# Can rabbits eat alfalfa and not grain?



## Texaslass (May 15, 2013)

On behalf of my sister, who I wants to get a holland lop for her birthday, can you feed them alfalfa pellets, and no grain?Cause we're switching our goat to no grain, and she was going to feed the rabbit the goat grain, so we were just wondering.


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## ksalvagno (Oct 6, 2009)

Goat grain would be terrible for a rabbit. They really need the rabbit pellet because it has the extra vitamins and minerals that rabbits need.


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## Texaslass (May 15, 2013)

Hmm... Well thanks! I really know nothing about rabbits. I think that I heard they could eat goat grain from some people we know that have goats and were raising rabbits for meat. Not sure if that's where I heard it, but I think so. We haven't seen them in ages though, so it's not like we can just ask them for advice.


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## ksalvagno (Oct 6, 2009)

If the rabbits were just going into the freezer, then it wouldn't matter what you are feeding them. They also may not have cared about losses. If this is a pet rabbit, then I would feed it the regular rabbit feed.


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## Texaslass (May 15, 2013)

Thanks!


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## happybleats (Sep 12, 2010)

baby rabbits canhave a little alfalfa fresh but not adults....its too rich for them..clean hay and rabbit food is best...a mineral and salt block and water and hanging toys for fun : )


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## Texaslass (May 15, 2013)

Thanks for the advice, sounds like you know about rabbits as well as goats!:wink:


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## happybleats (Sep 12, 2010)

Just learning lol...the kids are raising meat rabbits and just asked the same question : ) we have two lop bucks for sale if you want to drive 3 hours lol : )


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## Texaslass (May 15, 2013)

Haha, I wish. I think she wants a female, but she probably wouldn't mind a male. We do sell veggies in San Antonio on the weekends, maybe you could bring em! :wink:


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## happybleats (Sep 12, 2010)

hey thats only 4 hours for us haha


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## Texaslass (May 15, 2013)

Aw, man! Texas is always bigger than I realize!


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## DawnStar (May 19, 2013)

I raised american blues for over 5 years for meat and pet quality. And I would have to say that if the people were loading their rabbits up on grain it was most likely to fatten them up before slaughter just like what you would see in any other meat industry.

However, more often than not-- people who raise rabbits for meat DO care about what their rabbits eat, and that it is premium quality. Poor quality diet, or the wrong diet ruins the meat, and can kill your rabbits. Which are expensive to replace, and it takes a lot of time to get a return on a replacement breeder. Also, any rabbits that are surplus are often sold as pets or breeding stock.

It is not uncommon to see people that raise meat rabbits for their own dinner table, showing and winning grand champion at rabbit shows. This is because they are breeding for the same quality that the judges are looking for. And if the rabbits they breed don't make the cut, they are removed from the gene pool thus strengthening the quality of the breed, and the rabbits/meat produced.

Over all, grain is not good for the long term health of your rabbit.. Too much sugar, protein, and fat. Alfalfa is okay as an occasional treat in small quantities. Too much alfalfa an cause kidney stones, bladder stones, and a whole host of other problems.

Bermuda or Timothy hay is best, along with high quality pellets. Rabbits are like goats, they love treats and can easily be spoiled to the point they will refuse their regular diet in preference of treats. Also you will want to give your bun plenty of chew toys, and a nest... 

They love to burrow and having a soft place to sleep makes them very happy. The edible tunnels and baskets in pet stores are also favorites amongst pet rabbits. 

And depending on the cage you use (and with a little patience) you can potty train your bunny to use a litter box in its cage reducing the risk of fly strike from being in close contact with their droppings. They can also be trained to use a harness  All rabbits enjoy a romp on a fenced in portion of a grassy, shaded, yard, the harness makes it that much safer.


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## Grainneismygoat (Sep 14, 2012)

Grass hay and a small amount of rabbit food is usallay best (IMHO). 
But, i do have one older guy that gets free choice pellets. Pregnant does and growing babies need some alfalfa hay. But i wouldn't ever feed that as a whole diet. 
I hope you find a nice rabbit and your sister enjoys him/her


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## farmgirl631 (May 3, 2013)

We raise rabbits for meat rabbits and my dad has been doing this for 25 years and alfalfa is all we feed them. Although it makes them suck down the water!


