# First batch of soap



## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

Ok. Just made my first batch. I'm not sure this is fun. hehe But....my milk didn't turn brown, everything is still creamy white. That's a good thing. On the other hand...it went to "trace" in, like....2 minutes. Is that normal or what did I do wrong? It's in the mold and setting for 24 hours (right?) and we'll see what it looks like then, I guess...


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

pics pics!

trace time depends on temperature, oils and scents used....

and....welcome to the beginning of your soaping obsession.......


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

I made plain old soap. Lol. Goats milk, lye and lard. No scent no color. 

Carmen, Oleo Acres LLC, NW Ks


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## SMB_GoatHerd (Jan 22, 2014)

Can you give me the recipe for it? I would love to try it!


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

http://www.thegoatspot.net/forum/f202/lard-soap-recipe-125672/

That's where I found the recipe that I used. I froze my milk in an ice cube tray...3/4 cup milk to one tray. I melted my lard on the stove. I put the ice milk cubes in a polish pottery mixing bowl in a sink with cold water. Measured the lye and poured it onto the cubes a little at a time. I think I had the lye dissolved and still had ice...LOL I stirred and stirred with a wooden spoon until I was POSITIVE all the lye was dissolved.

Now that I go back and READ the recipe...I poured my oil into the lye mixture in my bowl instead of the other way around. As I poured the oil in....very slowly....it started to get "custardy" looking and feeling almost instantly. I used an electric hand blender to finish mixing and mixed for about 5 minutes (maybe)

Before starting I took a velveeta box and lined it with saran wrap (which was a royal pain in the rear end). I used a spatula to put the "soap" into the mold...which was an even more pain than lining it! Smoothed the top as best I could and folded excess saran wrap over the top and pressed it all down smooth.

I had a cupful of vinegar on hand for just in case and poured it into my bowl with my mixing utensils and then filled the bowl with cold water for cleaning up.

I also did temp my stuff before mixing it together. My lye mix was about 60 degrees...and my oils were about 80. I think they are suppose to be closer in temp than that. I dunno...

Anyway, that is exactly how I did it. We'll see how it turns out in a couple weeks. LOL

edit: I also took out a tablespoon of the lard and replaced it with coconut oil. I don't know how that changed anything either


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

The lye solution may have been a little cold, but its not too bad.. I don't think u need the ice bath next time.....I used to do ice bath but same thing happened to me - almost instant trace, but it was just the cool lye solution congeling the oils. 

Yes, always lye INTO liquids and oils. 

Oh, and the lye will eventually eat your wooden spoon, so you may want to switch to silicone or stainless steel. 

I was worried about my batch with the cold lye solution, but it turned out ok. You can likely unmold later today (my soal is lucky if I wait 24 hrs to unmold), and if its hard enough you can cut. Do a zap test to see if u dissolved all the lye. 

And....not sure if I mentioned earlier....pics pics?????


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

What is a zap test?

And I'll get a pic later. LOL I have to take Keela to the vet this morning.


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## happybleats (Sep 12, 2010)

zap test is where you touch your tongue to the soap, like a nine volt battery, it will zap you if its not cured...: ) congrats on your soap!!


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

:ROFL::slapfloor::ROFL::slapfloor: Don't think I'm quite ready to "market" my soap!


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

AWESOME! you did great!!! I think most people's first soaps look like a blob - I know mine did, see?

and....have you started planning your next soap yet??


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

Nope. Haven't started planning yet. LOL I'm not sure I really enjoy making soap. But...I will probably try again. Question: Hubby bought me some scent oils. They are "highly fragranced warming oils". Are they ok for using with the soap?


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

are they skin safe? if not, then don't put in soap.... New Direction Aromatics and Liberty Naturals have good prices on bulk essential oils. i was doing a quick comparison the other day and they were both cheaper than Brambleberry.....

well, you haven't used your soap yet. i think once you start using, you may end up being hooked. esp if you start getting artistic with it..... i mean, i just made another batch today. i think I'm going to have to start selling to friends just to fund this "habit"...


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

Ok...it says skin and eye irritant. Guess that's a no then. I'll go check out the one you posted and see. Those oils are darned expensive!

Oh! Another question: Can I use food color in it for coloring?


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

yea, they are. but, you only need 1 oz for 2lbs of oils, which make around 10 bars of soap.

i would suggest against food colouring b/c it'll likely bleed. here's a list of natural colourants you can use that you likely have in your kitchen.
http://candleandsoap.about.com/od/soapmakingbasics/a/natcolors.htm

btw - come join the soap forum!


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

It did NOT pass the zap test. Now what?

Carmen, Oleo Acres LLC, NW Ks


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

that means all the lye has been dissolved, and the soap has completed full saponification. you can cut and let it cure for 4-8 weeks before trying. I gel my soaps, and I have zero patience, so I wait a week before trying them (I'm bad, I know)...


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

It failed the zap test...

Carmen, Oleo Acres LLC, NW Ks


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

It zapped me

Carmen, Oleo Acres LLC, NW Ks


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

oh.....I can't read. sorry :doh:

that means you need to wait a little longer for the saponification process to complete. leave it for another day or two. if your soap didn't gel, then it takes a few extra days for it to be done.


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

Ok

Carmen, Oleo Acres LLC, NW Ks


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## Amiekers (Mar 17, 2014)

I have been making soap for a few months and i have had a few mine seize up on me. Sometimes the fragrance oils behave badly and will cause your soap to seize, become very thick, r they can make your soap rice (it'll look kinda like tapioca). The best thing to do is mix your FO or EO into your other oils and THEN add the lye and milk mixture. The general rule from what I've read is that oyu want your oils and your lye mixture to be about 10 degrees apart from each other and no more than that. The lye mixture with milk should come up to around 80 when you are ready to mix it in with your oils. Before you mix your oils, heat them up to about 117 and then stir, add your shae or mango butter or cocoa butter, then let them cool to the same tem as the lye. FREEZE THE MILK! ALWAYS! lol I have only had one batch that burned and I had to dump it. I notice that it goes much, much easier when I freeze my milk. I can share my super easy recipe with you if you would like. It took me a couple tries to get it right, but I also swapped the palm oil out for lard. ALSO, ALWAYS USE A LYE CALCULATOR! When making new recipes or when finding ones online. Always run it through a lye calculator to make sure there wasn't a typo or anything that could mess up the recipe and the amount of lye is the correct amount. Here's the one I use https://www.thesage.com/calcs/LyeCalc.html


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

I would love your recipe. I did freeze my milk and was so paranoid about burning....lol. didn't come close to burning. I'll check that lye calculator out when I get on the puter but the ones I've seen are so confusing....

