# Possibly buying this goat for meat or milk. What do you think?



## healthyishappy

she is a Nubian/pygmy.


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## ksalvagno

She looks generally healthy. Probably needs minerals.


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## goatblessings

If you want her for milk - check her mom's udder and size of teats. Very small teats are VERY difficult to milk. Because she is a cross, you should breed her with a smaller buck when the time comes. Also ask if the herd has been tested for CAE/Johnes.


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## mariarose

Kinders are Nubian/Pygmy crosses, so look into them for more general information.

I think she looks nice. As said already, ask about blood testing and get her some minerals, and a goat buddy. Goats don't do well as singles (as a general truth)


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## healthyishappy

ksalvagno said:


> She looks generally healthy. Probably needs minerals.


yep I noticed that too.


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## healthyishappy

goatblessings said:


> If you want her for milk - check her mom's udder and size of teats. Very small teats are VERY difficult to milk. Because she is a cross, you should breed her with a smaller buck when the time comes. Also ask if the herd has been tested for CAE/Johnes.


Will do.
Why breed her with a smaller buck?


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## healthyishappy

mariarose said:


> and a goat buddy.


What do you mean by that?
I already have four goats.


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## healthyishappy

These are pics of her teats.
So having her for milk goat would be not the best idea.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4THuU0yccykS2EzUkhxaDc5a1d2MXppQmlGNlRCb1poNzFJ


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## Dwarf Dad

healthyishappy said:


> These are pics of her teats.
> So having her for milk goat would be not the best idea.
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4THuU0yccykS2EzUkhxaDc5a1d2MXppQmlGNlRCb1poNzFJ


I tried the link to your photo, it said "the image was trashed by owner. Image is in the trash."


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## healthyishappy

Dwarf Dad said:


> I tried the link to your photo, it said "the image was trashed by owner. Image is in the trash."


Whoops!!!
I'll fix that.


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## healthyishappy

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Iqa1eqcM6lDCdGKGHLG-IqJ1Whmxxijj


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## healthyishappy

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JiGL8OPMgJXT003n_oHiV53elWCEbN4O/view?usp=sharing


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## mariarose

OOPS! I was sleepy, Nathan, and actually forgot who I was writing to. Of course she won't be a single.

Kinders are smaller goats, so you won't want to breed her to large standard buck.

If she's young, there's plenty of time to develop her teats for milking.
Here is the protocol I follow for developing milking teats and udder
http://glimmercroft.com/Udder.html


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## healthyishappy

mariarose said:


> OOPS! I was sleepy, Nathan, and actually forgot who I was writing to. Of course she won't be a single.


:heehee:


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## healthyishappy

mariarose said:


> Kinders are smaller goats, so you won't want to breed her to large standard buck.


Ok so I have to breed her to a pygmy?
Or could I breed her to an alpine?


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## healthyishappy

mariarose said:


> If she's young, there's plenty of time to develop her teats for milking.
> Here is the protocol I follow for developing milking teats and udder
> http://glimmercroft.com/Udder.html


She was 1 year in February.
Never kidded.
I will follow that protocol.


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## mariarose

You can breed her to any breed that would be the same size or smaller than she is. SOME families of the standards throw small kids as a rule but eventually grow full size. I've used that strategy, but until you really know what you are doing, it really is best to stick with one of the smaller breeds. That means not Alpines, which are quite large.

Any of the smaller breeds would do. Pygmy would make the offspring more meaty, Nigerian Dwarves would make them more dairy, the mini breeds (including other kinders) would all work. Some Fainters are medium sized, that should work. San Clementes, etc.

What do you have around you?

Don't choose just because of size. You still have all the other considerations, too. Always keep in mind wanting to improve your herd by using the best bucks you can.


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## MellonFriend

Just out of curiosity, do you know if her parents were full Nubian and full pygmy, because if they were registered you could register her to the kinder breeder association and get a higher price for her kids if you plan on selling.

To me she doesn't look super pureblooded, but I've just started doing this.


