# New here trying to find a dairy goat , have questions



## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

I really like goats and I want a milk one. I am getting Calves and want to use the milk for them. I will probably end up with a few goats. I also have a neighbor a few miles over with lots of goats so that where I can borrow a buck from.

Anyway I am going to go to talk to the neighbor and see what he has, and these are the candidates. Who do you think???

What should I ask the people?

http://boise.craigslist.org/grd/2949624782.html

http://boise.craigslist.org/grd/2947947190.html

And this one, but I don't know anything about it.

http://boise.craigslist.org/grd/2959593199.html

I don't know much about goats so any other info welcom thanks.


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## liz (Oct 5, 2007)

The nubian cross doe in the last pic looks to have a better overall form...the other does have really steep rumps which can cause issues with delivery.
The last doe looks to be better taken care of...her coat doesn't look scruffy like the one in the 2nd pic
If you get the last doe, and she's pregnant..it means that you can milk her once a day about 3 weeks after she kids and you'll have milk sooner but you'll need to be prepared sooner for a delivery and have a safe shelter and pen for her and her babies.


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## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

Okay, I liked the lamancha the best. Except for no ears. I am going to get some goat milk today and see if I like it. I am not a milk drinker only chocolate milk so I doubt I will like it.


The nubian seem to be a bit much.

I guess I will talk to the goat neighbors and see what they will sell me.

I found dairy breed doling for 100 a piece, but I want to start with one thats already milking or pregnant.


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## xymenah (Jul 1, 2011)

Welcome to the world of goats. They can steal your heart and are like potato chips so have fun and enjoy the ride. I'm with Liz. The first two look ok but I'd go look at them and see for sure. That second does not look properly cared for she is thin, her hooves are long and looks to have a very steep rump. If you look at the hips and see the sudden slope down to the tail like that its a steep rump and as stated can make giving birth a little harder. The last doe looks healthy and her fur is not tousled. Goats are escape artistes and need a solid pen, with of course goat specific minerals the ones for sheep do not have enough copper as well as good hay if they don't have good browse. People sell what they call "goat or cow hay" do not buy that kind. Most of the time it has mold or is soured. Goats are very sensitive to mold and can get sick fast. You'll fine much more info around the site. Just search anything you want to know in the site search bar and what you need to know will probably pop up. Good luck in your search.


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## ptgoats45 (Nov 28, 2011)

Out of those three, I would go with the last doe as my first choice and the 1st as my second. I wouldn't go look at the 2nd doe. Her udder looks non-existant, her hooves are long and her coat is very rough. The first doe looks ok, but I would try to stay away from horns.

The last doe looks well cared for, and well built. Her front legs could be straighter, but otherwise she looks like a nice doe. 

If you are new to goats, I would find one that is very tame and one that has already been milked. Wild does who have never been milked can be a challenge and some will never become super tame. When you go to look at one if she is already in milk, I would ask to see the doe get on the milkstand (if they have one) and also touch her udder to make sure she is used to it. I would also express a stream or two from each side to make sure they both work, that the milk will come easily and again that the doe is used to being milked. I would definitly try to look at several goats and ask many questions about if they have been milked, how (hand or machine), how much milk they give, when they were last wormed/vaccinated, how many kids they had, if they kidded easily and if they are tested for CAE.

If you are wanting milk to feed calves and no kids, you can pull the kids at birth, put them on a bottle (feed their moms colostrum first of course) and then sell as pets.


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## nancy d (Oct 5, 2007)

I like #3 too, but I would ask about the hair loss on her shoulder there. If it was a burst abcess, walk away.


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## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

I bought some milk and actually it was pretty good. Really creamy. No milky after taste. Would make great ice cream. I am going to see what chocolate goat milk taste like later.

Is it more cost effective to have your own goat or do you end up spending more??


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## liz (Oct 5, 2007)

Goats are just like any other producing animal...you need to put time, care and good management practices into them to get what you want out of them.... good feed, quality hay and pasture, clean housing and routine hoof trims are a must and they thrive on attention. Cost effective...well, between feed costs, vet visits and the occassional need for treatment for illness, what I get from mine as far as milk and the products I make from the milk and kids...I basically have a small enough herd that pays for their feed and hay yearly.
Startup costs for fencing and housing ends up being the most $ spent at first.