Carmen, Oleo Acres LLC, NW Ks


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

I use soapcalc. it's like reading another language at first, but read through the instructions and it'll become clear.


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## Amiekers (Mar 17, 2014)

So this recipe is in grams. The video that I got it from said it's more accurate to measure in grams, but I don't think there's anything wrong with ounces either lol Its 248g milk, 248g olive oil (olive oil makes for a harder bar of soap) 248g coconut oil, 165 of palm oil (I substitute the same amount of lard) 124g Shea butter, 42g castor oil, and 117g of lye. Depending on what kind of oil you use, either fragrance or essential, depends on how much you want to add to your mixture. The general rule I have found is to start with .5oz if you are using essential oils, and .7oz if you are using fragrance. So what I do is start with my lye and milk mixture. Measure out the milk, in a stainless steel bowl, never glass! From what I've read, the lye can eat away at the glass over time and it will eventually shatter. So ya, wearing the goggles and gloves, measure out the lye (I use lye beads, it makes it a lot easier!) and slowly start adding it to the milk. never let the mixture get above 80 degrees when mixing. While that's going, I measure out my olive oil in a large mixing bowl ( make sure it will still fit in the microwave) then I measure out my coconut oil and mix it in with the olive oil. I measure and melt the lard, then mix it in with the other oils. Next, I put the oil and lard mixture in the microwave for about a minute and a half (until it hits 117 degrees) take it out and stir. I measure out my shea butter and stir it in the oils until completely dissolved. Then I measure out and add my castor oil and then set the whole mixture to the side to let it cool down. When it is below 90 degrees, I add my fragrance oil or essential oil and mix it well. If I am using more than one color, I will take 1-2 tablespoons of my oil mixture and put it in a small mixing bowl. I'll add my colorant (I like to use micas) and stir it really well with a coffee frother (make sure there are no lumps of color powder left) then I set this aside until it's time to pour. While it's cooling, I finish my lye and milk mixture. So, I pour my lye and milk mixture slowly into my big bowl of oils when they are about 75-80 degrees. They must be within about 10 degrees of each other. I use a stick blender and will burp it ( just tap it and make sure all the bubbles come out) to make sure there are no bubbles stuck in the blender. The I stir with the blender while pulsing it. Have it on for a few seconds, off for a few. It should take maybe a minute or two to get it to trace When it becomes one solid creamy color, and leaves a light trace (At about medium trace it will look like a runny pudding) I add about one cup of the mixture to my color oils. I use my stick blender going from the lightest to darkest color, so I don't have to rinse in between, and mix these all to the same consistency. Then, pour into your mold! And any designs you want to do or color scheme, any swirls, are all a bunch of fun! I put the lid on my mold and then set it right away into the fridge (I don't like my soap to go through the gel phase, but a down side of this is that it can take a bit longer to cure. I wait about 6 weeks before using) I let it sit in the fridge for a day or two, then pull it out and set the bars on a wire rack to cure.


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## Amiekers (Mar 17, 2014)

Here are some more recipes. This blog is a great place if you are like me and just learning the ropes. They have a lot of information and are awesome about sharing tips and recipes! http://www.soapqueen.com/tag/intermediate/


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## Mamaboyd (Oct 10, 2013)

new directions is a great place to get essential oils and fragrances! That is where I get my soy wax for candles and the scents for my candles and soap. The lavendar and tea tree oils are usually a good price, which I also use for around the home, on my dogs and the tea tree oil is great for ahem...head lice lol.


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

As I'm checking my soap this morning for the zap test a thought occurred to me. I do believe I have hit an all time low. I found myself licking....yes, licking....a large bar of soap to see if all the LYE had saponified and was safe now. Really? Sigh.... By the way...there is still a spot on the bar that "zaps" me...


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## NyGoatMom (Jan 26, 2013)

kccjer said:


> As I'm checking my soap this morning for the zap test a thought occurred to me. I do believe I have hit an all time low. I found myself licking....yes, licking....a large bar of soap to see if all the LYE had saponified and was safe now. Really? Sigh.... By the way...there is still a spot on the bar that "zaps" me...


:ROFL: I just love your descriptive nature! :ROFL:


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## mlktrkdrvr (Dec 7, 2012)

welcome to the fun world of soap making!! I usually soap at about 100 degrees. You should keep the temps of the oils and and lye solution within 10 degrees of each other. I have an infra-red thermometer that I use for soap and cheese making that I LOVE. (I whined long enough that I finally got one for my birthday - try it ) Don't waste food colors on soap making- the ph of the lye will just turn them all brown usually. There are soap colors and mica that you can buy if you really want your soap colored- I don't use a color in any of mine. When I first started making soap to sell I was only going to use essential oils- but there was not really enough variety with just EO and my customers wanted different smells. I started using the Fragrance Oils. I get them through Bulk Apothecary mostly as I have found they are less expensive than brambleberry. Using only lard in your soap will give you a very conditioning bar but no bubbles. Try a blend of 50/50 with coconut oil. Always run it through soapcalc.net. Most of all HAVE FUN! It is not nearly as scary as most people think!


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

50/50 coconut oil? I had read....somewhere in the thousands of pages of info out there....that you don't want to use more than 30% CO?


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

Hmm...if one spot zapped u, then maybe your lye wasn't totally dissolved...have u cut it and does it weep? Google lye crystals in soap and see if it looks like what your bar is seeing. It could just need another day. I made a true castile bar that took about 3 days to not zap me. 

And yes, all soapmakers have been found over the sink, licking their soap. Its something we have to do to perfect our craft. LOL

Depends on what u want to soap for. Salt bars, u want at least 80% CO, but if you're making an everyday use bar, I try to keep in the 20-25% range. I make a kitchen soap that's 50/50 CO/OO. 

You can soap at lower temps. I soap at room temp, around 70 degrees.


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## mlktrkdrvr (Dec 7, 2012)

could be? But I have and I am still alive and have all my skin :stars: Everyone's opinion and experience varies. The main thing is the fat to lye ratio is right. The different oils will give different properties to the soap but if you calculate it right it will all be "soap" and it will all be safe to use. Be sure to lye discount at least 5% (meaning that you use 5% more fat than can be used up by the lye.) If you want to make laundry soap you do not lye discount. Have fun!