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## CountryCrazy (Feb 28, 2013)

Just feed it Timothy hay and rabbit pellets. Free choice all it wants to eat. If it starts getting huge, cut back on the pellets. Mine love the yogurt treats from Walmart. I give them when I refill the hay or pellets. Hop this helps


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## OwnedByTheGoats (Mar 7, 2013)

They NEED rabbit pellets specifically and NOT alfalfa. I hardly ever feed alfalfa. It is too rich and they can develop enteritis and die from it. I would never feed them for then 5 pellets a day, and that is only for my 12 pound does!


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## OwnedByTheGoats (Mar 7, 2013)

Also, petstore anything is usually a big no-no. So is free choice food. Pet rabbits are just like any other animal. You wouldn't feed your goats free choice pellets so don't feed your rabbit that. You wouldn't feed your goat plain sugar, so don't give your rabbit any of that. Country Crazy suggested the "Yogies" treats from the petstore. Frankly, I have to disagree. Those things are chocked full of sugar, and TONS of people don't recognize that. You will be doing your rabbit a favor by not feeding it treats like that. Your rabbit could die at a young age from "overdosing" on petstore treats when you didn't even know it. I have a recipe for oat treats I made up if you want it.


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## Texaslass (May 15, 2013)

Hey everybody, thanks for the input! She actually did get her Holland day before yeterday. Her birthday's still a couple days away, but we were going to be so busy the next week, that we went ahead and got her one. It's too cute; about 8 weeks old, broken orange female. She's so little, she looks like a toy!


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## DawnStar (May 19, 2013)

Congratulations on your new pet


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## DUSTBUNNY-CLYDE (Jun 8, 2013)

Baby bunnies- 8mos. old should have unlimited alfalfa hay and unlimited pellets. Then you can switch to unlimited timothy hay, 1/2 cup pellets a day, and 1 cup of fresh greens, herbs, fruit a day. don't start fresh veggies till 5 mos. old. and introduce slowly!! congrats and best wishes!!!


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## OwnedByTheGoats (Mar 7, 2013)

Don't feed bunnies fruits or veggies before they are sexually mature. It can kill, and will. Also, I wouldn't EVER feed unlimited alfalfa. That is very unhealthy for rabbits.


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## J.O.Y. Farm (Jan 10, 2012)

^ we feed our rabbits fruits and veggies all the time.. Have never had a problem.. And the kits eat it when momma does.. We have never had a problem with it..

And I don't see a problem with treats as long as try are fed lots of them.. Just like a dog or a goat or any animal.. Or human kid  

And as to free choice feeding. We do. Our do well on it. They only eat what they need to.. Least mine do... 

*note that we also raise meat rabbits.. But we still are for and love them and do what we feel is best while they are alive. And feeding free choice they haven't been fat when we harvest them.. 
Really it is all what works best for you and your rabbit.. You will get everyone's opinion here and obviously they aren't all the same


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## DUSTBUNNY-CLYDE (Jun 8, 2013)

*This should help you out. It's the updated list from the house rabbit society for pet rabbits!! *



*Diet*

Jan 10, 2013 by HRS

*What are the basics of a good house rabbit diet?*

A rabbit's diet should be made up of good quality pellets, fresh hay (timothy or other grass hays), water and fresh vegetables. Anything beyond that is a "treat" and should be given in limited quantities.
*What makes a good pellet?*

Pellets should be fresh, and should be relatively high in fiber (18% minimum fiber). Do not purchase more than 6 weeks worth of feed at a time, as it will become spoiled. Pellets should make up less of a rabbit's diet as he or she grows older, and hay should be available 24 hours a day.
*What kinds of veggies should I feed my rabbit?*

When shopping for vegetables , look for a selection of different veggies-look for both dark leafy veggies and root vegetables, and try to get different colors. Stay away from beans and rhubarb. Here's a suggested veggie list.
*Is feeding hay important?*

Hay is essential to a rabbit's good health, providing roughage which reduces the danger of hairballs and other blockages. Apple tree twigs also provide good roughage. Find out where to buy hay here.
*What quantities of food should I feed babies and "teenagers"?*