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## nubians2 (Feb 20, 2011)

I saw that doe posted lately and thought she looked pretty nice. I agree that I would see if she has been tested for CAE. The price is about right for the area especially since she is pregnant and you are looking at having a kid or two from her. I use horse fencing on split rail fencing for my goats and we toe the last foot in the ground to discourage digging. If you are in a more exposed area you will have to watch out for coyotes or lock them up at night. I am in your area so if you have any questions you can PM me.


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## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

how much would a Nubian kid go for? would it basically pay for her? i can't afford to loose money.

it is either option 3 or 1. 

i am sort of leaning toward option one the lamancha since the price and she does have a doeling. but the nubian looks better. 

i decided to look at others besides milk does but only found boers.


how much will the nubian produce? 

how long would a ton of grass hay last for with 1 average goat eating it?


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## MarthaBella (Mar 15, 2012)

If you can't afford to lose money I'm not sure you want to get into goats...my personal experience is that any animal is going to cost more that buying cheap food at the grocery store costs. That being said, quality is unsurpassed when you "grow your own" and I am super happy feeding my children our own milk from our own goats. There is always a risk when buying animals, breeding them, owning them. Most of us have lost some in the past and it hurts emotionally and economically. It would be impossible for us to tell you how much milk the Nubian would produce unless we knew that goat personally. She could produce lots or she could have a damaged udder that the seller isn't saying anything about that cuts her output. As far as one ton of grass hay...for one goat it should last a very long time if it is stored well and doesn't get moldy...but I live in western Washington and everything around here gets moldy if not stored really well. I don't mean to sound overly discouraging...I LOVE having my dairy goat...she is so nice and gives the most wonderful milk ever. My kids say it tastes WAY better than store milk (and they are among the most picky kids in the world!).


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## Ali_1010 (May 8, 2011)

Hello, and welcome to the world of dairy goats!  Dairy goats are extremely fun and entertaining, plus they give you delicious product for consumption which not many pets can do. 

As for your choices, I would have to agree with everyone on doe #3. She looks the healthiest and most correct. As for her price, that is extremely cheap, in my opinion, for a nubian doe. If you feed her a correct diet and take good care of her, she will give you, at worst, about 1/2 gal. a day. This does not sound like much until you look at your fridge after a week and go-where do I put all the milk?! :laugh: On average most people I know get about 1 gal./day from their nubian does. 

When you calculate out the cost of feed, it probably cost those people about $750 to feed that doe to where she is now, if not more (depending on age). So, $250 OBO is a steal-i'd snatch her up if price is a concern. In my area, $350-$400 is an average price to pay for an ok quality doe in milk with an ok quality milk production. However, due to the fact that you do want to get the most for your money, ask the owners first if their doe is CL/CAE negative. If they do not know, have her tested before you bring her home. You wouldn't want to buy her and find out you have a CL/CAE goat on your hands. 

However, another concern you will need to factor in is the fact that goats are social creatures, being herd animals. Should you buy her, she will need a friend ASAP. Otherwise she'll be crying all day long and sad as can be, possibly even leading to sickness/death should her loneliness become bad enough. 

Just some things to think about-goodluck on your goat endeavors!


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## Hobbyfarmer (Sep 7, 2011)

Welcome to the forum! I'm also new to goats and got my first goat last November. We had our first kids last week  They have been a delight and a pleasure to own. Here is what I've learned. You get what you pay for. I did a TON of looking at online classifieds before I bought my 2 ladies. This gave me a good idea of what prices were in my area. I also attended some shows to check out and meet breeders. If you are concerned about loosing money I would shop around a bit more. So you know a good deal/doe when you see it and snap her up. Lower priced animals are priced that way for a reason. Their milk yield will be smaller and their health probably not be the greatest. A quality doe will pretty much maintain it's value as it ages and her kids will sell themselves for a premium price. 

As far as what to ask when you call on them. Ask about vaccinations, deworming, CAE/CL tested (nasty goat diseases), hoof care, diet, personality, pedigree, age, parents on site, hand or machine milked and milk quality. When you visit a goat always ask to milk her out yourself. This will give you the best indicator of what you're gettin'. 

Best of luck with your new acquisition.