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

No zapping so I cut it. It's now on a rack in a canning kettle wrapped in a towel and "curing"

Carmen, Oleo Acres LLC, NW Ks


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## Mamaboyd (Oct 10, 2013)

kccjer said:


> As I'm checking my soap this morning for the zap test a thought occurred to me. I do believe I have hit an all time low. I found myself licking....yes, licking....a large bar of soap to see if all the LYE had saponified and was safe now. Really? Sigh.... By the way...there is still a spot on the bar that "zaps" me...


I have never heard of doing the zap test lol. Next time I make a batch, I may have to get one of my kids to test it hehe. I have the perfect one to choose...the one that peed by the electric fence to see what would happen when we jokingly told him to try it lol. I am not a mean mom, am I?


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

Lol...wish I could talk mine into it! I miss having gullible kids around

Carmen, Oleo Acres LLC, NW Ks


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## liz (Oct 5, 2007)

Too much coconut oil can actually be too drying for your skin, it's cleansing properties are great and it's awesome with making a bar sudsy but it can strip your skin 

I usually use it at a rate no higher than 25% with olive oil and beef tallow or vegetable shortening.... I like using a combo of oils as opposed to just olive oil as I just don't like how a castile soap feels


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## NyGoatMom (Jan 26, 2013)

liz said:


> Too much coconut oil can actually be too drying for your skin, it's cleansing properties are great and it's awesome with making a bar sudsy but it can strip your skin
> 
> I usually use it at a rate no higher than 25% with olive oil and beef tallow or vegetable shortening.... I like using a combo of oils as opposed to just olive oil as I just don't like how a castile soap feels


So Liz, if I want a harder bar of soap with good suds and relatively moisturizing, what oils would you recommend?


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## liz (Oct 5, 2007)

Simple as I can get.... 25% olive, 25% vegetable shortening, 30% beef tallow and 20% coconut oil . With the shortening though... you can try a combination of veggie oils to make 25%.

Hard, sudsy bar that cleans, moisturizes and lasts forever if kept dry between uses


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## NubianFan (Jun 3, 2013)

kccjer said:


> As I'm checking my soap this morning for the zap test a thought occurred to me. I do believe I have hit an all time low. I found myself licking....yes, licking....a large bar of soap to see if all the LYE had saponified and was safe now. Really? Sigh.... By the way...there is still a spot on the bar that "zaps" me...


Trust me Carmen, if you go to your grave with your all time low being that you licked a bar of soap..... you've got NOTHING to worry about...:slapfloor: That isn't even really all that low in the grand scheme of things human.


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## liz (Oct 5, 2007)

Licking soap.... not a big deal  A few years ago, my hubby actually ate my soap... he mistook the cute little rebatched flowers for cookies and popped one in his mouth and chewed before he realized it was soap :slapfloor:


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## NyGoatMom (Jan 26, 2013)

liz said:


> Simple as I can get.... 25% olive, 25% vegetable shortening, 30% beef tallow and 20% coconut oil . With the shortening though... you can try a combination of veggie oils to make 25%.
> 
> Hard, sudsy bar that cleans, moisturizes and lasts forever if kept dry between uses


What could I substitute for the tallow?


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## liz (Oct 5, 2007)

> What could I substitute for the tallow?


Palm oil is the vegetarian form of tallow


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## NyGoatMom (Jan 26, 2013)

Thanks  I am going to actually try making some lotion tomorrow I think.


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

you can try lard too. it sounds icky, but it makes a fantastic soap.....very conditioning.

liz, that's hilarious. wish you had a picture of your hubby the moment he realized he was eating soap! LOL. I guess the "not edible" signs on cupcake and cake soaps are for people like him who won't think twice before popping "food" in his mouth?


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## Amiekers (Mar 17, 2014)

Lard is an awesome substitute for palm oil. There's a lot of people switching to palm alternatives with all of the information coming up about how bad for the environment palm oil is. They try to say that there is "sustainable" farms for palm oil, which is a lie. Deforestation to produce more palm oil has also led to the death of about 50,000 orangutans in just 2 decades, not to mention other species that have been affected and also people. BUT, it's a personal choice. Palm oil works well in soap, so does lard. I think there's the chance for a moral dilemma whichever option you choose.


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

Well....I am actually planning my next batch of soap. And one of my best friends is actually requesting me to make her some....in pumpkin pie scent. Just got to find the scent. I am looking at some basic molds. Any suggestions? Otherwise I'm planning on a glass bread pan next time so I can SEE how well I'm getting the soap packed in.


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## NubianFan (Jun 3, 2013)

I would think spices like cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg would smell like pumpkin pie the problem is I think all those can be irritating to the skin. So you couldn't use very much. I looked at all the essential oils when I was researching it with my daughter and there are so many to choose from and not all of them are expensive. I wish I could remember the website I was on becasue I really liked it it scored each essential oil by how irritating to the skin, what medicinal if any qualities it had, what it mixed well with. It was a really neat site.


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

ah-HA! I knew you'd be planning your next soap endeavour soon!

also, those EOs Leslie mentioned speeds up trace....

here's a video that MAY help -


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## Mamaboyd (Oct 10, 2013)

New Directions has a pumpkin patch scented oil for soaps,candles etc, and they also sell different styles of soap molds 

http://www.newdirectionsaromatics.com/pumpkin-patch-fragrant-oil-p-1111.html


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## liz (Oct 5, 2007)

kccjer said:


> Well....I am actually planning my next batch of soap. And one of my best friends is actually requesting me to make her some....in pumpkin pie scent. Just got to find the scent. I am looking at some basic molds. Any suggestions? Otherwise I'm planning on a glass bread pan next time so I can SEE how well I'm getting the soap packed in.


Molds can be as simple as a card board box lined with a trash bag or if you have a tall round plastic bottle/container that you don't mind using once and throwing away, that works well for a round log that you can cut into the thickness you want. When I mean throw away I say that because you'll need to slice it length wise to remove your soap 
Pringles cans may work too if you take the tin bottom out and replace it with the plastic lid from the top.

As far as a pumpkin pie scent, this contains clove and cinnamon and both will cause the soap to trace very quickly and seize, and then it's extremely difficult to get out of the bowl and into your mold.


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## Mamaboyd (Oct 10, 2013)

What works best when cutting the bars from a slab? I had thought of making cardboard dividers and putting them into whatever I use as a slab mold, hoping that it would be easier than cutting them into bars etc. Any thoughts?


