# boer buckling



## Nibaga

hi guys i would like to know what u guys think of these 2 boer bucklings.
they are about 3 weeks old..
thank you guys


----------



## LibertysBoerGoatRanch

What are you plan on using them for? Personally if they were born on my farm I'd wether them and send them to freezer camp.


----------



## nancy d

Yeah I agree with LibertyBoer. They just don't have the mass you are looking for in a buck.


----------



## toth boer goats

For 3 weeks old, they do seem like they are not filling out any. 

Do they get creep feed at all? Grain? Alfalfa hay?

Have you gotten a fecal for worms and cocci?
They are at the right age for either one. 

Is the Sire and dam well muscled and have good bone structure or basic boers?

I usually evaluate mine at 1 month old to see where they are going. So these boys are a week off of when I judge them. But her it goes anyway. 

I do like the #133 buck more than the other one. But he has a feminine look to him right now. Is he only getting a milk diet perhaps? 

#135 I would band him. Nothing stands out to me about him.

A good question is what are you wanting to use him for or are you wanting to sell them as bucks?


----------



## Nibaga

thanks guys for all the replies.. i would like to buy it to use them to crossbred our feral goats in the Philippines. Sire and dam are imported from Australia. I wanted to get this guy #137 but its already been reserved. so i got only choices from those 2 bucklings. i uploaded the dam (itzy) and sire (mr scrooge) of #133


In the phil, alfa alfa don't grow well in some region. so basically readily available forages are, napier grass, indigofera madre de agua, madre de cacao to name some.

I've been searching for loose minerals in the phil market but could not find likes the one in the U.S I only found mineral feed mix do you guys think its ok to give it to goats as their loose mineral? the contents are
Per 500 g: Dicalcium phosphate 97%, vits A 150,000 I.U., D3 30,000 I.U., E 500 I.U., potassium iodide 100 mg, manganese sulfate 3,500 mg, ferrous sulfate 3,500 mg, copper sulfate 1,500 mg, cobalt sulfate 1,500 mg, zinc sulfate 200 mg.

sorry guys for asking too much.

#144 is available too.

thank you


----------



## catharina

Are you planning to use their offspring for meat or dairy? If dairy, then you don't want to use the buckling with 4 teats by his scrotum. I can see that you might not have a lot of choices in goats if you live on a smaller island.

I'm far from an expert on minerals, but I do notice that the mix you describe has no iron or selenium. Another source of minerals that might be good for you is seaweed. I don't know if it has selenium or iron though... You may have to research local sources...


----------



## Nibaga

I would like to use them primarily for meat. You are right, there's not a lot of reputable breeders in my area, if there is, most are imported from australia which is costly. imported goats can go up to 1k to 1.5k
these bucklings are offered for 400 USD, and will be released after 4-5 months of age.

other than mineral blocks i give them biweekly injection of vitamins a b-comlex d, e. during rainy season. then every 1-2 months afterwards.

if its ok then i might try to give the mineral feed mix as their loose minerals.
for iron there's available in the market administered through injection.
and for selenium will try to ask in agriculture supply.

thank you.

picture attached are imported boers from Australia, cost about 1k minimum and up


----------



## catharina

Wow--goats are expensive there! Do you just catch the wild ones? But the wild bucks are too wild? If you have your does already I'd love to see photos of them. It might also help people to advise you on a choice of buck, if they could see the does you have-to get a buck who is strong in conformation where the does are weak.


----------



## Nibaga

its hard to catch them in the wild so, most of my does are domesticated ones.
yes its true, its expensive! their quite small compared to boer or anglo... average weight are 15-25kg. my backyard is not up par to american standard, so bear with me ,

I plan on crossbreeding them until F6 or more with different fullblood boer of each generation.
I have a percentage boer at 75%. and some of my does are pregnant.
2nd generation will be cross with fullblood boer.

and also I plan on getting a pair fb boer or 2 doelings.... and will sell their offspring if i'll be successful on breeding them. will upload pictures of those fullblood doelings

you can buy these native goats for around 40-70 usd. max and rarely at 100usd


----------



## LizWiz

I am sorry to say but the first pics posted are the size of my Boer bucks at 1.5/2 weeks old, and they are only 1/4 Boer. Deff not for breeding. - But good luck  I do understand you can only work with what you got.