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## keren (Oct 26, 2008)

To be honest if you are raising calves, you would be better off getting yourself a nurse cow or two and fostering them


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## jaycee (Aug 3, 2011)

keren said:


> To be honest if you are raising calves, you would be better off getting yourself a nurse cow or two and fostering them


Yes I think more than one calf would likely require more milk than a single goat would produce even if she's a proficient milker. Of course, a nurse cow will be more expensive initially and require more space and feed. She will also require much less maintenance in my experience.

As for the question about saving money producing your own milk... I think there are a great many benefits to raising goats ... they are fun, entertaining... the milk is better than any you can buy and there is a satisfaction from producing for your own consumption... knowing things on your table came from YOUR farm... but saving money... no.


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## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

I kind of decided to forget the calves on goat milk. Unless of course I can expand my herd. I might raise one on it depending. Just I read how much healthier the calves are on goats milk instead of replacer. 

I think I will go for the Nubian. I can probably get it for 200.

Do they usually have one pregnancy a year? Is that okay to keep them healthy?

What will I need to feed?

I have fencing from lambs I had a few years ago. I will just need to goat proof it a little.


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## xymenah (Jul 1, 2011)

Also remember that goats do not do well alone so you need to get more then one even if the calves are around. She will get lonely and needs company. You need to feed her either a goat chow or you can use a high quality horse feed for grain. The amount depends but don't give her very much until after she kids or the kids can get too big and cause birthing troubles. Alfalfa pellets will also help if you are feeding grass hay. They need the calcium from it if they are pregnant. Once a year is fine to breed. Some people breed twice a year but I don't recommended it. Doing that can really run them down. A Nubian can produce anywhere from one quart to two gallons it depends on the goat and the breeding behind it.


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## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

i have free access to grain and barley, and pinto beans. only problem they are 3 hours away. i guess the goats and chickens can share what i have right now. have 30 laying hens plus 25 meat chicks coming. it comes off my grandpa/uncle/cousin farm. i wonder when they are coming, they can fill up one of their 2,000 pound totes.......


i could probably find her a wether. people give them away.

so while pregnant would alfalfa work? or should i do the grass hay, with alfalfa pellets? also, i have heard of people giving rabbit pellets instead of the alfalfa pellets. basically the same, would that work?

i called the person with the Nubian no answer so i will try this evening.


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## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

I got a hold of the Nubian person. They said it might be 1-2 years old. They have had it for 2 months, their uncle took his goat so it is lonely. The woman didn't know much so she said to call back when someone was home who knew.

If It has had kids before is there any way to tell? I don't want to get one with a bad milk bag.


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## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

Oh and when I get one, I am not sure how to hall it. Could i tie it's legs and thow it in the back of my blazer?


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## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

Well the story is, these people bought thisngoat pregnant. Soemthingnlike that, there other goats were mean to it, so they made another pin for it. It is also traumatized, and not used to people. They said it was getting used to people though.

It is 1-2 years they think, first time kidding, it has one cut from jumping the fence when the other people had it, and they don't know what kind she is or what she was bred too.


So is it still a good deal?


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## toth boer goats (Jul 20, 2008)

> Oh and when I get one, I am not sure how to hall it. Could i tie it's legs and thow it in the back of my blazer?


 No... that isn't the proper way...and is cruel ...IMO...  can you get a large dog carrier(crate)?



> Well the story is, these people bought thisngoat pregnant. Soemthingnlike that, there other goats were mean to it, so they made another pin for it. It is also traumatized, and not used to people. They said it was getting used to people though.
> 
> It is 1-2 years they think, first time kidding, it has one cut from jumping the fence when the other people had it, and they don't know what kind she is or what she was bred too.
> 
> So is it still a good deal?


 She will need a buddy....goats are herd animals and need a companion to be healthy.... You can calm her down with time...love and treats..... Sounds like ...she hasn't had a good life or treated quite right.... poor girl.... goats are very loving ...when given the chance...


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## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

Shat I am goingnto do is find a wether , or if she has a doe keep it, and she wil have buddies.

The people said they don't have enough time to spend with her, so they are sell her.

I do have a wire cage but I doubt a goat would fit.


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## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

The person called back and said it was a bora it sounded like, so they mean a boer? It look like a Nubian to me. 

I wonderi what it was bred to????


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## jaycee (Aug 3, 2011)

Im thinking you could haul a goat in the back of your blazer but you dont need to tie its feet. If you are worried it will get too rowdy and jump in the front seat with you, what about just putting a couple bales of straw between the seats to keep it in the back?