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## liz (Oct 5, 2007)

I use a large kitchen knife with a smooth blade to cut slabs


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## sassykat6181 (Nov 28, 2012)

pastry/dough knife


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

2nd try. Rosemary/mint this time. Worked better. 

Carmen, Oleo Acres LLC, NW Ks


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## NyGoatMom (Jan 26, 2013)

What did you put in it? Dried herbs? I would love to see it cut  Good job...


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

Yep. Dried herbs and a fragrance oil. I'll post a pic when I cut it

Carmen, Oleo Acres LLC, NW Ks


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

yummm


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## NyGoatMom (Jan 26, 2013)

kccjer said:


> Yep. Dried herbs and a fragrance oil. I'll post a pic when I cut it
> 
> Carmen, Oleo Acres LLC, NW Ks


What fragrance?


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

I did a rosemary/mint fragrance oil. It was a cheap one from Walmart...but it was a fragrance oil and not a "highly scented warming oil" so I figured it was safe. It says not to get it in your eyes but nothing about skin sooo....we'll see... All I could smell was the lard when I added it so who knows if it will even smell. LOL Mom and I are going to a different town tomorrow that has a couple craft stores, so I'll see what they have for scents and colors


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## NyGoatMom (Jan 26, 2013)

Nice....yeah, gotta love/hate wally world. 

I bought some of the lavender essential oil from brambleberry...it smells divine!! I used only .1 oz in my recipe that made 20 ounces of lotion and they smell great...


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## CritterCarnival (Sep 18, 2013)

I recently found this site: http://www.lovinsoap.com/ and I am absolutely in love! They make their money from giving classes, but there is also tons of wonderful info, especially on her blog pages. Just hit the "Blog" button and scroll through pages and pages of tutorials, or check out the categories on the right margin to narrow your search. If you go look, plan to spend many hours cruising the site. 

Here is a direct link to two of my favorite blog categories:

Step by step Recipe tutorials: http://www.lovinsoap.com/category/recipes/

Natural colorants and how to use them: http://www.lovinsoap.com/category/color-soap-naturally-series/


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

be careful of using scents when they're not labelled for soap. it can morph into something horrendously smelling (that's happened to me - locally purchased lemon "oil" did not do so well mixed with lye......the smell was horrendous) or irritate your skin, and then you have a wasted batch (but a learning experience).

New Directions Aromatics or Liberty Naturals are sites that many soapmakers all over US and Canada like to use (I've used EOs from both those companies and have been very happy with price and quality). They have some of the best prices out there. Amazon will have some good EOs too, and they have the whole free shipping thing. I've seen people buy fragrance oils from Wholesale Supplies Plus, but I don't use FOs so I can't comment on quality.....

ETA - i don't mean to be annoying, but i just don't want you or your family members get hurt due to FOs not safe for skin use.


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

Woohoo! My soap looks pretty! I'm so excited! It passed the zap test so I will be cutting it here pretty soon. Question....how big do you cut your "bars"? It was in a velveeta box so it's 8 inches long and 2.5 X 2. Would you cut it in 8 pieces of 1 inch each...bigger? smaller?


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## sassykat6181 (Nov 28, 2012)

I cut in 1" bars. Your soap will last longer if you let it cure 6 weeks


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

Thank you Sassy! 6 weeks? I have to wait 6 weeks to try it??? LOL I'll probably start using the first "flop" in a couple weeks and that way the rest has time to cure longer.


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

I think it turned out pretty. Not much scent tho...didn't use enough. And....I cannot cut straight. 

Carmen, Oleo Acres LLC, NW Ks


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## NyGoatMom (Jan 26, 2013)

Awesome  Yeah, the first batch I make is gonna kill me waiting to use it :lol:


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## sassykat6181 (Nov 28, 2012)

It's worth the wait though  I get about 3-4 weeks use from my bars


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## NyGoatMom (Jan 26, 2013)

I have to get my soaping supplies!!! This is killing me Carmen! LOL


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

How do you store them to cure? I don't have a good place to just put them and leave them. Do you wrap them in any way? Do you cure the different scented ones in the same area? Do I need to find a cupboard that I can empty to cure soap....sigh....that should be well nigh impossible to do


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

NyGoatMom said:


> I have to get my soaping supplies!!! This is killing me Carmen! LOL


There really isn't much to soaping supplies for me. I bought a big bucket (25 pounds) of lard last fall to use for tamales (which I still NEED to get done LOL) and buy the lye at the hardware store. The scents aren't that expensive depending where you look for them. I just didn't use enough of the wally world one this last time. I bought velveeta for the box for the mold. Oh....and vinegar to neutralize the lye if needed (I use it to clean up too cause I don't have anywhere to leave things sit out....)


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## sassykat6181 (Nov 28, 2012)

I bought a cheap plastic shelving unit at Home Depot. I put wax paper on the shelf and put the cut bars there to cure. Each shelf for a different scent. I turn them once a week. After three weeks I put them in a tote box but don't seal the lid. Each scent gets it's own box. I have an old bookcase that I put the totes in. I write down the date I made the batch and count out 6 weeks as my "ready" date


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## NyGoatMom (Jan 26, 2013)

kccjer said:


> There really isn't much to soaping supplies for me. I bought a big bucket (25 pounds) of lard last fall to use for tamales (which I still NEED to get done LOL) and buy the lye at the hardware store. The scents aren't that expensive depending where you look for them. I just didn't use enough of the wally world one this last time. I bought velveeta for the box for the mold. Oh....and vinegar to neutralize the lye if needed (I use it to clean up too cause I don't have anywhere to leave things sit out....)


Well, all I need are the oils I want to use. I have the rest...so hopefully this weekend I'll have them 

I may get some velveeta crap too for the box...:lol:


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

I gel my soap....so I wit about a week to try a sliver. I don't think I've ever waited the full 4-6 weeks to try a new soap.....unless it's a scent I hated...


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## CritterCarnival (Sep 18, 2013)

The soap is safe to use as soon as the saponification process is complete, that is, no more "zap" on the tongue.

However...the longer you "cure" your bars, the harder they will become, and the longer they will last in the bath...yeah, I can't wait more than a week or so either...