Birth to 3 weeks-mother's milk
3 to 4 weeks-mother's milk, nibbles of alfalfa and pellets
4 to 7 weeks-mother's milk, access to alfalfa and pellets
7 weeks to 7 months-unlimited pellets, unlimited hay (plus see 12 weeks below)
12 weeks-introduce vegetables (one at a time, quantities under 1/2 oz.)
*What quantities of food should I feed young adults? (7 months to 1 year)*


introduce timothy hay, grass hay, and oat hays, decrease alfalfa
decrease pellets to 1/2 cup per 6 lbs. body weight
increase daily vegetables gradually
fruit daily ration no more than 1 oz. to 2 oz. per 6 lbs. body weight (because of calories)
*What quantities of food should I feed mature adults? (1 to 5 years)*


Unlimited timothy, grass hay, other hays including oat, brome, Bermuda, etc.
1/4 to 1/2 cup pellets per 6 lbs. body weight (depending on metabolism and/or proportionate to veggies)
Minimum 2 cups chopped vegetables per 6 lbs. body weight
fruit daily ration no more than 2 oz. (2 TBL) per 6 lbs. body weight.
*What quantities of food should I feed senior rabbits? (Over 6 years)*


If sufficient weight is maintained, continue adult diet
Frail, older rabbits may need unrestricted pellets to keep weight up. Alfalfa can be given to underweight rabbits, only if calcium levels are normal. Annual blood workups are highly recommended for geriatric rabbits.
*If I feed fewer pellets, how do I compensate?*

When you feed a lower quantity (or no) of pellets, you must replace the nutritional value without the calories, which is done by increasing the vegetables. Also, a variety of hay must be encouraged all day long, we do this by offering fresh hay a couple of times a day.
_Primary Author(s): Marinell Harriman_
_Sources: HRH, various articles from the HRJ, RHN_


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## OwnedByTheGoats (Mar 7, 2013)

Well, I don't want to offend ANYONE. I know I talk like I am hard-headed, and I am sure I get on people's nerves. Maybe I read something wrong along the way or something, but this is just what I feel. Sorry to be rude sounding!


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## J.O.Y. Farm (Jan 10, 2012)

^ you weren't  I was just stating that we have never had a problem with it and that we feed free choice  like I said we all have our own opinions and they are all different  what works for you may not work for me and vice versa


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## Texaslass (May 15, 2013)

DUSTBUNNY-CLYDE said:


> *This should help you out. It's the updated list from the house rabbit society for pet rabbits!! *



 Wow, thanks! I printed this for my sis. I didn't expect to get this many hits on this thread.  Apparently rabbit care is just like goat care, or any animal for that matter: very controversial. :laugh:
But it's helpful to see different opinions. Thank you everyone.


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## OwnedByTheGoats (Mar 7, 2013)

Here is my rabbit care sheet that everyone gets when they pick up a rabbit from me. Expecting another litter in July if anyone is interested! 

*Rabbit Care Sheet for The New Rabbit Owner*

We are overjoyed to know that you will be receiving a rabbit from us. I hope you enjoy your new rabbit! If you have ANY more questions about your bunny, please feel free to contact me at ___________________ .

This page is ONLY about French Lops. This is what this particular breed needs, so keep in mind that some of the content in this sheet does not contribute to other breeds.

*Is your rabbit a pet?* If your rabbit is a pet only, and will not have any other rabbits with it to keep it company, spend as much time as possible with it. Rabbits are colony animals, and all of my does live together. Rabbits are not used to living alone and they rely on you to keep if company. Your rabbit could fall ill if he or she becomes very bored or stressed, so if you only plan on having one, you are commiting yourself to spending time with it everyday. The rabbit is completely relying on you to support it's needs, so be a good pet owner and do that for him/her. Also, if you don't spend time with your rabbit everyday, it may starve itself, stop drinking, or become wild and almost impossible to catch. Just like every animal, rabbits need things to keep them busy.

