# HELP! swollen watery eyes, weird breathing, etc



## LuvMyNigies

We have several 12-13 wk old RIR chicks. We started out with 16 about 3 weeks ago, and seven of them have died over the last two weeks. Now one of them has eye watering & squeezing shut plus weird breathing with beak open and watery reddish orange poop. We have had it separated from the others since we first noticed it, and she is not eating or drinking well, keeps standing in her water and making plainative sounds. We've been treating her eye with saline eye wash, and trying to get her to eat and drink. Now another in a separate enclosure is starting the same weird breathing with her beak open and sounds like she is sneezing or wheezing. Her eye looks fine so far, but we don't know if it is the same problem as the other. Does anyone know what might be causing either of these problems? Also, should we put the one that just started breathing weird with the other that is separated even though it doesn't have the eye problem? We are desparate for some help and answers or advice. We have lost almost half of our new flock so far and can't afford to lose them all! Don't know if all the same issue or just one of those things with new chicks/pullets.


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## ksalvagno

Look up Mercks disease. Not sure if that is it but it is a start.


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## NyGoatMom

She needs antibitotics. Tylan 200 works best. Also, have you treated for cocci? Sounds like you have two separate issues possibly. Where did you buy the chicks? Are they hatchery chicks? If so, were they vaccinated for anything?

I would do Tylan 200 at 1/4 cc 2 x a day for 5-7 days. I would also start her on corid for cocci as well as the rest of them.

Here is an article on what it could be...Mycoplasma

http://www.hobbyfarms.com/livestock-and-pets/mycoplasmosis-in-chickens.aspx


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## LuvMyNigies

*Just posted pictures of our chicks eyes...*

Thanks for the input. I did look up Merricks and it doesn't quite sound like what we have, but I guess either way it says there is no treatment or cure for it if that is what it is, just to cull them and put them down. So for now, we have her separated and will keep searching for answers. (I did post a few pictures of her eyes, maybe that will help a little.)


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## LuvMyNigies

NyGoatMom said:


> She needs antibitotics. Tylan 200 works best. Also, have you treated for cocci? Sounds like you have two separate issues possibly. Where did you buy the chicks? Are they hatchery chicks? If so, were they vaccinated for anything?
> 
> I would do Tylan 200 at 1/4 cc 2 x a day for 5-7 days. I would also start her on corid for cocci as well as the rest of them.
> 
> Here is an article on what it could be...Mycoplasma
> 
> http://www.hobbyfarms.com/livestock-and-pets/mycoplasmosis-in-chickens.aspx


Thanks! I have been looking into some info on Mycoplasma. Do you know if Tylan and Corid are something that can be purchased locally, like a feed store, etc? of do you have to get them from the vet?


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## NyGoatMom

Yes, Tylan 200 you can get at TSC along with Corid powder. They also sell a Tylan 50 but it is not as effective. The Tylan 200 is a bit pricey and the bottle is big, but you can use it on sick goats as well.
I can't remember the price of the corid but it comes in a white bag as a powder. (These are both labeled for catte use.)

For the corid dosage you use 1 teaspoon per gallon of water for 5 days. They must have access to no other water source and water needs to be changed daily.


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## LuvMyNigies

Should we treat all of the chicks that were together before we separated them as a precaution or just the ones that appear sick?


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## NyGoatMom

I would treat all of them with Corid. The tylan I would treat on an individual basis...but try to keep a close eye on them and catch any that are sick early!


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## LuvMyNigies

Thanks so much NYGOATMOM! You also asked if we were feeding them medicated starter. We aren't. Should we be?


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## NyGoatMom

You're welcome 

I never feed medicated starter. I don't like giving antibiotics if they don't need them. I have had several batches of chicks grow up fine without any meds of any kind at all. I have also had cocci outbreaks that needed treatment.

I would treat now and usually once they are grown,they can handle the cocci loads. All chickens carry it, but when they are young,sick,or old they can become overloaded, hence the problems.

The mycoplasma may still claim some, but if you treat now you should save some as well.

Also, have you dewormed them at all? You may consider doing that as well. I use Valbazen at 1/4 cc for bantams and 1/2 cc for standards. Repeat in ten days. Egg withdrawal is 10 days following the last dose.

Check for signs of lice as well...they tend to get them when down.


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## LuvMyNigies

Sorry for the delay in answering. Seems like I have been tending to ailing chickens non stop! The vet gave me an antibiotic for them, and told me to try that first. I am pretty stressed over this. I feel so sorry for it when its eyes are basically sealed shut. Have been swabbing with saline eye wash a couple of times a day and trying to get it to eat and drink too, even giving her water with an eyedropper. The others seem to be better now, but this one just looks pathetic! She basically stands in the same spot all day and most of the time has her head tucked back under her wing. She doesn't seem to have the runs anymore, but I am wondering if that is because she is barely eating or drinking. 