Oh yeah, take notes as you play with oils and colors and everything. I didn't think I needed to when I started...now I have a rapidly dwindling batch of bars my DH loves, but I have no idea what I used when I made it! :hair:

:ROFL:


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## NyGoatMom (Jan 26, 2013)

nchen7 said:


> I gel my soap....so I wit about a week to try a sliver. I don't think I've ever waited the full 4-6 weeks to try a new soap.....unless it's a scent I hated...


How do you gel it?


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## CritterCarnival (Sep 18, 2013)

kccjer said:


> Well....I am actually planning my next batch of soap. And one of my best friends is actually requesting me to make her some....in pumpkin pie scent. Just got to find the scent. I am looking at some basic molds. Any suggestions? Otherwise I'm planning on a glass bread pan next time so I can SEE how well I'm getting the soap packed in.


I just noticed this line on an old post, and wanted to comment. Instead of having to "pack it in", you should stop earlier in the mixing process.

Only mix until the solution just starts to thicken up, and gets to "trace". Trace is where you stop the blender, lift it out of the soap and let it dribble back over the top. The dribbled lines it makes should leave a subtle "trace" on the surface, before settling back into the mix.

Then you quickly add your scents and/or colors and pour it out into your mold. No packing necessary! :wink:


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## sassykat6181 (Nov 28, 2012)

I pour once it reaches a maple syrup consistency (real maple syrup)

You can use silicone bread pans, makes it real easy to pop out to cut They're decently priced on amazon 

"Pumpkin pie" from BrambleBerry is to die for. I want to eat it in the shower


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

CritterCarnival said:


> Oh yeah, take notes as you play with oils and colors and everything. I didn't think I needed to when I started...now I have a rapidly dwindling batch of bars my DH loves, but I have no idea what I used when I made it! :hair:
> 
> :ROFL:


take noes, and then label the soaps. that's how I do it. so I know when I made each one and which one we liked best, and how long my soaps have been curing for.... my OCD sometimes comes in handy.....



NyGoatMom said:


> How do you gel it?


http://spottedhipposoap.blogspot.com/2010/10/to-gel-or-not-to-gel-gel-phase-and-cold.html


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

Kat, that first batch was kind of a whoops thing. LOL My lye mix was way too cool and my oil started solidifying almost immediately. I just mixed cause I thought I ought to. heheh This last one was much, much better. I think I still mixed a little longer than necessary tho because it started solidifying before I got it completely poured....but sure did work better! I just haven't been sure exactly how long to stir....but I'm getting there!!


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## NyGoatMom (Jan 26, 2013)

Oh, and where did you buy your lard?


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

NyGoatMom said:


> Oh, and where did you buy your lard?


Sam's club....


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

how long to stir depends on what oils you're using, and the temp of everything..... that's another way of saying....it depends..... LOL


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## NyGoatMom (Jan 26, 2013)

Here's the recipe I found tonight I want to try...(well if I have any goats milk....grrrrr)
20 ounces lard
12 ounces olive oil
8 ounces coconut oil
2 ounces castor oil
15.7 ounces of lye
15.2 ounces of goats milk
2 ounces essential oils 

Supposed to make a five pound mold...


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

that is a HUGE amount of soap..... maybe try a 1lb batch or a 2 lb batch. start small when you're new....you don't want to waste 5 lbs of oils IF anything goes wrong.....

and, I think you meant 5.7oz of lye....

I've scaled the recipe down for you to equal 1lb of oils....hope it helps. I've assumed a 5% superfat...


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

woohoo! Soap molds and pumpkin pie scent arrived this morning! Guess who is making soap today? LOL My mama wants tea tree and lavender so may do that one too. Question tho...my hubby thinks I do to make rose shaped soaps and bought molds at a craft store. They are the clear hard plastic ones. Will I be able to get my soap out of those? And how would I do it? Can I spray them with....say....Pam?


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

with those hard plastic molds (make sure they're not going to melt with lye in them), you need to use mineral oil - the only oil that won't saponify. maybe today, when you make your soap, put a little in the mold or on the rim and see if it's ok to use.

btw - didn't I say you'll be making a lot of soap?!?!?!?


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

nchen7 said:


> with those hard plastic molds (make sure they're not going to melt with lye in them), you need to use mineral oil - the only oil that won't saponify. maybe today, when you make your soap, put a little in the mold or on the rim and see if it's ok to use.
> 
> btw - didn't I say you'll be making a lot of soap?!?!?!?


Yeah, yeah. what ever. :lol:

Ok. I'll check the molds. I do know that she carries the melt and pour soaping stuff so that's really what these molds are intended for.


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

M&P have already saponified....so lye is basically not an issue with M&P. or call the lady and ask if the mold will hold up to CP.


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

She won't know. I already talked to her about soap supplies and she only knows about the M&P kind. I'll just test the molds. They were pretty cheap so it's no big deal.


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## NyGoatMom (Jan 26, 2013)

nchen7 said:


> that is a HUGE amount of soap..... maybe try a 1lb batch or a 2 lb batch. start small when you're new....you don't want to waste 5 lbs of oils IF anything goes wrong.....
> 
> and, I think you meant 5.7oz of lye....
> 
> I've scaled the recipe down for you to equal 1lb of oils....hope it helps. I've assumed a 5% superfat...


Thanks Ni  You make a good point! Not sure on the lye...will have to look and see...what is superfat?


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

hahaha Stephanie....can't believe you went ahead and asked about the superfat. I've just been avoiding that one. I figure I'm doing good to even get anything started. hehehe


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## sassykat6181 (Nov 28, 2012)

I bought food grade silicone spray.


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

sassykat6181 said:


> I bought food grade silicone spray.


from where? And would that then work in the hard plastic molds???


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## sassykat6181 (Nov 28, 2012)

Amazon. And it should work in any mold. It dries quickly leaving a layer but doesn't affect the soap. I use it in my silicone and plastic molds. It certainly helps


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

:lol: Heart attack! Googled it and Walmart has it! Brought it up and $124!!!! NO WAY! It's for 12 of them. hehehe And you can only get it online in a case of 12....don't think I need quite that much.


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## NyGoatMom (Jan 26, 2013)

kccjer said:


> hahaha Stephanie....can't believe you went ahead and asked about the superfat. I've just been avoiding that one. I figure I'm doing good to even get anything started. hehehe


Now I'm scared of the answer Carmen! :lol:


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## sassykat6181 (Nov 28, 2012)

$8.89 shipped if you're amazon prime 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013J3ZP4


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## sassykat6181 (Nov 28, 2012)

Superfatting is when you have oil left over not bound to lye

http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-b...cess-soap/superfatting-soap-an-explanation-2/


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## NyGoatMom (Jan 26, 2013)

Oh... Sounds simple enough........................................................................:angry:


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

NyGoatMom said:


> Oh... Sounds simple enough........................................................................:angry:


Exactly. :slapfloor: Just finished my pumpkin soap. I keep going too long into trace and it gets more solid as I pour it out. Sigh...gonna have to work on that. I just don't want to not mix enough...you know?