*Grooming:*
French Lops have fur that is only about 1 inch long. Fur length will of course differ with each rabbit, but that's about average. They generally do not need to be groomed, but you do need to brush them out every 2 months or so, or when they are shedding heavily. If you are breeding French Lops, I recommend keeping the fur you brush out from your rabbits just in case you have a doe who doesn't pull fur her first time. Don't bathe your rabbit, as this can make it ill. Only in extreme cases would you even need to consider doing this. Overall, French Lops don't generally need much fur care. As for their nails, just trim every 2 months or so depending on the surface it is living on. Mine live on concrete so I only need to trim mine every 4 months or so. It is just like trimming a dog's toenails. Just don't hit the quick, or have a vet do it.

*Coat Colors:*
French Lop rabbits came in a huge variety of colors. Most domestic rabbits do. I usually have a lot of different colors in our litters. The last one had a broken chin. and a broken silver-tipped, and this time we got a black, 3 whites, one broken black, and one broken chestnut! The parents are Chestnut Agouti and Broken Gold-Tipped Steel, so to get REW's (Ruby-eyed-whites) was unexpected to say the least! So, as you can see, you never know what you might get. All of the colors are pretty to me in a way, and feel even better than they look!

*Food And Water Needs:*
Of course, rabbits need food and especially water. So here is a bit of info about it all.
First of all, rabbits seem to know when you are giving them water and when their water is old. They have a tendency to not drink very much of their old water, but will suck down new water. You don't want your rabbit to die of thirstyness. So, always make sure your rabbits have new water, especially on hot days. For food, I give my rabbits a feeding shedule everyday so no one gets sick or too fat. If one gets too fat, I can't breed them, and that leads to other problems and so on. So, I feed my does about 1 cup a day split into two feedings. My bucks and weanlings get the same. Everyone gets a sprinkling of oats too, it seems to really make them chow down on their food. Rabbits also need hay. I feed my rabbits regular prairie hay, as we buy big round bales for all of our other animals. Before you pick what kind of hay to feed, do some more research about it. I have heard good things about timothy hay, too, but I do not have any personal experience with it. Rabbits need hay everyday to prevent fur block, which can kill a rabbit easily. More on this subject at Current Feed Requirements below...

*What not to feed a rabbit:*
Unfortunately I am not experienced with giving people this info. My rabbits live in the barn and only get snacks like a handful of grass, an apple slice or oats (which they get sprinkled on their food everyday.). I do know that you are not to give a rabbit ANY vegatables or fruits until they reach sexual maturity which is around 7-9 months old. Rabbits can quickly develop a disease called enteritis and it can kill a rabbit very fast with no signs of it even taking a toll on your rabbit. Look up what not to feed a rabbit on your search bar. You will find lots of reliable info.

*Current Feed Requirements:*
Now that you have purchased a rabbit from me, you should follow my feeding schedule for at least 2 days so your rabbit does not get an upset stomach. Your rabbit will be getting 1/4-1/2 a cup of food day and night, with oats mixed in, depending on the age of your rabbit. I either feed in metal feeders or ceramic bowls but as long as they do not poop and pee in it, or fling it around like my rabbits tend to do, they should be fine with whatever container they have. I will say that I do not recommend plastic anything, as they will usually just tear it up. When you have metal or ceramic things, they obviously can't chew it up so there is no risk of little plastic shards being stuck in their systems.

My rabbits get prairie hay on a regular basis, usually every day. I do not reccomend alfalfa as it can make your rabbit sick if too much is digested. I only feed about 3 pellets of alfalfa at a time, and that is only about every week for only my does. When you pick up your rabbit, you will also recieve a bit of hay and a small bag of food for your rabbits sake. That way he/she will be receiving the exact same diet for a few days and can be gradually switched with the food. The bag of food you receive will have feeding directions written on it. If you have any questions, feel free to ask when you are picking up your rabbit.

*Cleaning:* 
Well, the thing about rabbits is that everything really depends on the rabbit itself. For example, my buck is a lot dirtier than my does. He even puts off a smell, like a goat buck. As for my does, they are pretty tidy and do not put off any particular odor. My solution for buck smell is just to keep everything neat and clean, and don't have much bedding for your rabbit to throw around. I like to give all of my rabbits bedding to sleep on, but with my bucks, I have decided to just put a little bit of pine shavings in there. Most of it ends up not being used anyway. Also, rabbits tend to pick their corners to urinate and poop in, but when one corner gets messy they move the the next. Soon you are just going to have a rabbit who has filled all 4 corners and is working on the middle, so keep the cage clean! NOTE: Make sure you are not using cedar bedding. This is toxic to rabbits and many other small animals. Also, research about pine shavings as some of those can also be harmful to your rabbit.