----------



## LizWiz

But I think mixing wild genes with Boer is an excellent way to go ! - yes that goes against everyone opinion. But by doing this you have the lovely disease resistant genes and hoofs that don't need so maintenance. Boer goats need a lot of attention in my experience, esp on hoofs. But by breeding them with my island goats I have much hardier animals. Hope your cross breeding is a success!


----------



## Nibaga

thanks lizwiz, yeah i've notice that my percentage boer that i have now doesn't grow as fast as fb boers hoofs. Yeah. I have a friend who told me that fb boer are not hardy as much as our native goats, probably because their not accustomed to our weather, but i will take the risk. Our boer goats here are like left over boers cause they aren't as big as compared to ones that are from other countries i've seen in youtube or for instant toth boer farm hehe

thanks for the input. I need a lot of help choosing my buck or at least the best one that is available.


----------



## LizWiz

Such a shame you get 'left overs', my island is kind of the same, I do sympathise. So I have done AI (sperm straws) for my does, this way I can get good stock from high quality bucks but cheaper ! You may be lucky and get kids born that have a chunkier gene than their father, that is when you should breed that meatier kid and cull the father (sire), to bring out that meaty gene. - Thats kind of how I do it. Line breed rather than inbreed. 
Kiko goats would be perfect for your situation, meat goats and hardy. Best of luck Nibaga


----------



## LizWiz

not sure why there are numbers in my comments .. sorry


----------



## Nibaga

they do not offer A.I in my area, and have not heard of it yet. They don't even want to use their bucks for stud service. I've read about line breeding and inbreeding. Would you recommend father to daughter? the very least i've read was grand father to daughter or vice versa. and never for siblings?


----------



## toth boer goats

Thank you so much for the compliments about my goats. 

You want these ingredients in their diet. If possible, see link below.
http://www.sweetlix.com/products/C14A34/meat-maker-products.aspx

Another one:
*SE-90 with Selenium*







Selenium-deficient diets can cause multiple health issues, including heart disease and reduced reproduction. Our mineralized salt with 90 parts per million of selenium helps protect your herd against these and other diseases.


Helps maintain health and protects animals against several diseases
Works as an antioxidant
For all classes of beef cattle and horses
*GUARNTEED ANALYSIS*
Salt (NaCI) Min 95.0%
Salt (NaCI) Max 98.5%
Zinc (Zn) Min 3,500 ppm
Iron (Fe) Nim 2,000 ppm
Manganese (Mn) Min 1,800 ppm
Copper (Cu) Min 280 ppm
Copper (Cu) Max 420 ppm
Iodine (I) Min 100 ppm
Selenium (Se) Min 90 ppm
Cobalt (Co) Min 60 ppm

I get both and mix them together to get the best mixture for them.
The bucks need ammonium chloride to prevent urinary stones. Or fed a 2:1 ratio.
Some of our feeds have it in it here or you can buy the powder form. Not sure if you have access to it or not?

I still like #133 the best so far, his Sire is muscled, wide looking and big looking. His Dam isn't too bad, she is OK for a boer. So, seeing them #133 has potential if fed right and kept parasite free.

With minerals, you want, good cooper, selenium, zinc, these are some top minerals needed. the others are important too, but these are the top ones.

I do see some of your does have fishtails, which is copper deficiency. Can you get copper bolus?

Do know, iron shouldn't be fed in high levels, it cancels out copper, which is crucial for goat health.

Reasons for goats to not grow well are:

Genetics, look at the Sire and Dam for what you want in a buck. Do know, you can tell though if that buckling has what it take or not, by 1 month old. Some can change to the better or worse.

Worm loads: Be sure to keep an eye on worm load, checking the inner lower eyelids occasionally go by the famancha chart. Or getting an occasional fecal helps monitor them and when to treat and what for. Worms can stunt growth.
When you get a fecal done, have it checked for cocci and worms.

Cocci: A growth destroyer. 
I have mine on cocci prevention as they grow. If cocci strikes, it destroys the gut lining so no nutrients can be absorbed causing stunted growth. You can never get that growth back if the damage is bad and was left too long before treatment was given. After 2 weeks old, a kid can from stress, can get cocci and/or worms. Cocci doesn't always show scouring signs in adults and/or kids. 
In adults, it can be a thin doe who will not gain even if fed well, same as worms for thin, unthriftiness, rough hair, can occur.