I've hauled goats in the backseat of a fullsize chevy car but they were pretty docile...


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## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

If that one does indeed have boer here are more options I found. Thanks to everyone for being so helpful to a newbie.

The pregnant other one i am not sure of we will call option 1.

Option 2 . http://boise.craigslist.org/grd/2920677478.html

Option3. 
http://boise.craigslist.org/grd/2929668405.html

Option 4.
http://boise.craigslist.org/grd/2950510258.html

And this one, even thugh it is not milking 
Option 5 http://boise.craigslist.org/grd/2892280674.html

So your opinions good or bad are welcome.


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## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

Anyone?


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## Hobbyfarmer (Sep 7, 2011)

I really like the mini lamancha (option 2). 3/4th of a gallon is great for her size and how long ago she freshened. It would be better if she was pregnant or freshened this year but at this point you could milk her through till next year. She is producing almost as much as both of the Nubian does combined (approximately 8lbs of milk per gallon). Also looks healthy from the pictures (assuming they are current).

I'm still a little unclear on what you want the goat for. Just a family milker? Go for the mini LaMancha if she's a friendly, tame, easy milker. Seems like a good buy.


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## Hobbyfarmer (Sep 7, 2011)

Also I transport goats in the back of my Lexus Rx without problems. I just put down some visqueen (tarp would work too) and a flake of straw for bedding. They calm right down and usually "hold it" till we get home. These have always been tame goats.


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## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

Ya, pretty much a family milker, and i might use the milk to raise a calf on. and i would like to breed it ever year, and sell the kids to help pay for the food. i don't know about minis though. i haven't hear much about them.


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## Frosty1 (Jul 12, 2011)

I also like the looks of the MiniMancha. That, or I would contact the person with the reg. LaMancha and see if they can get some better pics. I personally do not like the looks of the Nubian. Her coat looks scruffy. JMO.


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## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

if i got the mini mancha, what would i breed her to?


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## xymenah (Jul 1, 2011)

You would have to breed her to another mini breed such as a Nigerian Dwarf, Pygmy, or another mini cross breed.


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## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

Hmm, well I will about the mini. Just I think I want a full sized.


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## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

This one is a really good price? What kind is it? Should I jump on it?


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## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

Lol. Forgot the link http://boise.craigslist.org/grd/2965627874.html


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## keren (Oct 26, 2008)

If you really want some advice on what you need to do it your situation, the answer is NOT buy a goat. Not yet anyway.

It sounds like you need to do some serious research, I think you are putting the cart before the horse and jumping in way too blind.

*1. Research*. Get yourself a good book (for the basics for newbies I like Storeys Guide to Raising Dairy Goats) or jump on the net and start reading. Fias Co Farm is a good site for info. Learn to know the breeds. Read about their behaviour. Read what they need to eat and see if you can get it easily at your local feed stores or whatever. Read about fencing requirements. Read about pregnancy, birthing and milking. Talk to neighbours who have goats, ask to come see their farm and how they do things. At the same time ask them to show you how to handle a goat.

2. *Organise your fencing NOW* - BEFORE you buy a goat. There is nothing worse than getting a goat home and then realising the fencing is inadequate, and she keeps getting out in new places and you keep patching it up and all you end up with is a frustrated owner and a goat who has learned to escape. Additionally, goats NEED shelter - a simple shed bedded down well with straw is fine. Organise your predator protection too - be it fencing (electric, barb, chain link etc) or a livestock guardian animal (alpaca, llama, donkey, livestock guardian dog) or simply locking them inside at night.

3. *Buy feed* - BEFORE you buy a goat. Have a good storage of hay and the grain of your choice.

4. Understand that goats NEED the company of other goats - you MUST buy two at the same time, there is no point buying a pregnant doe with plans of keeping one of her offspring as company. She needs company during the pregnancy. A lonely goat will go stir crazy and become loud and destructive.

5. Organise health supplies and kidding supplies before your bring your goat home. Get a phone number of a local vet who can treat your goat if she gets sick. Refer to point 1 to be able to identify if she is sick and needing veterinary assistance.