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## healthyishappy

MellonFriend said:


> Just out of curiosity, do you know if her parents were full Nubian and full pygmy, because if they were registered you could register her to the kinder breeder association and get a higher price for her kids if you plan on selling.
> 
> To me she doesn't look super pureblooded, but I've just started doing this.


Nope but i'll ask.


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## healthyishappy

mariarose said:


> You can breed her to any breed that would be the same size or smaller than she is. SOME families of the standards throw small kids as a rule but eventually grow full size. I've used that strategy, but until you really know what you are doing, it really is best to stick with one of the smaller breeds. That means not Alpines, which are quite large.
> 
> Any of the smaller breeds would do. Pygmy would make the offspring more meaty, Nigerian Dwarves would make them more dairy, the mini breeds (including other kinders) would all work. Some Fainters are medium sized, that should work. San Clementes, etc.
> 
> What do you have around you?
> 
> Don't choose just because of size. You still have all the other considerations, too. Always keep in mind wanting to improve your herd by using the best bucks you can.


Ok I just thought because the sire was a nubian and the dam was a pygmy it would be fine.


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## healthyishappy

She has not been tested for cae/johnes and has only been getting a salt block for minerals. She also does not get dewormed but they give her black walnut leaves.


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## mariarose

healthyishappy said:


> Ok I just thought because the sire was a nubian and the dam was a pygmy it would be fine.


Well, as I said, it CAN work out. But it can go HORRIBLY wrong.


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## healthyishappy

mariarose said:


> Well, as I said, it CAN work out. But it can go HORRIBLY wrong.


I agree.


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## healthyishappy

mariarose said:


> What do you have around you?


The breeder I go to only has an alpine, nubian, nigerian bucks.
Thats why I was going to get a pygmy/nubian so I could breed to a nubian.
I don't want fullbred nubians because my experience with that wasn't to good.
So should I buy a buck or just breed it to the nigerian?
She probably could be a good milk goat because she would have nubian, nigerian, and pygmy.


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## mariarose

I understand completely what you are saying, but I can not in good conscience recommend that a beginner go down the path of breeding mini does to standard bucks. 

But you are a small operator, and you are financing this completely on your own!!! So perhaps buying a buck isn't right for you at the moment. And if you don't want to stay producing small goats but ultimately want standards, then breeding to a dwarf won't move you toward your dreams. 

If you do breed her to a Nigerian, what kind of market will you have for her 1/2 ND, 1/4 Pygmy, 1/4 Nubian kids? Especially the bucklings? Half her kids will be bucklings without a lot of monetary value. Are you fine with that? I'm just asking questions here.

Maybe this isn't the right purchase for you at this time?

I don't have anything against her, in fact I really like her. I'm just asking you to consider, what makes the most sense for you at this point?

Or I'm just being a fuss budget...
What do YOU want?


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## toth boer goats

I agree :up:


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## healthyishappy

mariarose said:


> I understand completely what you are saying, but I can not in good conscience recommend that a beginner go down the path of breeding mini does to standard bucks.
> 
> But you are a small operator, and you are financing this completely on your own!!! So perhaps buying a buck isn't right for you at the moment. And if you don't want to stay producing small goats but ultimately want standards, then breeding to a dwarf won't move you toward your dreams.
> 
> If you do breed her to a Nigerian, what kind of market will you have for her 1/2 ND, 1/4 Pygmy, 1/4 Nubian kids? Especially the bucklings? Half her kids will be bucklings without a lot of monetary value. Are you fine with that? I'm just asking questions here.
> 
> Maybe this isn't the right purchase for you at this time?
> 
> I don't have anything against her, in fact I really like her. I'm just asking you to consider, what makes the most sense for you at this point?
> 
> Or I'm just being a fuss budget...
> What do YOU want?


Hmm.... decisions decisions.
Yes the kids would not be worth much except meat.
I was planning to sell the kids for meat anyway.
So I guess I'll just have to see what kind of a milker and either sell her or keep her for meat.