Not fed a proper diet as they grow, like good hay, alfalfa is the best or alfalfa pellets can be put in it's place if you have some available. Also a good 16% protein grain fed in a creep feeder.

I tell breeders, just think of goat kid like human kids. 
Ask yourself this: Do we feed our children ice cream and cake when they are growing and expect them to be healthy? No, we don't, so it is the same way for goat kids. They need these things for good health and growth.

No to siblings or father to daughter.
The only way anyone could chance that is if both are really nice, no flaws. Not narrow or small boned. Because it will come back bad full fold, if they are not good in conformation, ect. It can turn out really bad or really good. All depends on the genes and flaws within them.

Sorry for the book, hope you can find something close to what I have been listing here for your goats health and grow potential.


----------



## LizWiz

Totally agree with everything you said tothboer !  Deff know where to come on the internet for advice


----------



## Nibaga

you said it well lizwiz, good thing I came across on this website. and to the wonderful members willing to help and give advice, especially on me who isn't well experience.

thank you for tips and advice toth boer, i'd definitely look in to that, for the cocci and fecal test. I don't know if they do that here, but will ask the breeder if he knows someone.

is there a specific brand name to for cocci treatment or prevention?
I've found dimethox on the internet but aren't sure if its the right 1.

For#133 and #144 both bred from the same sire, but will go on and take #133 


I will surely look into it, hopefully we have copper bolus here if not, will try to look online if they can ship it here.

I always check their eye lids once a week, and have the famencha chart with me.
I use albedenzole and ivermectin for deworming, a friend told me to switch brand so worms don't get immune. will plan to get at least 4 different types of dewormer

for selenium, I don't know yet if there's avail in the market but will ask breeders around.
for copper, I have found but copper block lick. will buy this instead if cannot find powdered ones.

Again thanks for the advice, tips and info's, really appreciate it.


----------



## catharina

I see your goats are ignoring the Jackfruit--very interesting! I wish I could grow something goats would ignore!

The feral goats there seem pretty diverse! Some are quite pretty.

Regarding AI (artificial insemination) there are classes you can take to learn to do it yourself, & I think the idea behind the advice was to use imported semen perhaps--though you'd have to check your country's laws on that. Good luck with your project!


----------



## Nibaga

Seems like their not interested much in fruits, but they do love to eat mangoes. 
most does have airplane ears hehe.. I don't know how semen importation works here but will ask info about it. 

thank you and good luck to you as well.


----------



## toth boer goats

No problem at all.
Wish you had some of the things we do, but unfortunately you may not. Some things can be ordered, depending on the law there and what is being ordered online.

Yes, ask them about cocci/worm and fecal test. 
Do you have vets there? About any vet can do a fecal test.

Dimethox is one that can be used, others are Sulmet or Corid, albon, sulfa products. 
Be sure to treat each individually as if you are treating an active case. Do not put it in the water as some of the instructions may say to do. It won't do much good. You don't know if a goat will get enough or drink enough for proper dosage.

I personally use Corid for cocci prevention and active cases. Every 21 days.
If you get the 20% powder form of corid. 
I can tell you how to mix it and dosage.

Good choice with #133 

Yes, look into amazon or other online order places. for copper bolus. 
*UltraCruz Goat Copper Bolus for adults, 25 count x 4 grams*
This 4 grams is for adults, the 2 gram stuff is for kids. DO not overdose, only use when they are showing signs. Such as fishtail or other signs.
This is the place I get my copper bolus from below,
Get a balling gun as well, the small one works. they also have ammonium chloride for bucks. Scroll down on the page 
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_...&sprefix=copper+bo,aps,235&crid=31U2CK8SOJGHK

Glad you have the famancha chart.  
Sounds like a good plan with wormers.

Find out if your area is selenium deficient first. 
If you are OK it isn't as needed as it is for us here. 
Otherwise, our vets have B0-se RX or Mu-se RX injections. It must not be overdosed though, so it is pretty touchy if the goat does not need it, can kill the goat.

Copper lick is better than noting if you cannot get the other loose minerals. The loose salt and minerals looks like fine sand. If you can, get one for cattle that will work for goats. Get the one with more selenium, zinc, iodine, copper if you can.


----------



## Nibaga

thanks toth boer, 
i will keep you posted,


----------



## catharina

My breed standard REQUIRES airplane ears! They are a feral island breed as well...