6. Forget these craigslist postings and find a breeder of goats who can sell one to you. As a beginner you do not want any of these goats. They all appear to have some behavioural problems which can definitely be corrected but by someone experienced in goats. For your first time around, you want a doe who is friendly and easy to handle, has been raised correctly so she is healthy, has been tested negative for CAE, CL and Johnes, who has kidded before and reared her kids and been milked so she knows it all, and from a breeder who will continue to assist and advise you as you need it. Yes it is going to cost you more to buy a goat from a breeder than off craigslist, but at the end of the day the craigslist goat often isnt the cheapest option in the long run. I would suggest you decide which breed you would like, and find a breeder close to you.

7. Your potential new goat is a female, not an object. Thus, you should refer to her as 'she' not 'it'. Its just polite.

Good luck with your new goat venture - they truly are lovely creatures


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## Frosty1 (Jul 12, 2011)

^^ Keren, very well put, and I completely agree. :thumb:


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## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

i actually have already went out and tuned the fence up. i just need to put a board across a spot and it should be good to go.


i just checked out feed prices, so i will go get some.

there is a large animal vet about 15 miles away, i will see if they do goats. also, i have a relative that is a vet, she probably has sources. she couldn't come and actually look at the goat. she is in califonia.

i think i am either going to get a wether or another doe. would it be okay if it wasn't and adult?

well unfortunately goats aren't that popular. there isn't any breeders around me. i found out the neighbor, just buys the cheap goats at sales. they also have all different kids from meat to dairy. all they do is bred and sell for meat. so i don't know about them.



but did the doe in the post look good? her feet looked trimmed, she didn't look thin,? i just want to train my eye, to tell what healthy goat looks like.

oh. and for the guard dog part, my standard poodle lives in the pen, so nothings getting them. Elvis is very well behaved, so we won't bother the goats.


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## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

oh, and from the ears it has some lamancha?


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## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

i decided to call on it. she said they took the kids off and sold them a couple weeks ago. they milked it a few times, but then quit. the goat drinks its on milk she said. weird? the reason the doe is being sold, is they have to many goats. she produced at least a gallon when they milked her.

i might go look at it.


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## xymenah (Jul 1, 2011)

If she drinks her own milk I wouldn't even bother. A doe that does that will likely never quit and she will steal allot of milk from you.


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## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

why do they do it? that is very weird.


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## xymenah (Jul 1, 2011)

It can be because their udder got too full and they were trying to relive pressure, they still really like milk or they are just are weird like that. My does don't self suck but they will drink milk if its in a bowl.


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## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

I was thinking she was self releving also. I do have time, to break her. She is a good price, I think I mAy still go see.

I forgot about it, but I have a couple grass bales in the shed. Found them on the side of the road. They are perfectly good.


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## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

I wanted to see when they were available, and I asked about the self nursing. She said it just started, and she doesn't do it all the time.


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## keren (Oct 26, 2008)

Self sucking is a behaviour you can not correct - definitely steer clear of this one. 

A poodle is not a livestock guardian dog - and its all well and good to say he is ok with goats but it doesnt necessarily mean the goats are ok with him. I have a labrador who wouldnt hurt a fly, but if he comes into the paddock, my goats will beat the living daylights out of him, they just hate dogs.


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## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

well i found 1dairy with a bull calf. hay is suppose to go up though.

what i am thinking, is get the goat and use her milk for a while to feed the calf, then sell the calf when i wean it.

i can then use the goat for milk for the family, but it eats more than the money it saves and i will need to get another.

or i can buy this one, since it will be having kids, but i will still be out money even when i sell the kids. http://boise.craigslist.org/grd/2959593199.html


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## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

well my poodle is. he guards the chickens even. we don't have to many predators though. there is coyotes but the never come right to where the goats would be. but ya it does depend on the goats.


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## keren (Oct 26, 2008)

I feed my calves 4L of milk per day ... and the average dairy goat here in Australia produces 4L per day, so you are looking at one goat per calf if you are wanting to raise calves on goats milk, which is why I say a nurse cow is a better option as she can generally feed four calves. 

If you are looking for a cheap option for milk, a goat is not it. 

You shouldnt really keep your goats with your chickens. Apart from chicken feed being bad for them, they carry salmonella and a bunch of other things which will kill a goat very quickly if they get infected.


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## keren (Oct 26, 2008)

Oops should have put the conversion in there. So if I have converted it right you will need to feed a calf 1 gallon a day, and be sure that whatever goat you buy is going to produce that. Which is why it would be better to go with a breeder who has milk records that you can see.


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## J.O.Y. Farm (Jan 10, 2012)

^ agreed


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## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

Well all I found is one calf. So 1 milk goatplus a wether.