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## sassykat6181 (Nov 28, 2012)

You want maple syrup/honey consistency. Sometimes I pour thinner if I'm sick of mixing (I do 9# batches) so it takes a while


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## NyGoatMom (Jan 26, 2013)

Lol...so it's hardening in a pour position? Hehehe.... "Waterfall" by Carmen :slapfloor:


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

when do you add your fragrance? I think that's when I ended up mixing too much. After I got to the maple syrup/honey stage I then added the scent oil and had to mix more to get it mixed in. I had seen where I could add the fragrance to the oils first and then add the lye....


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## sassykat6181 (Nov 28, 2012)

I add oils to lye/milk and mix well, then add scent and continue mixing to syrup consistency. Sometimes scent oils can accelerate trace so you should add as soon as your oils and lye/milk are combined


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

you can stop mixing when you don't see any films of oil on the surface (like when you're blending a salad dressing and oil stops surfacing). that's usually when i start adding my additives, scent being last (i use EOs though).


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## liz (Oct 5, 2007)

I use the "hard plastic" candy molds for making different design soaps, I use a 1/4 inch natural bristle paintbrush and apply a very thin coating of petroleum jelly inside them, getting down into the detailed design. After the soaps are ready to come out of the molds, I place the molds into the freezer for an hour or 2, soaps will come right out. I pop them out onto a towel as they will condensate coming from very cold to warm, the paper towel helps wick moisture away as they reach room temp.


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## NyGoatMom (Jan 26, 2013)

All really cool ideas  Can't wait to try it!


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## 4-HGoatGirl (Jul 5, 2013)

*Brambleberry.com*

I think brambleberry.com and soapqueen.com are not only super informative, but have great products. They have a video of goat milk soapmaking that I love.


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

How do you all "cure" your soap? I'm trying to figure out what I need to do for this soap. Do you leave it out for the 6 weeks? Package it before then? What do you do for packaging? I'm considering saran wrap...LOL


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

no saran wrap. the soaps need to breathe, and they still evaporate more after the initial cure.

I have space on shelves in our storage closet. then after the initial 4 week cure, I put mine in paper bags b/c I don't make quite that many. you can put yours in shoe boxes, and leave those in a closet or something to let them sure more. just make sure each diff soap are separated so scents don't mingle with one another, and label everything so you know what it is and when you made it (I do that so I know when they're ready to use).


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## sassykat6181 (Nov 28, 2012)

Don't wrap it up, curing lets the excess water evaporate. 

I bought a cheap plastic shelving unit at Home Depot. I put wax paper on the shelf and put the cut bars there to cure. Each shelf for a different scent. I turn them once a week. After three weeks I put them in a tote box but don't seal the lid. Each scent gets it's own box. I have an old bookcase that I put the totes in. I write down the date I made the batch and count out 6 weeks as my "ready" date


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## SlapHappy (Mar 27, 2014)

I like to use Pringles Chip cans for molds. They make neat looking round soaps and you can just slice right through the card board cans.


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

be careful of the aluminum in the cans. they can react with the lye. you can use PVC pipe as well for round soaps....just line them with freezer paper or parchment paper.


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## SlapHappy (Mar 27, 2014)

nchen7 said:


> be careful of the aluminum in the cans. they can react with the lye. you can use PVC pipe as well for round soaps....just line them with freezer paper or parchment paper.


Hm, You are right. I never noticed anything odd.

I tried the PVC pipe, I didn't line it w/ freezer paper but sprayed it w/silicone spray before filling.

I could not get the soap out. My husband ended up helping me. We hammered a log through the pipe to get the soap out but it messed a lot of it up. LOL I probably won't be trying the PVC again. :laugh:

I have a question. How long do you leave your soap in your molds before taking the soaps out?


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## sassykat6181 (Nov 28, 2012)

I leave it for two days and put it in the freezer for an hour before unmolding


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

I gel mine, so I leave for a day if I can wait. 12 hrs if I can't. 

if you line the PVC pipe, it's super easy to get out.


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

Made my 2nd batch of pumpkin soap. Did better on the trace!! But....I see what was meant by the cinnamon making it seize up. It's ok tho. Not super pretty, but it IS soap! LOL


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

awesome! congrats! you'll learn for next time, to add the scent just as you hit emulsion so it doesn't become soap on a stick...


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## NyGoatMom (Jan 26, 2013)

nchen7 said:


> I gel mine, so I leave for a day if I can wait. 12 hrs if I can't.
> 
> if you line the PVC pipe, it's super easy to get out.


Seems like it would be a pain to line a pvc pipe....


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## liz (Oct 5, 2007)

I got one of those epoxy coated metal wire shelving units from Lowes... I cure my soaps directly on the open racks but lay tissue paper on top of them so they don't collect dust as they lay there 
Because the metal is coated, the raw soap doesn't cause a reaction with the metal and being on open racks allows air to circulate around the entire bar.
I package in plastic baggies when ready to ship or for bigger bars, I print out cigar band type labels and leave the soap "naked"


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

NyGoatMom said:


> Seems like it would be a pain to line a pvc pipe....


it's not so bad. take a piece of freezer or parchment paper a little longer than the length of your pipe and make sure it's wide enough to go around. curl it up stick it in. then the ends that you have hanging out, cut flaps, and tape the flaps down. I use a pvc end for the closed end, so I have a piece of whatever liner I'm using in there, and put the cap on. done!

i'll have to take a picture next time I'm making round soap....


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## SlapHappy (Mar 27, 2014)

nchen7 said:


> it's not so bad. take a piece of freezer or parchment paper a little longer than the length of your pipe and make sure it's wide enough to go around. curl it up stick it in. then the ends that you have hanging out, cut flaps, and tape the flaps down. I use a pvc end for the closed end, so I have a piece of whatever liner I'm using in there, and put the cap on. done!
> 
> i'll have to take a picture next time I'm making round soap....


I think I will try that. I like round soaps.