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## healthyishappy

I really would like nubians but don't want a full sized one.
So maybe I would be better off looking for a nubian/nigerian.
Then the kids would be 3/4 nigerian 1/4 nubian.
but pygmys do have good butterfat they just aren't as "dairy" as nigerians
So if she no good as a milker I would still have big bodied meat goat.


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## mariarose

Then consider finding a Kinder buck(ling), or even a Mini-Nubian buck(ling), and using him on all your does.

How far away can you look for a buck?


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## healthyishappy

mariarose said:


> Then consider finding a Kinder buck(ling), or even a Mini-Nubian buck(ling), and using him on all your does.
> 
> How far away can you look for a buck?


hour or two if I really begged my parents.


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## healthyishappy

mariarose said:


> Then consider finding a Kinder buck(ling), or even a Mini-Nubian buck(ling), and using him on all your does.


i'll look.


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## mariarose

In case you don't know the difference...
A Kinder is a Nubian/Pygmy cross, and then bred to other Kinders to get to the higher "F" number.

A Mini-Nubian is a Nubian/Nigerian Dwarf cross and then bred to other Mini-Nubians to get the higher "F" number.

The first crossing of the 2 purebreds is an F-1 and it goes up from there.
There are other regulations, too. This is just a quick summary.

And you still want all the other good qualities, too. Breeding animals with poor conformation or major problems just because they are the right breeds is poor economy in the long run.


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## healthyishappy

mariarose said:


> In case you don't know the difference...
> A Kinder is a Nubian/Pygmy cross, and then bred to other Kinders to get to the higher "F" number.
> 
> A Mini-Nubian is a Nubian/Nigerian Dwarf cross and then bred to other Mini-Nubians to get the higher "F" number.
> 
> The first crossing of the 2 purebreds is an F-1 and it goes up from there.
> There are other regulations, too. This is just a quick summary.
> 
> And you still want all the other good qualities, too. Breeding animals with poor conformation or major problems just because they are the right breeds is poor economy in the long run.


Ok. I have lots of mini-Nubians bucks in my area but no kinders.


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## MellonFriend

http://kindergoatbreeders.com/breeders/
Something to aid your search.


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## MellonFriend

Woops I might have mean late on the updates.


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## MellonFriend

Jeepers there's not a kinder breeder in your entire state.


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## mariarose

MellonFriend said:


> Jeepers there's not a kinder breeder in your entire state.


Well, not officially, perhaps... But obviously there was at least 1 unofficial breeder!


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## healthyishappy

Yep so if I don't want to have goats that are mixed with three breeds I might want to stick to something in my area.
probably mini-nubians instead.


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## mariarose

But what about your Alpines?


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## mariarose

Too bad you live so far away... Look at this guy.
https://nashville.craigslist.org/grd/d/cookeville-spotted-billy-goat/6904293680.html


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## healthyishappy

mariarose said:


> But what about your Alpines?


I was just meaning for the new goat I'm getting.
I already have everything figured out for my alpines.


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## healthyishappy

mariarose said:


> Too bad you live so far away... Look at this guy.
> https://nashville.craigslist.org/grd/d/cookeville-spotted-billy-goat/6904293680.html


Too bad he's not closer!!
He's looks very good.


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## healthyishappy

Well her sire is registered but not her dam.


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## healthyishappy

I found this mini-nubian.
What do you think.
I'm not sure what "F" she is and shes not registered.
I need to ask if she has been tested for cl/cae/johnes disease.
She seems to not be mineral deficient to me. They want $300 for her do you think shes worth that?
She produces about two quarts a day


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## ksalvagno

Pretty girl. Has a nice shiny black coat. Looks healthy. $300 for a goat in milk not registered is an acceptable price in my area but have no idea about your area.


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## healthyishappy

ksalvagno said:


> Pretty girl. Has a nice shiny black coat. Looks healthy. $300 for a goat in milk not registered is an acceptable price in my area but have no idea about your area.


I know, she seems to be in good health.
it is a bit expensive for my area but maybe I can get them to lower it.


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## mariarose

Remember, when you drive down a fair price for someone who is supplying a superior product, you are driving down the price for yourself later.
Just sayin'.