The chickens and goats would be separate.


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## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

I don't know what I should do also, as calves die very easy. I will sleep on it.


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## ptgoats45 (Nov 28, 2011)

Calves don't neccessarily die easily. Just depends on how they were treated at the dairy. Most dairies won't give bull calves any colostrum, if they don't get that they will almost always die. If they don't get enough they will typically get scours and die of dehydration. I've raised several calves, some jerseys and some beef calves, the beefs seem to be a little hardier, but we have had the jerseys live. Just make sure they got colostrum, if you can try to get one that is at least a week old, by then they are usually a lot sturdier. If the calf starts to scour, get electrolytes into him ASAP, do not wait. Electrolytes will rehydrate and revive the calf.

I would get the goat first though and make sure she is producing at least a gallon a day as that is typically what I feed my calves when they are small. Once they get bigger and want more I will up them to 1 1/2 gallons per day, as they get even older I will drop the amount of milk some and add some water, so they are still getting the same amount of liquid, but less water. Keeps them a little fuller.

Since you are new to goats, I would buy a tame goat that has already been trained to milk. The goat will be much easier to handle and more patient as you learn how to milk. You will get frustrated very easily, not to mention exhausted trying to train a wild 160-200 lb goat to be milked, let alone get on a milk stand. Goats are super strong, kind of like deer, people always under-estimate their strength and wind up getting hurt in the process.


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## nubians2 (Feb 20, 2011)

I don't know your exact location but if you are towards Mtn. Home there a couple of vets that I have used for goats. One is Dr Patridge of Mobile Vet and also Dr Burnette of Knights Vet Clinic. Burnette disbudd's the babies at a reasonable price. There are people that allow their buck to be leased out for 30 days or do a driveway breeding for a minimal fee. You can advertise for that in the fall around breeding time on CL. You can also go out to the Idaho dairy goat assoc. and they list who does breeding. It will be difficult to find herds that are tested in this area because many don't. It is very frustrating! I went all the way to Washington to purchase a couple of mine because of that. 

I agree with ptgoats on buying a goat that has been milked on a stand before. It takes time to train them and alot of frustration. It is also a huge commitment to milk every day, every 12 hours. You also need them to trust you. I would highly recommend borrowing a dog kennel to transport her or a way to humanly restrain her when you go to get her. I know you wouldn't get off my property with a goat you purchased from me by tying her legs and putting her in the back of the blazer. Many other goat owners will feel the same way.


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## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

I was just brain storming about tying the feet. I think I will sit in the back and keep it calm while someone else drives.

I am in Caldwell.

Well, I think I will take my risks on this doe. I will try to break her or self nursing. I need to find a wether too.

I will ask and see if the bull has had his colostrum. 



How long after giving birth should you wait before re-breeding??


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## ptgoats45 (Nov 28, 2011)

Most dairy goats are seasonal breeders and will only come in heat (if you don't know "heat" is when the doe is receptive to the buck and when she will ovulate, she will only allow the buck to breed her while she is in heat) Sept-March, some will cycle as early as August. If she just kidded you would be better off to wait until fall to breed her as you have to dry the doe up, or stop milking 3 months after they are bred so they have 2 months to be dry.

For the self-nursing, you can try folding a towel up small and duct taping it around her neck (not too tight) to create a sort of barrier so she can't turn her head all the way around. They also make a collar for dogs called a "No Bite" collar, if you do a google search for it you will also find a link where someone used a towel rather than buying the collar. She may quit if she just gets milked out regularly, but I would try to keep a close eye on her to see if she is still nursing or not.


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## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

I thought about the towel, as that's what my vet did when the dog was trying to pull his stitches out after being neutered. We tried hot sauce first but he liked it off. I thought maybe a towel wouldn't work for a goat, but I guess I can try that.

I think I am going to get the goat depending on how it looks, then get the calf. I am getting the calf for a good price too. 

Question, i am going to worm it, I have ivermectin so how much?


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## Hobbyfarmer (Sep 7, 2011)

Check out the Goat Sense 101 part of the forum. viewforum.php?f=26

It's packed full of helpful information including dosages for common medications.

Best of luck with your new acquisitions.


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## jaycee (Aug 3, 2011)

I hope you the best of luck with your endeavors but would reiterate that in my limited experience, if your primary motivation is to find an economical means of raising bucket calves... I'm fairly certain keeping goats is not it...