----------



## Nibaga

wo0w big buck, how old? ye i guess most of feral goats have airplane ears...


----------



## toth boer goats

You are very welcome Nibaga.


----------



## Nibaga

hi again toth boer, do you recommend manna pro goat loose minerals?
i was able to contact my relatives in the states, and willing to buy it for me. 
thanks


----------



## Suzanne_Tyler

Manna Pro minerals are pretty good.


----------



## Nibaga

thanks suzanne


----------



## mariarose

It is awesome you have people willing to ship you things. Manna Pro is great, as a starter. I don't know what else your people have available or what they'd be willing to ship. Cargill's Right Now Onyx is better than Manna Pro, as is Co-op brand Supreme Goat Mineral. Others here have good favorites, too. There are tubes of Selenium/vitamin E gel that could help you.

Don't abandon your idea of using the island does that can survive and thrive without these expensive inputs, however. You have an exciting opportunity ahead of you.

Yay for you!


----------



## mariarose

By the way, I think you chose the correct buckling as well.

If I knew where you are, I'd be willing to send you things from time to time. Send me a private message if you'd like, with your shipping address, and I'll see what I can do to help.


----------



## Honsby

#144 looked good to me but #133 has better hair it seems and that's a good marker for the in-utero conditioning it received.


----------



## toth boer goats

mariarose said:


> It is awesome you have people willing to ship you things. Manna Pro is great, as a starter. I don't know what else your people have available or what they'd be willing to ship. Cargill's Right Now Onyx is better than Manna Pro, as is Co-op brand Supreme Goat Mineral. Others here have good favorites, too. There are tubes of Selenium/vitamin E gel that could help you.
> 
> Don't abandon your idea of using the island does that can survive and thrive without these expensive inputs, however. You have an exciting opportunity ahead of you.
> 
> Yay for you!


 I do agree.
Manna pro is alright, but real expensive. 
But, better than nothing unless you can find others as mentioned. Shipping by weight though, will really be expensive.


----------



## mariarose

toth boer goats said:


> I do agree.
> Manna pro is alright, but real expensive.
> But, better than nothing unless you can find others as mentioned. Shipping by weight though, will really be expensive.


Pam, isn't it better, though, to start where he is, and go from there?

I feel so overwhelmed sometimes, because I don't see a good starting place. I have to decide on a good place and work from there..... But everyone wants me to be another place. I KNOW that goats can be a salvation here, but not by demanding modern ideals. That will only happen with lots and lots and lots of expensive inputs.....

I KNOW goats have the potential to save my state...... sigh.

So discouraged.


----------



## Nibaga

thanks all for taking the time replying on this thread.

for the shipping cost, its not going to be by weight, its per box.
we have this so called balikbayan box (you can google it). which is very common for filipino living abroad, usually cost around 75-90 usd per box. It takes at least 2-3 months to arrive.

for mariarose, thanks for the offer but i think it would cost me more if you'll ship the item directly.
how long would last a bag of manna pro of 8lb? only asked them to buy 1. I will only be having 3 boers. (will get them in Jan-Feb) I'm not sure if my island goats wants it. (currently have 14 does in the backyard) for manna pro price , i'm not quite sure because there are different prices range from 7 to 25 usd in amazon. Just in case i ran out of supply. My aunt usually sends balikabayan box once a year. For the other loose minerals mentioned, can you guys give me the direct website where to order it from? so i could advice my relatives to order it from there.

hi toth boer, for the selenium i only found injectable 1 cost around 8 USD, what do you think?
for the se-90 selenium i cannot find it in amazon.
thank you


----------



## Honsby

There are also environmental issues, e.g., pesticides, herbicides, GMO's, that might not exist in the natural ecosystem where he is and could raise some unwanted interest. 

There could be a bug in the bag that might not have any natural enemies where he is and be another problem. Sometimes you just can't do the right thing.


----------



## Nibaga

ok noted. thanks honsby.


----------



## catharina

Nibaga said:


> wo0w big buck, how old? ye i guess most of feral goats have airplane ears...


He'll be 4 in December. He's mostly fluff--only weighs 175 or so according to the tape method. Interesting observation about ears!


----------



## catharina

mariarose said:


> Don't abandon your idea of using the island does that can survive and thrive without these expensive inputs, however. You have an exciting opportunity ahead of you.
> 
> Yay for you!