What's your goal for your herd? How will this purchase help you get there?


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## healthyishappy

mariarose said:


> What's your goal for your herd? How will this purchase help you get there?


My goal is to have milk goats that I make cheese, butter, yogurt and other dairy products and to sell them.


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## mariarose

And how will she move you toward that? I mean as opposed to supporting and developing your current herd?

Are you planning to sell your standards and focus on minis? If not, are you up to the juggling required to have that kind of mixed size breeding, and feeding, and medication?

I don't have to know these answers. Because these aren't my plans. But these are things you should know and answer for yourself.


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## Sfgwife

How many times has she freshened? Is the two qts just on once a day milking And how long fresh? Since you are looking for milk volume. How are her udder attachments? Her coat looks good. How about her feet? Ask about how often they trim her and how often she needs wormed. The price is really good like ksalvango said for a non registered mini in milk here too. I just picked up a registered f5 for more than that in milk and she really needs some mineral and i had trim hooves from the get go. Mine does have a beautiful udder and gives lots of milk esp for a ff and her conformation is good. So aside from the mineral and hooves i am happy with my girl. And like mariarose.. i dont need the answers just things for you to know about her.


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## healthyishappy

Unfortunately after a couple weeks of trying to get info (which I never did) they backed out and decided they didn't want to sell her.


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## Dwarf Dad

That may be best. Also may be a much better for you doe looking for you now.


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## healthyishappy

So this is my new adventure!
I am hopefully getting a buck. I know that keeping a buck is expensive and they're mean when in rut but because its such a pain too try to catch mine in heat ill spend the extra money. Im going to get a nigi because I will not have a 200lb buck that will just be a total pain. This buck is close and (supposedly) has good milk lines. What do you think? https://stgeorge.craigslist.org/grd/d/cedar-city-nigerian-dwarf-bucks-intact/6952285753.html


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## healthyishappy

Im not sure which one of the two bucks it is but just give me an opinion on both and ill ask which one it is.


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## mariarose

Both of them are for sale, and the owner would like them to be sold together.

Which isn't a bad idea. You can choose the one you like best and then wether the other. You'd have to keep your buck with a buddy anyway and these 2 already like each other. I don't now if your large wethers would do or not. Maybe.

Good price.

Both seem fine from those pics (which don't really show much), you'll want to go and see them in person before making the decision. You'll also want to see and evaluate the parents, especially the dam's udder. Check everyone's hooves. Look through the Buck Forum here for evaluations and critiques so you have a better idea of what you are seeing.

Once you get your purchase(s) home, ignore what the owner says about only grass hay. If you don't give some alfalfa for the calcium you really are setting them up for stones.

Best I can do.


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## mariarose

I like this guy
https://stgeorge.craigslist.org/grd/d/cedar-city-nubian-buck-goat/6932304107.html


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## healthyishappy

mariarose said:


> Both of them are for sale, and the owner would like them to be sold together.
> 
> Which isn't a bad idea. You can choose the one you like best and then wether the other. You'd have to keep your buck with a buddy anyway and these 2 already like each other. I don't now if your large wethers would do or not. Maybe.
> 
> Good price.
> 
> Both seem fine from those pics (which don't really show much), you'll want to go and see them in person before making the decision. You'll also want to see and evaluate the parents, especially the dam's udder. Check everyone's hooves. Look through the Buck Forum here for evaluations and critiques so you have a better idea of what you are seeing.
> 
> Once you get your purchase(s) home, ignore what the owner says about only grass hay. If you don't give some alfalfa for the calcium you really are setting them up for stones.
> 
> Best I can do.


They already sold one buck.
I am going to evaluate them. Already writing down stuff from the thread I posted about what to ask. I was thinking the same thing about the hay. I am going to get some grass hay soon so he'll be getting alfalfa/grass.

So I know your'e not supposed to feed bucks or wethers grain but if hes losing weight say in the rut season then is it ok to feed a little oats? or would beet pellets be better?