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## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

Thanks. I am going to get the calf tomorrow. I will go look at the goat today.

The calf is 2 days old and has had colostrum.

Shoul I do 50 goat and 50 water for the first bottle?


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## Frosty1 (Jul 12, 2011)

Congratulations on the new calf! I would not mix in any water if it were me. I would give the calf straight milk.  JMO.


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## Goat Song (May 4, 2011)

jaycee said:


> I hope you the best of luck with your endeavors but would reiterate that in my limited experience, if your primary motivation is to find an economical means of raising bucket calves... I'm fairly certain keeping goats is not it...


I have to agree... Good luck with your new goat! But I do think that you'll find it much more expensive than you originally hoped for. I've found that the cheapest way for me to raise a calf without having a nurse cow is to buy a 50 lb. bag of milk replacer from the feed store.


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## keren (Oct 26, 2008)

Ditto what caitlyn said. 

And there is no reason to water down the goat milk


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## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

i read it is better to transition them over with half water half milk., but you guys are the experts.

i got the goat!! they wanted 145 and i got it for $115. she is half lamancha half nubian. they said she produces about a gallon. i guess i will see tomorrow when i milk her. i need to make a milk stand for her. if someone holds her collar i can milk her relatively easy. now i need to find her a friend. after i got her I examined her more and i fond a small lump sort of like a mole, close to one of her teats. i am going to have it byetopicied how ever you spell it. she has horns, that is the only thing i don't like. 

i read that the eyelid should be a nice pink color, if it wasn't she was wormy. it was a nice vibrant pink so i guess she is okay. i am still going to worm. also her hoves were a little weird, probably just need a little trimming. 

anyway, my fence is 4 ft, i hope she can't get out.


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## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

Oh also, should I pastureize the milk and strain it for the calf or not? Do I need to heat it up more or just strait from the goat to the bottle is fine?

How should I reheat the milk? If I save some to feed later shoul I pastureize it?


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## keren (Oct 26, 2008)

Straight from goat to bottle to calf is fine as long as it doesnt cool down in between. In fact I quite often milk straight into bottles, then all I have to do is pop the teat on and its ready to feed. I would only strain it if it gets lots of hair or dirt in it - you should trim her udder and belly to avoid this, and get into the habit of rubbing her belly before you start milking, this shakes and loose hair and dirt off so it doesnt land in your milk. 

You can reheat the milk in the microwave or on the stovetop or you can sit the bottle in a bucket of hot water. 

The lump on her teat could be anything, from scar tissue to a supernumery teat. If you post a picture of it we might be able to help diagnose. I would imagine a biopsy would be very expensive not to mention difficult to take a sample without damaging the delicate teats. 

You can tie her to a fence while milking so you dont need a helper to hold her collar.

If you feed her milk to goat kids or lambs, and she hasnt been tested negative for CAE, you will need to pasturise the milk. For the calf it should be ok raw. 

You can take a faecal sample to a vet if you are concerned about worms, they will be able to tell you if she needs to be wormed or not. It is good that her membranes are pink. She did look very healthy in the ad. 

Again with the feet if you post a picture we can help guide you as to how to correctly trim them, if you wish. 

You can freeze the milk or it will last in the fridge from a few days up to a week. 

Congratulations on your new goat! Now, dont delay in getting her a friend. I would worry constantly if I had one by itself.


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## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

Thanks for the info. She only took a couple small bite of grain so far. I need to go to the feed store vtoday.

What mineral do I need? Do I need alfalfa pellets? I am getting goat chow also.

I actually have an aunt to is a vet. She is passing through, so I thought she could test the lump at the lab. If you don't think it's anything maybe I won't haver he do it then. I wil try to get pics, of it and the feet.

Tying her really helped while milking. I got 2 pound 3 ounces. She wasn't letting down very well either, might go back and try again.
The dog helped also, she doesn't like him very well, so he is on the outside of the pen, so while she is watching him and making a funny sound I get to milk. Works good. I am going to build a milking station though.


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## KW Farms (Jun 21, 2008)

Just go to the feed store and see what minerals they have. Look for a goat specific mineral...if you don't see any...ask an employee. If they don't carry goat minerals...go with the next best thing...a cattle mineral. A milking doe should be on quality hay...I really recommend alfalfa or an alfalfa mix. What was she on at her previous home? You'll want to slowly transition her onto your hay. I'd get a dairy goat grain for her. 