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

Rosemary mint. This seems to be "wetter" than the pumpkin soap...not a lot of scent either (but it IS the wallyworld stuff soooo....)


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## NyGoatMom (Jan 26, 2013)

Lookin' good Carmen  What did you end up doing to the rose molds?


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

bought some silicone lube spray and used it. popped them into the freezer before trying to unmold them and they just popped right out then!


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## NyGoatMom (Jan 26, 2013)

awesome....I am dying to make some soap!! I think I'll start with Lavender....I love that scent.


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

Did another batch this morning. Not sure why trace seems so hard to get now. Wonder if my temps are higher? Hmmm.....and I never keep notes :eyeroll: But now that I'm actually thinking.....that's got to be it. Makes it way easier to pour into molds tho.


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## sassykat6181 (Nov 28, 2012)

I mix around 100 degrees


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

Keeping notes is always helpful. I have a binder. Print off soapcalc sheets, use it as my checklist and note keeping. Then update as I use the soaps (e.g. How was the soap after the 4 week cure, how did it feel in the shower, time getting to trace, etc)

I soap around 70 degrees

I have a lavender soap in mine. Haven't gotten around to it yet though....don't know what swirl I want to do...


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## NyGoatMom (Jan 26, 2013)

I heard with goats milk you wanna keep the temp low...so it doesn't turn orange. Also, don't you want your lye mixture ten degrees hotter than your oils when you mix?


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

Yeah. I've done good with the 10 degrees thing. I think these last 2 were mixed around 85 & 90 and the others have been down at 75 & 80


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## NyGoatMom (Jan 26, 2013)

How hard is it to get the temps 10 degrees different?


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## sassykat6181 (Nov 28, 2012)

I fill my sink with ice water and put both pans in to even the temp before mixing


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## NyGoatMom (Jan 26, 2013)

But you keep them 10 degrees apart, right?


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## sassykat6181 (Nov 28, 2012)

Nope, same temp. Everyone has their own methods I guess. I haven't had a bad batch and my soaps cure really hard. I've made close to 1000 bars by now


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

When I put the ice water in the sink with my lye mix....it stayed cold enough that it solidified my oils when I added! I melt my oils together and put that pan in the sink also. When the oils are at around 90 degrees I put my frozen milk cubes in a pan in the sink. Add about a third of the lye and stir. Add another third, and then the last third. I stir until everything is dissolved and check temp. If I'm below 80 I leave it set for a little while and when my oil and lye are 10 degrees or closer I mix them together. These last 2 batches I was closer to the 85 and 90 degree when I mixed together and I think that's why they didn't "trace" as quickly.


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

I haven't checked the temps in things in a while. Lol. I just.....put my hand to the outside of the lye container, make sure its kinda warm. Then, make sure all my oils are fluid. Then....mix.....


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

NyGoatMom said:


> I heard with goats milk you wanna keep the temp low...so it doesn't turn orange. Also, don't you want your lye mixture ten degrees hotter than your oils when you mix?


Is your lye suppose to be WARMER than your oils???? Ok. My lye is never as warm as my oil! I'm doing good to get my lye up to 85! When I did ice water, my lye never got above 70!


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## NyGoatMom (Jan 26, 2013)

I'm not sure....Ni?


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## sassykat6181 (Nov 28, 2012)

Depends on how quickly you add your lye to the milk, it creates heat


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## J.O.Y. Farm (Jan 10, 2012)

NyGoatMom said:


> I heard with goats milk you wanna keep the temp low...so it doesn't turn orange. Also, don't you want your lye mixture ten degrees hotter than your oils when you mix?


Huh! I wonder if that's the reason mine was an orangey color..


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

Orangey is milk scalding. I read to keep the lye and oils within 20F of one another. If ur lye solution is too cold, don't keep it in the ice bath.


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## J.O.Y. Farm (Jan 10, 2012)

Ours was with in 10* of each other.. I'm going to try it with frozen milk this next time.. So maybe it won't scorch


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

I always use frozen milk. it's less chance of scorching, and the milk stays creamy. that way also, I don't need the ice bath.


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

Skyla, I had read that about the milk scorching so have been super paranoid about it! LOL I did my lye mix with frozen milk and in an ice water bath first time. Then I did it backwards...poured my oil into my lye and had almost instant "trace" because my lye was cool enough to solidify my oils. Ha! I freeze my milk in ice cube trays (hint: don't buy the cheap 3/$2 at walmart....buy the $2 a piece ones....just saying) Now I just use the frozen milk and the lye....rarely gets above 85. 

It's really nice to have an old-fashioned kitchen sink. I have the super deep enameled cast sink. I put both pans down into the sink and stir up my lye and then add it to my oils all in the sink. I have a cup of vinegar sitting next to me for "just in case" (vinegar neutralizes lye) When I'm done, I pour the vinegar into my pans with my utensils....fill with cold water and leave set for a couple hours. Probably don't need to let it set that long. Then fill the sink with HOT soapy water around the pans and wash everything up. I don't have room to leave it set out until the lye is saponified...

Note: I also have the vinegar sitting there cause I can't stand to do anything with gloves on. So....if I splash some lye, I have something there to neutralize immediately.


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## NyGoatMom (Jan 26, 2013)

I never thought of how to clean the pans....so you leave vinegar water in them?


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

That's what I do. On the videos it says to just leave everything set and when your soap is "safe" (passes that zap test) then it's safe to wash your pans and stuff. I don't have anywhere to leave that much stuff set and I use the pans for other things (like cooking....I'm using my revere ware pans cause they are stainless and have handles so I can pick them up and pour :shrug: ) The vinegar neutralizes the lye so it's safe. Makes it smell kinda nasty tho....kind of a burnt vinegar/lard smell.... I just make sure to add the vinegar to the pans...I use 2 pans so divide the vinegar in about half. Add cold water then to fill the pans and leave them set for a little while. I don't dump out the cold vinegar water when I fill the sink with hot soapy water....just add the hot water and soap. Let it cool enough I can stick my hands in (my water is like....150 degrees!) and wash everything up. It's ready to use whenever I need it again in about 2 hours or so. I'm guessing you could wash it as soon as you use the vinegar, I just let it set cause I'm not sure. LOL


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

come play on soaping forum. there has been plenty of such discussions there.


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

nchen7 said:


> come play on soaping forum. there has been plenty of such discussions there.


I joined. :? It's just so overwhelming...:blue: I could spend all day on there and still not cover everything. I spend enough time on the puter already....