This is so true! San Clemente Island Goats were exterminated as vermin for harming endangered plants. Only at the last minute did anyone wonder if there was anything special about them, & a hundred or so were rescued & placed in captive breeding programs. Since that time they've discovered that they have the most unique DNA of any breed, & are not descended from any known living breed. Their milk can have up to 6.75% butterfat & the bucks don't have scent glands so their meat has better flavor. They're also very hardy. These goats of the Phillipines may hold similar secrets!


----------



## toth boer goats

mariarose said:


> Pam, isn't it better, though, to start where he is, and go from there?
> 
> I feel so overwhelmed sometimes, because I don't see a good starting place. I have to decide on a good place and work from there..... But everyone wants me to be another place. I KNOW that goats can be a salvation here, but not by demanding modern ideals. That will only happen with lots and lots and lots of expensive inputs.....
> 
> I KNOW goats have the potential to save my state...... sigh.
> 
> So discouraged.


 He can, we just put the idea's out there and someone can go from there or not as we help introduce some new idea's for someone, that may help.

If you feel you should start somewhere else, that is fine, you don't have to be overwhelmed, just do what your heart wants to do and what is best for your herd. We are not demanding anything, it is just we give advice to help others to strive for better goats.
Anyone can take that advice or allow it to go out the other ear.  No pressure.


----------



## toth boer goats

You are welcome.

That is neat they do not charge by the pound. 
Wish they had that here. 

The loose salt and minerals can last a long time, to a very short time, it all depends on how deficient the goats are and how much they take in at first, if they have not had it, but they do slow down after their bodies are regulated. Then go for it occasionally. Cannot predict that. All goat should have access to them, so they can go get it as their bodies need it.

I usually go in my local feed store for the loose minerals. I don't order them so can't help there. 
But I am sure they do have direct order places for them. Just look up the manufacturer and the website.

That RX looks right, except here you do not get the B-12 in it, but that is perfect. Yes, it is good stuff for Selenium deficiency signs. I just don't know the mg in that. Only use it if a goat shows signs.


----------



## Nibaga

catharina said:


> This is so true! San Clemente Island Goats were exterminated as vermin for harming endangered plants. Only at the last minute did anyone wonder if there was anything special about them, & a hundred or so were rescued & placed in captive breeding programs. Since that time they've discovered that they have the most unique DNA of any breed, & are not descended from any known living breed. Their milk can have up to 6.75% butterfat & the bucks don't have scent glands so their meat has better flavor. They're also very hardy. These goats of the Phillipines may hold similar secrets!


For the scents and hardy part i agree, native buck has less odor compared to my percentage boer. i'm not sure if it because he's much bigger or what so. I've search about san clemente goat and they critically endangered, whats you're plan with your island goats?


----------



## Nibaga

toth boer goats said:


> You are welcome.
> 
> That is neat they do not charge by the pound.
> Wish they had that here.
> 
> The loose salt and minerals can last a long time, to a very short time, it all depends on how deficient the goats are and how much they take in at first, if they have not had it, but they do slow down after their bodies are regulated. Then go for it occasionally. Cannot predict that. All goat should have access to them, so they can go get it as their bodies need it.
> 
> I usually go in my local feed store for the loose minerals. I don't order them so can't help there.
> But I am sure they do have direct order places for them. Just look up the manufacturer and the website.
> 
> That RX looks right, except here you do not get the B-12 in it, but that is perfect. Yes, it is good stuff for Selenium deficiency signs. I just don't know the mg in that. Only use it if a goat shows signs.


yes, pretty lucky hehe

not a problem, will try to look for it, for the selenium, it contains 3mg
is this the only signs for selenium deficiency?
I got it from
http://thefreerangelife.com/selenium-deficiency-in-goats/

*Selenium Deficiency in Adult Goats*
Selenium deficiency in adult goats is most commonly seen in reproductive problems. This means that they:


Have poor conception rates
Experience abortions, stillbirths, and miscarriages
Retained placentas
Deliver weak, selenium deficient kids


----------



## Suzanne_Tyler

Other signs:

Tails turning down at the end
Weak pasterns
Kids with weak legs/pasterns
Rough coats


----------



## Nibaga

noted ms suzanne, thank you


----------



## toth boer goats

Have to add, when kids are born weak or have weak legs, going funny on them. Kids get a very small dose.