Have your aunt take a look at the lump to determine what needs to be done. In the meantime, I would not be drinking her milk just to be safe.

While milking, your dog needs to be out of sight for the time being. That's likely why she's not letting all the milk down...she's scared. That noise...they will do that when they're nervous. I'd be careful not to stress her to much since you just got her. That stress can cause problems and you may be seeing quite a decrease in your milk along with possible health issues. So take it slow and make her comfortable. And start looking for a buddy for her asap. :hi5:


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## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

They said she was on, alfalfa/ any hay and grain. I have grass hay and alfalfa I gave her both. She drank water and ate some oats from my hand. And a little bite of hay. The dog leaves her alone so she should be okay.

Her feet were horrible! I didn't know exactly what to look for and it was getting late so I didn't really check them. I don't thunk they have ever been trimmed. I took some sharp scissor things I had, and cut off what she would tolerate. I cut a whole bunch of the tips. There still is way more to do though. Is her feet sensitive now, because of clipping? Tomorrow I want to work on her leading, but I don't want to hurt her feet.

She is quite friendly bug stubborn. Any ideas on how to not let her kick while milking? I tied her up and the dog distracted her today, but that won't work as she is getting use to him, and it is stressful.


Oh I got the calf!!! He is so cute! I will be getting another one as soon as one is born. Holstein 3 days old $150!


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## naturalgoats (Jan 3, 2011)

Her feet may well be sore. I would be careful and watch to see if she seems tender. If you post photos here of them we can help you know how best to trim them. Do they smell nasty? If so she might have hoof rot. since you have an aunt vet I'd definitely ask her to give your girl a going over to see if there are any issues you might have missed. I will reiterate what others have said and say that however nice your dog may be he is scaring the wits out of her and she will not milk as well or be as healthy with the stress of him around. 
M.


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## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

I have been keeping the dog away mostly. He wants to play and she doesn't. I got a little over a cup from her today. I had to smash her against the side and basically my shoulder was holding a leg. The dog was tied up away but she was watching and distractedl.I gave her food, but she only takes a bite.


Any good designs to make a milking stand, or at least some thing to hold Her head?

The people I got her from were I think Russian. Any Russian names to name her?


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## MarthaBella (Mar 15, 2012)

I built this milking stanchion...it was SUPER easy (and I'm NO carpenter!) and pretty inexpensive.

http://www.motherearthnews.com/Do-It-Yo ... chion.aspx

I used materials I had on hand and just bought the things I didn't have (like the 1x12's and some hardware). I have been using it for close to a year and it's held up pretty well. It makes it SOOO easy to milk my doe! If I were you I'd make building it top priority becuase it made such a big difference for me milking my first goat. I would also tie the dog up where she can't see it while you are milking...behind the house or barn or something like that. I know my Martha would not let her milk down if she had a dog to stare at...she HATES dogs, even the little ShiTzu my friend brought over one day...it didn't bark or threaten in any way but Martha still stared and sneezed at him until he left the area around the goat pen.


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## MarthaBella (Mar 15, 2012)

Oh, and here is a great site with Russian names!

http://masterrussian.com/aa031001a.shtml

I like Anastasiya personally! That way you are starting your herd with an "A" name...the next goat can be a "B" name (or "V" in Russian, I guess).


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## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

Thanks for the sites. I like anastasiya too, maybe....

I will go see what wod is laying around. First lunch.


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## sphynxcrazy (Apr 16, 2012)

I think I am going to do it out of PVC. I can only find the plan for the ND so I will modify the head gate a little.


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## Di (Jan 29, 2008)

Have you built your stand yet? I'd like to see the pic or plans if possible. I need a bigger stand for my Alpine. 

I was late to this discussion, but, I've read through...how's it going now? I chuckled about the calf price...pretty good I guess. But, I remember when (lol), you could just "show up" at the dairy and they'd usually give you a bull calf. I don't know why they can't be bothered to give the little guys some colostrum...good you found one that does.

Hope she's milking well for you. Have patience. Good luck.


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## keren (Oct 26, 2008)

I hear ya on that one Di, I've got many dairy bull calves for free, or $5 to $20  usually they need a bit of intensive care, colostrum and antibiotics etc but if you know what you are doing you can pull them through


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