# Goats Real Skinny & Under Weight



## Ursalesguru (Nov 3, 2012)

I want to fatten up some goats I just brought who were neglected. I red about bloat so I am not sure the best way to thicken these ladies up.


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## ksalvagno (Oct 6, 2009)

I would start with having fecals done. How many goats did you get? If you can afford it, I would do each goat individually. Have the vet do a fecal to include coccidia. Then you can worm each goat with the proper dewormer.

Alfalfa hay is very good for goats. You could get an alfalfa/grass mix hay and keep it out 24/7. You can also mix alfalfa pellets in with a good goat feed. Adding Calf Manna could help too. As with any dietary change, you must do things slowly. They can get bad diarrhea and/or bloat from sudden changes.

What kind of goats are they? How big are they? That will determine how much feed per day they should ultimately get.


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## kelebek (Oct 5, 2007)

Start with quality hay - but make sure that you have baking soda out at all times for them. From there worm them and repeat in 10-14 days. After a couple weeks start with a handful of grain (a goat grain - not livestock) and gradually increase over time


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## ksalvagno (Oct 6, 2009)

Also make sure to get a good loose goat mineral to be out 24/7. Manna Pro Goat Mineral is a good one. So is Sweetlix Meatmaker 16:8. If you don't have either of those in your area, just look up the labels online and compare what you have in your area to what those labels are.


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## Ursalesguru (Nov 3, 2012)

These are only pics I have need to get more up close. they have been here withe me 2 weeks now eating three acres of bush. One has diarrhea really bad. I am giving them Di-Methox now in water for coccidia the vet came out and I am also giving La 200 for some foot rot issues right in e muscle.


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## clearwtrbeach (May 10, 2012)

some of them don't look too bad, were all these the ones you got at the same time? The majority look to be boer/nubian. Good advice above. I can't tell what type of hay you are giving but if possible try and get some type of alfalfa going- slowly of course.


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## ksalvagno (Oct 6, 2009)

So you have had a fecal done and coccidia was all that was showing?


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## kelebek (Oct 5, 2007)

First - dimethox in the water won't do squat - they do not get an appropriate dose for each animal per day. This will cause resistance. 

If you are to treat for coccidia you need to give each one the daily dose for 5 consecutive days OR you can get a medication called Baycox and it is a one dose wonder - love love love it!


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## Ursalesguru (Nov 3, 2012)

kelebek said:


> First - dimethox in the water won't do squat - they do not get an appropriate dose for each animal per day. This will cause resistance.
> 
> If you are to treat for coccidia you need to give each one the daily dose for 5 consecutive days OR you can get a medication called Baycox and it is a one dose wonder - love love love it!


Now that's helpful... Thx


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## redwingminis (Dec 4, 2012)

It seems to me like there are all sorts of issues these goats can run into and about 10,000 "right" ways to handle them. Is there an idiot proof book or guide one can buy to read up on. I don't mind spending $ on meds but how on earth does a newby like myself figure it all out in a short period of time? I need The Dummy's guide to raising goats.


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## ksalvagno (Oct 6, 2009)

That is the problem. There is always more than one way to take care of things and you just have to figure out what works best for your herd.


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## caprine crazy (Jun 12, 2012)

Believe it or not redwingminis they actually have a book called How To Raise Goats for Dummies. Here's a link: http://www.amazon.com/Raising-Goats-Dummies-Cheryl-Smith/dp/0470568992
Another good book is this one: http://www.amazon.com/How-Raise-Goats-Carol-Amundson/dp/076033157X


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## redwingminis (Dec 4, 2012)

Awesome. Thank you for the direction. Just loaded it to the iPad.

Sent from my iPhone 5


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## Ursalesguru (Nov 3, 2012)

I started the Di Methox directly to mouth. What is the estimated Mount to give for weight of the goat please. I know I have to do it 5 days.


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## Tenacross (May 26, 2011)

First of all, those goats don't look that bad. The scariest thing you said was 
that one had diarrhea. You have involved a vet. You are being responsible.
Fecals are a good tool and you should go ahead and have a couple done.
Especially the diarrhea goat, but if they were mine, I would worm the whole
herd with a cydectin wormer. Fecals only find worm eggs. They don't rule
out worms in goats. As for "fattening them up", I would go slow with that.
You obviously have plenty of hay in front of them and it sounds like they
have access to browse. Don't do anything "drastic" right away. If they
were mine, I would buy a few bales of alfalfa and feed small amounts once
or twice a day like a treat. A handful or so to each goat. Worm then 
feed like you are plus a little alfalfa and see what they look like in a couple
of weeks to a month. You might be surprised how much they fatten with
just this. If they were mine, I would also copper bolus the whole herd.
If after a month, they are still thinner than you would like, then up the alfalfa
and maybe even slowly introduce a low volume of grain or preferably pelleted
feed.


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## Ursalesguru (Nov 3, 2012)

Tenacross said:


> First of all, those goats don't look that bad. The scariest thing you said was
> that one had diarrhea. You have involved a vet. You are being responsible.
> Fecals are a good tool and you should go ahead and have a couple done.
> Especially the diarrhea goat, but if they were mine, I would worm the whole
> ...


So far I am on track we have about 45 the one with the runny poop is on Di Methox and the little ones as Well as they have been exposed. I have the babies and the sick goat separate from the rest. I have the safeguard wormer right now. Is that ok?


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## Tenacross (May 26, 2011)

Ursalesguru said:


> So far I am on track we have about 45 the one with the runny poop is on Di Methox and the little ones as Well as they have been exposed. I have the babies and the sick goat separate from the rest. I have the safeguard wormer right now. Is that ok?