*Sales Policy:* 
We are not held liable for any sickness, injuries, or death once the animal leaves our farm. When you receive an animal, we will provide you with a small bag of oats/pellets in order for your rabbit to transition to it's new food successfully. No rabbits will leave our farm before they are 2 months old and weaned due to the age where they are prone to develop mild enteritis (6-8 weeks). We ask that you bring a container (cage, rabbit carrier, or box) to bring your rabbit home in as we may not have anything available to give to you for that purpose. I will ask everyone who visits me to put hand sanitizer (provided by me) on before making contact with any of my rabbits. This is because I like to keep a clean colony, and the Snuffles can become a huge issue if any of my rabbits may contract it. I accept Money orders, cash and PayPal only, before you receive your rabbit.
I hope you found this sheet both helpful and informative. I also hope this has helped a bit with your rabbits care. As mentioned above, you may ask me any additional questions you may have while you are visiting or you can email me. With this page, you will recieve your rabbits pedigree (if available), and a bag of food. Please request a handful of hay if you would like that too. It was great meeting you, _________!

Breeder Note:
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________

Written by Grace, aka OwnedByTheGoats


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## Parttimepotter (Jul 3, 2013)

http://riseandshinerabbitry.com/2012/09/09/naturally-feeding-rabbits/

I am raising meat rabbits and have around twenty does. After reading this article I switched all my rabbits to free choice alfalfa, a few greens every day and a little bit of cracked corn for them to grind their teeth on. I have not lost a single rabbit since switching! I think this is more natural for the rabbit because who KNOWS what is in the pellets they sell for rabbits??


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## amrabbitry (May 14, 2013)

I've been showing and breeding Holland Lops for 6 yrs and Hollands can have free choice of feed till 6 months. My Feed is 16% protein with Timothy/orchard hay all the time. At 6 months they go to 3oz of feed a day with Timothy/orchard hay and plenty of water. Alfalfa is big no no with Hollands. Hollands shouldn't weigh more than 4lbs full grown. Also they need a wood block to chew on to keep their teeth down. Rabbits teeth and nails grow and grow they never stop so you need to keep her nails trimmed every 3-4 months. Not sure where you are going to house your bunny but Hollands can't stand the heat. It will kill them if over 85 degrees. You can put water in a 2 liter soda bottle and freeze it. Then put it in their cage, they'll lay up against it. Bunnies cool thru their ears so wetting their ears will cool them off too. 

Enjoy your Holland Lop and remember to hold her everyday.


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## Texaslass (May 15, 2013)

amrabbitry said:


> I've been showing and breeding Holland Lops for 6 yrs and Hollands can have free choice of feed till 6 months. My Feed is 16% protein with Timothy/orchard hay all the time. At 6 months they go to 3oz of feed a day with Timothy/orchard hay and plenty of water. Alfalfa is big no no with Hollands. Hollands shouldn't weigh more than 4lbs full grown. Also they need a wood block to chew on to keep their teeth down. Rabbits teeth and nails grow and grow they never stop so you need to keep her nails trimmed every 3-4 months. Not sure where you are going to house your bunny but Hollands can't stand the heat. It will kill them if over 85 degrees. You can put water in a 2 liter soda bottle and freeze it. Then put it in their cage, they'll lay up against it. Bunnies cool thru their ears so wetting their ears will cool them off too.
> 
> Enjoy your Holland Lop and remember to hold her everyday.


Lol, she gets held constantly!  my sis got a great cage for her birthday. She lives in it in the house, gets free choice manna pro rabbit grain, water and hay, and just a few pellets of alfalfa occasionally. She also has a salt lick and a mineral lick. She also gets let out at least once a day, either in the house or outside with a harness to run around. I think she's a happy rabbit. 

Oh, and she was named Taffy Chloe Ginger Amber Galadriel Autumn. :laugh: my sister's the wacky one !


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