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## healthyishappy

mariarose said:


> I like this guy
> https://stgeorge.craigslist.org/grd/d/cedar-city-nubian-buck-goat/6932304107.html


I like him too but hes a massive buck, twice as much money too feed and I can only breed him too my full alpine not my mini alpine.


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## Iluvlilly!

healthyishappy said:


> https://stgeorge.craigslist.org/grd/d/cedar-city-nigerian-dwarf-bucks-intact/6952285753.html


:inlove::inlove::inlove::inlove::inlove::inlove::inlove::inlove::inlove::hubbahubba::hubbahubba::hubbahubba::hubbahubba::hubbahubba::hubbahubba::hubbahubba:


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## healthyishappy

Spades said:


> :inlove::inlove::inlove::inlove::inlove::inlove::inlove::inlove::inlove::hubbahubba::hubbahubba::hubbahubba::hubbahubba::hubbahubba::hubbahubba::hubbahubba:


I thought the same!! Nigis are known for they're beautiful colors!!!


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## Iluvlilly!

healthyishappy said:


> I thought the same!! Nigis are known for they're beautiful colors!!!


Cool!!!!!!


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## Sfgwife

healthyishappy said:


> So this is my new adventure!
> I am hopefully getting a buck. I know that keeping a buck is expensive and they're mean when in rut but because its such a pain too try to catch mine in heat ill spend the extra money. Im going to get a nigi because I will not have a 200lb buck that will just be a total pain. This buck is close and (supposedly) has good milk lines. What do you think? https://stgeorge.craigslist.org/grd/d/cedar-city-nigerian-dwarf-bucks-intact/6952285753.html


Bucks are not all mean when in rut. Stinky yes but not mean. The important things are to not play rough with them when they are young and when they blub at you or try buttin make sure they know that is not ok. Spend time with them like you do the does and you can have very sweet loving boys even in rut.

Ours will spar between themselves and blub at each other but never at us. Cause we give treats, clean water and food. Two came here grown... one loves to be rubbed the other not so much. But they are good boys. Slick was born here and is very gentle. None of them jump on us... unlike the does and wethers. Bratty kids. But they are all learnin no treats if they do that.


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## healthyishappy

Sfgwife said:


> Bucks are not all mean when in rut. Stinky yes but not mean. The important things are to not play rough with them when they are young and when they blub at you or try buttin make sure they know that is not ok. Spend time with them like you do the does and you can have very sweet loving boys even in rut.
> 
> Ours will spar between themselves and blub at each other but never at us. Cause we give treats, clean water and food. Two came here grown... one loves to be rubbed the other not so much. But they are good boys. Slick was born here and is very gentle. None of them jump on us... unlike the does and wethers. Bratty kids. But they are all learnin no treats if they do that.


Thank you!!! How do I teach them not too but the best way??
I had one buck who would be nice and the next second just hit you so im kinda wary...


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## Sfgwife

healthyishappy said:


> Thank you!!! How do I teach them not too but the best way??
> I had one buck who would be nice and the next second just hit you so im kinda wary...


A no and walk away or pop a nose if they keep it up or walk them beside you for a bit. Dont push their head.. that is just an invite to a buck. Some people do not like to pop noses and that is my last resort. I have also held a collar so they cannot jump or butt. You can also if you see them gettin excited change the game to lovin on them instead of givin them the chance to want to play rough. Love them a d sweet talk them about how good a boy they are.


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## healthyishappy

Sfgwife said:


> A no and walk away or pop a nose if they keep it up or walk them beside you for a bit. Dont push their head.. that is just an invite to a buck. Some people do not like to pop noses and that is my last resort. I have also held a collar so they cannot jump or butt. You can also if you see them gettin excited change the game to lovin on them instead of givin them the chance to want to play rough. Love them a d sweet talk them about how good a boy they are.


Pop their nose with......?????


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## Iluvlilly!

healthyishappy said:


> Pop their nose with......?????


Im thinking with your finger/hand.


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## healthyishappy

Spades said:


> Im thinking with your finger/hand.