A lot of people have found that parasites have developed resistance to
to the active ingredient in Safeguard. *IF* your goats are *very* wormy,
then some people would recommend using the Safeguard as the first
wormer, then coming back with something more effective later. The 
reasoning behind this is to prevent a massive kill of worms that could then
lead to problems. Even then, you should give the Safeguard three days in
a row and at much larger doses than the label says. Others on here can
tell you about that, it's not my cup of tea. Many goat people use 
Ivermectin and are convinced it is doing a good job worming their goats.
That would be a better choice than Safeguard probably, but where I live,
parasites are quite resistant to ivermectin too. I've had excellent results
with cydectin in the form of Quest paste for horses. In both goats and
horses. I give 2X the dosage for weight that is on the tube for goats.
I have never had a goat or a horse even get a tummy ache from this
product.


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## Ursalesguru (Nov 3, 2012)

Tenacross said:


> A lot of people have found that parasites have developed resistance to
> to the active ingredient in Safeguard. *IF* your goats are *very* wormy,
> then some people would recommend using the Safeguard as the first
> wormer, then coming back with something more effective later. The
> ...


I will keep that in mind my next fecal is Friday I will keep you posted...thank u sooooooo much...


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## liz (Oct 5, 2007)

12.5% DiMethox is dose straight from the bottle, undiluted at a rate of 1cc per 5lbs day 1 then 1cc per 10lbs days 2-5

Febendazole (Safeguard, Panacur) is dosed for 3 days in a row however, accurate weights are needed for dosing with any wormer to be sure the goat is getting enough, When I need to worm I have had success with using ivermectin paste for horses, easily given and dosed at triple the goats weight. 1cc will worm 208lbs, 1/2 cc will worm 104lbs.... it's hard to overdose so I end up giving those who need it here the 1/2 cc dose every 10 days for 3 doses (I have Nigerian Dwarf)

As far as feeding for condition, all advice given has been great...since you have kids and sick goat separate, you may want to start them on an alfalfa hay a little at a time to help build themselves. Dry shredded beet pulp adds calories and carbs, using it along with a good nutrititive feed helps build /keep condition while the goats metabolism uses the BP as energy.


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## 20kidsonhill (Feb 28, 2011)

just so much great advice. But I will add, that we have for years put the sulfa-dimethoxine or corid in the water, Since they are on hay they are more than likely drinking enough. Our vet recommends Corid for coccidiosis. 

Safegaurd is a very weak wormer for most farms and in my opinion pricey, but may be a good place to start. 
Synanthic is $100 plus a bottle, but works much better, Comes in two strengths, really now savings buying the weaker strength, just have to give more of it. Only needs to be given one day instead of 3 in a row and less at a time. 
Prohibit is considered the strongest wormer out there right now, not recommending it, just adding to your notes. can be overdosed easier than many wormers, but works really well. 
Cydectin(quest)(moxidectin) products are great for barber pole worms, wont treat tapeworms at all. With that many goats, Quest would be expensive and you would better off going with a cattle or sheep form of cydectin. If that is what you and your vet decide. 
Ivermectin or ivermectin plus injectable for cattle can be given orally and unless there is mites it should be given orally. The benifit of ivermectin plus is an added active ingredients that also work to kill liver flukes. Do not underdose this wormer. Most people are now recommending somewhere between 1 cc per 20 and 30lbs body weight, repeated every 10 days for 3 treatments. 
Ivermectin injectable for mites works well, again repeat every 10 days. 

Check them for lice.Lice you can see crawling close to their skin, small but can be seen. Lice can easily be treated with a powder or pour-on and retreat every 10 days. 
Check them for mites.Mites can't be seen, but will cause bald spots and scaly spots often starting at pasterns.

I would have a bottle of C&D antitoxin available for bloat, chronic scouring. 

Also Spectam Scour halt/Gaurd for pigs is great for bacterial scours. Wont treat worm loads or coccidiosis, but can help slow down scours while you figure out a problem. 

30 days before breeding them, I would put them all on tetracyclene, either in the water, feed grade(4g) or Oxy-tetracyclene shots for 5 days of treatments. 

Talk with your vet about Bo-se shots.

VAccinate them all for CD&T

although some big farmers are using an 8 way or 9 way that includes pnuemonia, 

there is a vaccine for hoof rot. Can talk to your vet about that. 

CAn treat with oxytetracyclene for the hoof rot as well, as an injection and on the hoof between the toes. 
WE really like Koppertox for the hooves. Regular hoof trimming for the onse that are worst. every 3 or 4 weeks, until it clears up. Hopefully it is from neglect and not the strain that is very contagious and hard to treat. 

Watch for abscess, not let them break in your barn, Can have a vet test them for CL. CAn also vaccinate for CL. Which I would recommend if these are going to be long term does on your farm.


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## Ursalesguru (Nov 3, 2012)

Tenacross said:


> A lot of people have found that parasites have developed resistance to
> to the active ingredient in Safeguard. *IF* your goats are *very* wormy,
> then some people would recommend using the Safeguard as the first
> wormer, then coming back with something more effective later. The
> ...


Just so I get this right..... I dosed all 45 today. I need to do this 3 days in a row? And then again in three weeks?


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## liz (Oct 5, 2007)

Yes, Safeguard (Febendazole) needs to be dosed for 3 days then again in 21 days for 3 days to be effective.


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## Ursalesguru (Nov 3, 2012)

Ok thank you and the dosage please?


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## liz (Oct 5, 2007)

What form of Safeguard are you using?
Liquid or paste?

For Liquid


> 1 cc per 10 lbs orally for 3 days. You must give it 3-5 days to kill tapeworms


For paste


> Triple the goats weight then dose according to the directions for that weight, give 3 days in a row


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