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

I PM'ed you....

you're wearing safety goggles when soaping right?!??!? just remember that skin grows back, eyes don't.....


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

Ummm...sure. No I'm not. I'm wearing my glasses. I know...I know. I make darn sure my face is WAY back from anything I'm doing. But I know...I should be wearing goggles.


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

WEAR GOGGLES!!!!! just recently there was a woman on the other forum who wasn't wearing goggles, was walking her mold with the soap batter to its resting place, something happened, tripped, and the batter bounced into her eye. she went to the emergency room. I think she got lucky and didn't lose her sight (it hit the white, and she rinsed with water for a LONG time). better safe than sorry in this instance!


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

My molds don't move from where I pour them. Ok. I get it. I'll get some goggles.


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

well, that's just her. it can bounce from when you stick blend, or while mixing lye....anything can happen!

but...good girl! get those glasses! it can be cumbersome, but a $3 investment can save your eyesight, *AND *you can look like a mad scientist while you're BEING a mad scientist!


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## NyGoatMom (Jan 26, 2013)

I agree Carmen...the soaping forum is overwhelming to me too...that's why I stick to this site. Maybe while I am experimenting I'll research there but I feel like I have friends on here that are knowledgeable and willing to share their info...I spend too much time on this site....can't imagine if I was active on another :lol:


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

i don't spend that much on there to be honest. i go there when i need inspiration or if I'm thinking about doing something new. there are quite fun people there as well, and it's good to read through some threads in the CP soap section to learn. it's good to get different perspective on things too (e.g. how to clean after soaping question), or getting recipe feedback, or learning how to blend scents.


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## NyGoatMom (Jan 26, 2013)

True, I'm sure there is a lot of good info. I'll have to read through some of the CP threads...


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

Batch of soap today was cooler when I started mixing for trace. It never really got thick at all....but did set up faster when I was pouring into molds. So....I'm gonna say temp makes a big diff on how fast it goes to trace.


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

it does...hotter the mixing temp, the faster it goes to trace. that's why those who do funky designs soap in slow temps.


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## NyGoatMom (Jan 26, 2013)

Ahhhh....I get that. So if you want simple plain soaps you can mix it at a little hotter than if you are wanting to make swirls,different layers,etc.


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

yes. watching soaping videos, when there's complicated swirls, they tend to not mix to medium trace. today, I only went to emulsification b/c it takes time to prep the colours then to do the swirl. if you mix too long and it becomes thick, you don't have enough time to do what you need to do, and it gets too thick to do what you want to do.


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

Made my first batch of eucalyptus/mint soap. Smells divine! But....learned something! Do not wait to spray your molds with the silicone as you are pouring soap. It turns a nasty snot yellow color. LOL Thankfully, it was only the small molds so the bars will be ok. So, lesson learned...spray molds as you are preparing everything to make the soap so it doesn't turn snot yellow when you pour.


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## sassykat6181 (Nov 28, 2012)

Yumm! I make spearmint/eucalyptus


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

LOVE this one! My favorite...eucalyptus mint...


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## ksalvagno (Oct 6, 2009)

Very nice!


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

looks great!


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

I have to say I really do like the molds better than just a lined box that I have to cut. Works easier for me. It doesn't take any time to do a batch either. Probably 30 minutes...


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## sassykat6181 (Nov 28, 2012)

Fellow vendor at the farmers market made me an apron


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## J.O.Y. Farm (Jan 10, 2012)

Very nice!


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

Katrina, that is a COOL apron! How awesome!


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## sassykat6181 (Nov 28, 2012)

Yeah....she took my logo from my business card and had a pattern made for her sewing machine  going to have her do some polo shirts too


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## J.O.Y. Farm (Jan 10, 2012)

Nice that's really awesome!!!


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

WEIRD soaping this morning. Decided that since I have to wait for milk to thaw when I'm stirring the lye mix I'd take some frozen out and add regular to weight. So I did. Big orange chunkies of stuff? Really? How strange...I'm guessing it's from the lye and non-frozen milk? And....if you want to pour your soap into more than one mold or pour period....do NOT let anything have any heat or it will solidify on you before you're done. LOL I didn't have to use my stick blender....stirring with the spoon did it quickly for me today. 

This is definitely something new each and every time.


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## sbaker (Nov 11, 2012)

My first soap mold should be in today! I still have to get all my ingredients though lol! I can. not. wait to start! I'm a distributer for Young Living essential oils, and I'm looking forward to trying my EO's in soap! Seeing all of y'all's soap creations is making me drool! :drool:


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

Carmen, how weird! were you able to get everything out of the pot? maybe this will be your first foray into rebatching

Sarah, I was looking at Young Living EOs when I was purchasing EOs for soap, and the quality (and price) were way too high for me to justify purchasing. for you though, being a distributor! how could you NOT have made soap thus far?!?!? you must have so many blends to try out! my stash of EOs are headed my way soon, so i'll be trying out some EO blends soon! can't wait!


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## sassykat6181 (Nov 28, 2012)

The lye chunks are from overheating


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## sbaker (Nov 11, 2012)

nchen7 said:


> Sarah, I was looking at Young Living EOs when I was purchasing EOs for soap, and the quality (and price) were way too high for me to justify purchasing. for you though, being a distributor! how could you NOT have made soap thus far?!?!? you must have so many blends to try out! my stash of EOs are headed my way soon, so i'll be trying out some EO blends soon! can't wait!


It took me a while to justify the price too, Ni, but after trying them out? No way I would buy anything else now!  I haven't made soap yet, because I sold all of my goats last year, and am just now getting back into it. I bought a doe in milk and her two doelings- next year I'm going to be DROWNING in milk! So now I need to learn how to make soap! I've been enjoying reading all of your comments- you sound very accomplished in the soapmaking art!


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

Katrina, that's what I figured they were. First time I've done that one. LOL I went ahead and poured it into my molds (minus the big orange chunks), so we'll see how it turns out.


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## sassykat6181 (Nov 28, 2012)

I've had it happen when I pour the lye in too quickly. I just fill the sink with cold water and ice cubes and let them (the chunks) dissolve before continuing. Still getting the temp around 90


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## kccjer (Jan 27, 2012)

What is this?


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## NubianFan (Jun 3, 2013)

Oh No!!! Carmen the aliens have escaped!!!!!


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## nchen7 (Feb 25, 2013)

Looks like maybe lye pocket or something didn't mix properly? Think u need to post this on SMF.....


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