Our selenium injection here is called Bo-Se contains the equivalent to 1 mg selenium and 50 mg (68 USP units) vitamin E. We usually give a very small newborn boer 1/4 cc SQ or less, a bigger newborn would get 1/2 cc or less SQ. Adults get 1 cc per 40 lbs, but that is our stuff.

Also if you are not in a deficient area and the goat is slightly deficient, I would not give full dosage. Another thing is yours is much stronger, so be careful. I really don't think yours can be broken down for baby goats. 
Please get the proper dosage for goats with your stuff. It is always better to underdose, than to overdose. Overdoseing can kill the goat.

White muscle disease http://www.thejudgingconnection.com/pdfs/White_Muscle_Disease_in_Sheep_and_Goats.pdf


----------



## mariarose

@Nibaga Here is a weird idea. You live on an island, right? Is there a place where you can gather seaweed, and dry it? Or is there a source where you can buy it?

I know it won't be the exact same thing as our commercially available dried kelp, but I think it would be similar. Seaweed has many minerals, and while it won't completely replace your Boer's requirements, it may decrease the demand. And it may be perfectly adequate for your native goats.


----------



## Nibaga

mariarose said:


> @Nibaga Here is a weird idea. You live on an island, right? Is there a place where you can gather seaweed, and dry it? Or is there a source where you can buy it?
> 
> I know it won't be the exact same thing as our commercially available dried kelp, but I think it would be similar. Seaweed has many minerals, and while it won't completely replace your Boer's requirements, it may decrease the demand. And it may be perfectly adequate for your native goats.


hi, any seaweeds will do? i see lots of seaweeds wash ashore.. will go and collect them wash and dry it. thanks for this, never had cross in my mind ...thank you


----------



## Nibaga

toth boer goats said:


> Have to add, when kids are born weak or have weak legs, going funny on them. Kids get a very small dose.
> 
> Our selenium injection here is called Bo-Se contains the equivalent to 1 mg selenium and 50 mg (68 USP units) vitamin E. We usually give a very small newborn boer 1/4 cc SQ or less, a bigger newborn would get 1/2 cc or less SQ. Adults get 1 cc per 40 lbs, but that is our stuff.
> 
> Also if you are not in a deficient area and the goat is slightly deficient, I would not give full dosage. Another thing is yours is much stronger, so be careful. I really don't think yours can be broken down for baby goats.
> Please get the proper dosage for goats with your stuff. It is always better to underdose, than to overdose. Overdoseing can kill the goat.
> 
> White muscle disease http://www.thejudgingconnection.com/pdfs/White_Muscle_Disease_in_Sheep_and_Goats.pdf


thanks toth boer, will take a note on this. what med do you recommend if a goat have a cough? thank you


----------



## mariarose

Nibaga said:


> hi, any seaweeds will do? i see lots of seaweeds wash ashore.. will go and collect them wash and dry it. thanks for this, never had cross in my mind ...thank you


I don't know of any poisonous seaweed, but an internet search should show that. I would do an internet search for poisonous seaweed, then if I saw no danger, I'd try it.

Seaweed is probably why goats on ocean islands survived at all.


----------



## toth boer goats

Nibaga said:


> thanks toth boer, will take a note on this. what med do you recommend if a goat have a cough? thank you


No problem.

It all depends, there are a lot of reasons why a goat is coughing.

Is it a dry cough?
Does it happen after running?
Could be lungworms, give Ivomec cattle injectable orally, 1 cc per 33 lbs, then 10 days later, 3 x, 10 days apart, only if the goat is not anemic. 
Or any other wormer that takes care of lungworms.
If the goat is preggo be sure the wormer is safe to use.

Eating too fast. Can happen occasionally.

Dust: try to get the dust down or move the goat out of the area. Feed can be dusty as well.

Sometimes allergies but usually yo see a snotty nose, the goats acts normal otherwise. 
Benadryl or an antihistamine can be used.
____________________________
Is it wet?
Is the goat lethargic 
head/tail down
not eating.
Snotty nose?
Get a temp if you see any of this. 
High temp? Normal temp is 101.5 to 103.5 
Treat for pneumonia.