As far as deworming them and looking for lice, I put the chicken dewormer drops from Tractor Supply in their water and I haven't seen any lice per se, but I don't really know how to spot it in chickens. What do I look for? Also, can humans get it from Chickens?


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## NyGoatMom

which dewormer? Wazine only takes care of roundworms.I recommend what I said in previous post for deworming.
No, you will not get lice from them...look at the skin by the vent, and under the wings. Lice look like little tan bugs...
Unfortunately, it sounds like the one that is still sick probably will not make it.


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## LuvMyNigies

I am pretty sure it was Wazine dewormer that we used, I will try to find the other you mentioned. So far no more of the others have gotten sick and the sick one is still hanging on amazingly enough. Some days it seems to look better then sometimes worse. I did kind of think the same that it would not make it, but it is still with us. I never thought I would be praying for a chicken, but we have been sending up lots of prayers for him since it is so sad to see him looking so pathetic. A lady at the feedstore here suggested I try something called VET RX, an all natural oil that helps to open up their clogged air passages and eyes. It seems to be helping some since it had gotten so bad that for a few days they eyes were both swollen completely shut, but now they are open, and I saw him eating on his own tonight (we've basically been feeding and watering it by hand a few times a day). I know it is still not out of the woods, but we are hopeful that with all the tips from you all and the other stuff we've been doing and with the Lord's help, it will come through.


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## NyGoatMom

Hope he makes it for you....


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## Boban_along

We had something similar happen with our chicks in October. We lost all but one in about a week. We thought encyclopedia and mericks but a fter a lot of research and talking to the vet, we came up with fowl pox. It spread and killed so fast that the labored breathing and the swollen eyes were the only real symptoms. It was like 12-16 hours from appearance of symptoms to them dying. We ended up treating with VetRX and it is what saved the last chick we had. It was so heartbreaking though since it was our very first time having chicks ever that they were my son's 4H project. 
I hope your chicks are better! I would recommend the VetRX though even if it's just to help relieve some of the symptoms, the stuff is amazing. You can get it at tractor supply in the poultry section.


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## LuvMyNigies

We have been using the VetRx, and so far the chicken is still holding on, but not really getting better, just not dying (eyes are even more swollen and puffy reddish pink pockets under they eyes near the beak). How did you use the VetRx? The vet gave me a Rx called ClindaCure by Vedco (Clindamycin Hydrochloride Liquid) last week and told me not to use the Corid. He said to give the Rx for a week, which we did, but it doesn't not seem to have helped, so now he says "well, it is a virus but keep giving the antibiotic for another week and also go ahead and start using the Corid. I tried to get the Corid for them a week ago, and he wouldn't do it and insisted I use the antibiotic instead! And this guy says he has a master's degree in Chickens (I did not know there was such a thing- I hope this guy doesn't follow THE GOAT SPOT )!!!!!! I wish I would have just ignored him and gone with NYGoatMom's advice from the beginning. And he won't give me the Tylan 200 so I need to find another place to get that since I am getting desperate! Now two of the others are starting to get the watery eyes too, so we are doing the corid for all of them. I am so frustrated that I have spent at least 10 times what this chick even cost in just medicine alone and it is still sick after three weeks. I really can't afford this, but I can't stand to let it just die either. This has been a huge learning experience.


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## ksalvagno

You should be able to get Tylan at TSC.


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## LuvMyNigies

Updated pics from tonight while in the process of cleaning eyes.


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## Boban_along

The VetRX we just put straight on there eyes and nostrils after I warmed it up. We put drops under their wings too. Our vet didn't give us any antibiotics because we all agreed it was fowl pox which is viral. And it looks exactly like what your dealing with....swollen watery eyes, and crustiness around mouth, congested breathing.


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## NyGoatMom

I do not believe it is fowl pox...this is fowl pox...crustiness,swollen sinuses and watery eyes are indicative of respiratory illnesses and diseases.


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## NyGoatMom

You need to get some Oxine AH *in addition to the tylan*...read this quote.....
OXINE AH
--A fairly new treatment that is having some good success
*Note: Raw, unfiltered apple cider vinegar (found in the health food section of groceries) may offer some of the benefits that Oxine does, though to a lesser degree.

