlie Horse (Dec 16, 2012)

The reason there are no Indian dwellings in here is that they're under 20 feet of rubble. Well. Who knows... I could be right! It was a good place for a break though.









I dub this "Sasha Arch"









They say this sandstone is 180 million years old.









For some reason I am reminded of a scene from the latest King Kong movie...









A little left over from the spring torrents for the goats to drink. Judging from the debris stuck in the branches the water was about 8 feet deep in some places.

So back at camp I made some dinner and let the goats run around grazing while I rested in my hammock. WHOMP! Woodstock climbed up the old tree trunk and jumped on to the top of my hammock's rainfly. It just busted a redundant plastic clip. From then on I folded that side of the rain fly back when the goats were off leash. I'll write a review of the hammock later, but in short I think I like it for goat trekking. I slept quite well compared to all other outings, which says a lot about it.


----------



## Charlie Horse (Dec 16, 2012)

Day 2:

For once the goats slept well on the first night out. I didn't wake up until the sky was blue 
and the sun was touching the tops of the cliffs. I kept the food simple and avoided anything
that required ice or complicated cooking, so breakfast was quick and we headed right out.

Today's goal: Hike the road back to the mouth of Buck Horn Draw and search for a certain
formation in one of the side canyons.









Passing the entrance to Calf Canyon and continuing up Buck Horn Draw.
Note the well groomed, oiled dirt road. We started out in the river bed but I got tired
of watching my feet instead of the scenery as I avoided cacti and getting sand in my shoes.









Yes, the Escalante Indians did worship their goddess, Amelia Goat-hart!









The indestructible youngsters playing risky games as we took a break in the shade.


----------



## Charlie Horse (Dec 16, 2012)

This is the start of the side canyon. At this point we were about 7 miles in to the hike already!
[hr]








This canyon had boulder fields with rocks the size of a room. It was a lot of fun figuring 
out how to get around them. For the goats it was nothing, but for Sasha a few were
a bit of a challenge.









It was a lot of fun figuring out how to get around them. For the goats it was nothing, but 
for Sasha a few were a bit of a challenge.









Since the day was dragging on and I didn't want to push Sasha's old hip joints too far
when we're only at the half-way point, I decided to give up when we were confronted
by a very impressive obstacle. There was a way over it, but the time had come to turn
back.









What a sight, eh? So fun!









Shelby GT's glamour shot, chewing his cud in the shade of a giant boulder.









Yes, Utah's red rock country has a lot of arches indeed!
We found some water a few miles from camp and the critters did a lot of drinking, and
Sasha did a lot of swimming. Too bad there wasn't more water when we needed it.









After dinner we climbed a small hill and watched the sun set on Window Blind Mesa. 
There was one more night out, and an uneventful drive home. The trip went flawlessly
and I'm hoping to get one more outing in before the temperatures make me turn my 
attention to the High Uintas and the cool air at altitude.


----------



## back40goats (Sep 20, 2013)

Awesome hike! Great pics. I really wish we had country like that in Wisconsin. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

absolutely beautiful!


----------



## J.O.Y. Farm (Jan 10, 2012)

Great pictures!! It's so beautiful up there!! Just lovely!


----------



## ThreeHavens (Oct 20, 2011)

I love this! Makes me want to start hiking with my little Nigerians. :lol:


----------



## foxhollow (May 5, 2013)

Thank you so much for sharing! Your pictures are stunning and the goats equally so. I commend you for taking all of them by yourself!!! What an adventure.


----------



## wyomingtrapper (Mar 27, 2014)

Thanks for taking us along on the trip!


----------