Good pneumonia antibiotics are: 
Nuflor RX if you can get it

Draxin RX if you can get it
La200 Oxytetracycline (stings)or Biomycin 200 1cc per 20lbs, 5 days SQ. Not safe for preggo's unless they have an aborting disease, then it is used late term to save her babies.

Penicillin Procane G, if there is nothing else around, 1cc per 20lbs for 5 days, every 12 hours SQ, 2 x a day. ALWAYS draw back on the syringe with penicillin to see if you see blood in the syringe, if so, remove and find another location.

Tylan200 1cc per 20lbs every 12 hours SQ, 5 days, (does sting). May not be safe for preggo's.

Not sure what antibiotics you have access too.

Do you have a sick goat now?


----------



## toth boer goats

Not sure about seaweed straight from the ocean.


----------



## Nibaga

toth boer goats said:


> No problem.
> 
> It all depends, there are a lot of reasons why a goat is coughing.
> 
> Is it a dry cough?
> Does it happen after running?
> Could be lungworms, give Ivomec cattle injectable orally, 1 cc per 33 lbs, then 10 days later, 3 x, 10 days apart, only if the goat is not anemic.
> Or any other wormer that takes care of lungworms.
> If the goat is preggo be sure the wormer is safe to use.
> 
> Eating too fast. Can happen occasionally.
> 
> Dust: try to get the dust down or move the goat out of the area. Feed can be dusty as well.
> 
> Sometimes allergies but usually yo see a snotty nose, the goats acts normal otherwise.
> Benadryl or an antihistamine can be used.
> ____________________________
> Is it wet?
> Is the goat lethargic
> head/tail down
> not eating.
> Snotty nose?
> Get a temp if you see any of this.
> High temp? Normal temp is 101.5 to 103.5
> Treat for pneumonia.
> 
> Good pneumonia antibiotics are:
> Nuflor RX if you can get it
> 
> Draxin RX if you can get it
> La200 Oxytetracycline (stings)or Biomycin 200 1cc per 20lbs, 5 days SQ. Not safe for preggo's unless they have an aborting disease, then it is used late term to save her babies.
> 
> Penicillin Procane G, if there is nothing else around, 1cc per 20lbs for 5 days, every 12 hours SQ, 2 x a day. ALWAYS draw back on the syringe with penicillin to see if you see blood in the syringe, if so, remove and find another location.
> 
> Tylan200 1cc per 20lbs every 12 hours SQ, 5 days, (does sting). May not be safe for preggo's.
> 
> Not sure what antibiotics you have access too.
> 
> Do you have a sick goat now?


available antibiotics where i get my supplies are terramycin la, Oxytetracycline and enrofloxacin.
all of them are acting normal and tails are up. just coughing but no snotty nose. i have 3 of them coughing already, although they are eating well. I have already isolate them away from the herd.
I will try benadryl and if it worsen, i'll use antibiotic, what do you think? can this be administer even they are pregnant? thank you


----------



## Nibaga

mariarose said:


> I don't know of any poisonous seaweed, but an internet search should show that. I would do an internet search for poisonous seaweed, then if I saw no danger, I'd try it.
> 
> Seaweed is probably why goats on ocean islands survived at all.


I will try it with my native goats, will only try to get seaweeds that aren't poisonous for human consumption,
thank u


----------



## toth boer goats

Nibaga said:


> available antibiotics where i get my supplies are terramycin la, Oxytetracycline and enrofloxacin.
> all of them are acting normal and tails are up. just coughing but no snotty nose. i have 3 of them coughing already, although they are eating well. I have already isolate them away from the herd.
> I will try benadryl and if it worsen, i'll use antibiotic, what do you think? can this be administer even they are pregnant? thank you


Oh my, these are not safe for preggo's, terramycin la, Oxytetracycline.
Never heard of enrofloxacin. So cannot advise there.

To me, if the goats are acting normal otherwise, it can be lungsworms early signs or dust from their feed or the area they are in is dusty. 
Check if their noses are they dirty, maybe wipe them out if they are and see if that helps.

When their feed is pulled apart when feeding them, any dust poof out? Not sure if you have feed bales or what method it is.


----------



## Nibaga

Usually fed with fresh grass and leaves. i gave them benadryl and injected vitamins a d e with b complex, see how it goes 
thank you


----------



## toth boer goats

Good luck.


----------



## mariarose

To me, that sounds like no dust.

Keep what you are feeding off the ground and away from parasites.


----------