Caution: PoultryPedia does NOT recommend using Oxine as the primary treatment for most respiratory or other problems, particularly if the problem has developed to a critical point. In many cases, antibiotics and/or other treatments are needed instead of or in addition to Oxine.

Oxine AH is a chemical liquid that kills many types of Fungi on contact, as well as Avian Influenza A virus, Newcastle Disease virus, Staphylococcus, Streptococcus, Salmonella, E. Coli, Mycobacterium, and many other bacteria and viruses. However, Oxine can only kill germs upon direct physical contact, & germs are shielded from contact in many disease situations.
Manufacturer's product description
Article: "The Many Uses of Oxine"
Oxine AH comes as a highly concentrated liquid in a quart or gallon jug, and should be diluted with water according to directions.
You can choose to also purchase Citric Acid Activator. It can be mixed in right before using to make an "activated" Oxine solution. The activated form of Oxine solution is more potent, so dosing or application does not need to be as heavy.

Different sources offer conflicting information on using activated vs. unactivated Oxine. We are currently researching for more complete information.
The Oxine bottle label says: You should NOT use activated Oxine while animals are present, you should use a respirator when spraying, and solution should be washed off feed & water containers before using again.
A few other sources say: Activated and non-activated Oxine AH can both be used around, on or in birds, but you need to use more care and cautious dosing if using activated Oxine. The sources say either form of Oxine may be used quite safely around feed and water, without worry about residues. However, you would have to so some checking to verify these sources' recommendations.
Oxine's effectiveness is deteriorated by exposure to sunlight. Oxine concentrate and all solutions be stored until use in a closed container that is either nontransparent or is kept away from daylight.
Activated Oxine solution's effectiveness will decrease over time so you need to mix it fresh at least once a week.
Non-activated Oxine mixed with water will stay effective (although at a lower intensity) a long time.

Nebulization / inhaled mist treatment for Respiratory infections:
Note: Nebulization is an off-label use for Oxine AH, but many poultry keepers report it has helped their birds.
Mix 2 1/2 teaspoons non-activated Oxine AH with 1 cup water. (This is enough for about four 15-min. humidifier or 8 spray bottle treatments for a few chickens.)
* Apply via a fogger, evaporative or ultrasonic "cool mist" humidifier, vaporizer, or very fine mist spray bottle, and direct the mist toward the bird's face.
Note: Water droplets must be very small to reach as deeply as possible into the birds' lungs & air sacs.
~~Tip: You can plug a humidifier into an electrical outlet timer, to set up a cycle of power being turned off & on a few times each day, to provide scheduled Oxine nebulization sessions without you needing to manually run the humidifier.
Directing the mist toward a bird's face can be most conveniently done while it is sleeping on the roost at night, or if you place the bird in a confined area.
* Nice bonus! The mist will also kill mold, bacteria & viruses on surfaces it lands on in the coop.
For less severe problems: Give one 15+ minute treatment every other day for a week.
For severe problems: Give treatments up to 3 times per day or leave humidifier on overnight for up to 5 days.
Routine care: Give 15-min treatment once a week.
Caution: Do not overdo the heaviness / intensity of the mist! (especially if using spray bottle).
Too heavy moisture amounts might make breathing somewhat difficult plus cause too much moisture buildup in lungs and breathing air sacs.
With some people, it may be possible for Oxine mist to cause mild temporary headache. It is not known if some birds may experience similar discomfort.


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## NyGoatMom

You can also use this stuff to clean your coop....it only comes in a gallon for what i know...

http://www.amazon.com/Bio-Cide-International-Oxine-AH-Gallon/dp/B000HT7H8W


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## erica4481

Looks like mycoplasma to me. My chickens had an out break once.most people would just cull them. But I decided to treat it with tylan200. The symptoms went away but cam back a couple months later so I gave every chicken injections again and they never showed signs again. Supposedly they will always be carriers though .


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## LuvMyNigies

*Valbazen*



NyGoatMom said:


> You're welcome
> 
> Also, have you dewormed them at all? You may consider doing that as well. I use Valbazen at 1/4 cc for bantams and 1/2 cc for standards. Repeat in ten days. Egg withdrawal is 10 days following the last dose.


The only Valbazen I can find is a huge [and super expensive] bottle that is labeled "FOR CATTLE ONLY". Is this the same thing that is used for chickens? If so, is there a place where I can get a smaller less expensive bottle? Thanks.


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## NyGoatMom

Unfortunately, I have not seen a smaller bottle....you could use safeguard dewormer for goats. That is cheaper...http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/safe-guardreg;-goat-dewormer-125-ml
Dosage for that is 3/4 cc for standard birds. Repeat in ten days.


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