# Neck Space for Milking Stanchion?



## Leao (Aug 27, 2011)

Hi everyone!!!

I am about to embark on building a milking stanchion for 12 goats using a system more or less like below. I'm pretty confident, but I could do with some advice on one aspect. What would you recommend for neck space when the stanchion is closed and when it is open? I have done a lot of googling and found figures ranging from 6 cm to 10 cm for the stanchion when closed.

What would you recommend? If it were only for 1 goat I could create a stanchion specifically for her neck but as the goats will range in size it is more difficult. Our goats will be French Alpine but we are likely to experiment with some cross breeding.

Many, many thanks for your time!

LEAO


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## peggy (Aug 11, 2010)

Hi. Not sure about the set up in the pic but I have a milk stanchion that has an adjustable chain and clip so that it fits any size goat.


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## DavyHollow (Jul 14, 2011)

The best I've seen for head holding has a plank that can be moved back and for to adjust to the goats size. It's got little holes in the top, that you put a peg through to lock the plank into the right spot for the goat. Like a belt with holes. If that makes any sense.


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## Leao (Aug 27, 2011)

Thanks for the quick replies. If I only had a small number of goats something adjustable to each would be perfect but we want to grow to hopefully a flock of 200 in the next few years. The milking system must therefore be homogenized. What is the space for the neck of a goat in your systems? When the stanchion is closed, but also when it is open?


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## RMADairyGoats (Jun 20, 2011)

I just wanted to welcome you to TGS! :wave:


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## DavyHollow (Jul 14, 2011)

Ah yes! Welcome!

My milking stanchion has about a foot of neck space, with the head held by a simple collar and lead restraint. Allows mobility and don't need adjustment.


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## goathiker (Apr 14, 2011)

Okay, the headgate set up that you're showing IS adjustable as much a everyones stanchions are. The middle bar moves back and forth at the top swiveling on a bolt at the bottom. That particular system uses compressed air to hold the headgate closed against the goats neck. 
In order to build this type of system that works manually you would build your rectangular frame. The two uprights for the sides would be @ 2' tall, the middle upright would be @ 3" longer. The top and bottom horizontals would be @ 10" they would sandwich the outside uprights creating a slot between them at the top and bottom. The center upright is attached at the bottom with a bolt so that it swings back and forth in the top slot. You want about 4 1/2" at the bottom where the head will go through so the board will be attached right at the middle. Make sure that it swings freely back and forth. Put an eyebolt at the top of the center board and another at the top of both uprights on the outside. Attach a 3" long medium tension spring to the middle eyebolt. This will be your adjustment. attach a spring snap to the other end of the spring. Goat sticks head through hole you snap the spring to whichever eyebolt will hold the headgate closed. The spring will hold it snugly against their neck and allow for some size differences.
So closed it would be 4 1/2" at the bottom, the size of the goats neck at the point where it goes through becaue of the spring holding tension. It would be 9" at the top and 4 1/2" at the bottom when open.


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## Leao (Aug 27, 2011)

Hi, thanks for the reply goathiker.

Sorry about the confusion with regards to the image I said my goat stanchion would be like. See the image below I found on google images that is more similar to what I want to achieve, i.e. it is not adjustable.

Are you sure that 4.5 inches isn't too wide? Would not 4 inches be sufficient?










Peace Leao


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## goathiker (Apr 14, 2011)

Ah, you're right my mistake. With the bolt in the middle at 4 1/2" the board would be wider...I was thinking of 1x2 wood stock so that would actually make the space at the bottom 3 1/2" from board to board. I still think the spring would make a quick fastener that allows for some play in width at the top.

The second picture is much like the systems that are on our single goat stantions. A lot of people would say it is adjustable because the boards can only close as far as the animals neck will allow them too. That system uses the loop cord to keep it closed, with a very large animal they would have to change the lenth of the cord. With the spring it would stretch and never have to be changed, saving time.


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## goathiker (Apr 14, 2011)

I like this one


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## Leao (Aug 27, 2011)

Looks a little sinister.


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## Leao (Aug 27, 2011)

Can anyone imagine a headstand system that locks automatically when the goat puts its head through the hole?
Even better, a milking table for 12 goats that forces goats to enter their heads in order? For example the first goat uses the headstand on the far left, the 2nd goat uses the head stand second from far left etc. without the need of a human being intervening on occasion?

I know that such devices exist but is there a way to make them home made?

Any ideas would be gratefully received.

Leao


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## goathiker (Apr 14, 2011)

Easy, The goats run up onto the milking table from the side, they all find their place, stick their heads through bars to the trough . Now instead of having headgates to lock you raise a bar in the back that rests across all 12 goats rumps and keeps them from backing out of the trough. You should be able to make it on a swivel that allows you to lock it in on one end and release it by swinging it down and back at an angle so that you don't have to run to both sides.


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