Same, I just don't see why people wouldn't want to do that.


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## Iluvlilly!

healthyishappy said:


> Same, I just don't see why people wouldn't want to do that.


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## Sfgwife

healthyishappy said:


> Pop their nose with......?????


Yep just a hand. But some people do not like doin it. Like i said. That is my last resort. I do not want them thinkin my hand is mean any time i use it on them. And not hard just to let them know this is not ok... their noses are sensitive.

Yes i am always more cautious around the bucks simply because of their size. But i am not afraid to be d down to clean a bucket with them close either. Even in rut. And any of the corrections just depends on that buck too. So you just need to know your bucks. Mine are pretty good so we got luckyk.


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## mariarose

Bucks can take any physical rap to the head or face as a challenge. So it has to be done with care and thought.


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## Sfgwife

mariarose said:


> Bucks can take any physical rap to the head or face as a challenge. So it has to be done with care and thought.


Exactly! That is why knowin your buck is important. . Mine like the love and rubs and treats. I can get them to do most anything for a horse treat lol!


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## healthyishappy

mariarose said:


> Bucks can take any physical rap to the head or face as a challenge. So it has to be done with care and thought.


So maybe squirt gun instead? Just curious, if you filled up a spray bottle with vinegar and sprayed it in their eyes ( only use in worst occasion) would it hurt them besides the sting?


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## healthyishappy

Sfgwife said:


> Exactly! That is why knowin your buck is important. . Mine like the love and rubs and treats. I can get them to do most anything for a horse treat lol!


I dont have treats but I could always give them a couple alfalfa pellets or beet pulp.


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## Dwarf Dad

healthyishappy said:


> I dont have treats but I could always give them a couple alfalfa pellets or beet pulp.


Really, just about anything is a treat. Dry cereal works.


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## goatblessings

I find just working with the bucks from the first day and setting up expectations. Don't let him cut you off, walk in front of you or be disrespectful. I've had massive bucks that were easy to manage, daily contact to me is the key. As far as feed, I like to put on a little weight before breeding season, make sure all hooves are trimmed, fecal done and they are not deficient in copper , selenium etc. Evaluate your all around program for both does and bucks before breeding.


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## healthyishappy

Since my alpine doe will be much larger than the buck is there any problems with him being able to reach? How can I help with that?


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## ksalvagno

Back the doe up to a stand or a hay bale or something.


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## Chelsey

healthyishappy said:


> Since my alpine doe will be much larger than the buck is there any problems with him being able to reach? How can I help with that?


He should be able to do just fine. My Nigerian managed to breed my Nubian. Having her stand at the bottom of a small hill, in a hole, or next to a bale of hay should work. They're determined little guys.


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## healthyishappy

Ok thanks.


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## healthyishappy

So I got him!!!!
He is definitely in rut!!!
So I’m wondering either dehorn him or leave his horns?
With horns I have great handles to control him but if he hits me it will be worse than without horns!


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## ksalvagno

See how it goes with the horns. If you find it is more than you can handle, then figure out what you want to do.


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## healthyishappy

ksalvagno said:


> See how it goes with the horns. If you find it is more than you can handle, then figure out what you want to do.


If what is more than I can handle? The horns or the goat?
I can handle the goat, I had one just like him before.
If this one try's too show me any "tricks" I'll show him how many I got up my sleeve!


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## healthyishappy

Btw he was getting sweetlix at his home so glad about that and he had his yearly cdt booster in june!
He has already sired triplets!
I think he will be a wonderful husband to my does!


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## healthyishappy

He has not been tested for car cl and Johns’s but that’s on my to do list now. Definitely taking him to the vet for that!


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## Iluvlilly!

healthyishappy said:


> I think he will be a wonderful husband to my does!


Thats good


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## PetLover

healthyishappy said:


> I think he will be a wonderful husband to my does!


So whens the wedding? You paying for EVERYTHING?


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## healthyishappy

PetLover said:


> So whens the wedding? You paying for EVERYTHING?


Lol!!!! Yup paying for it all!
Wedding was yesterday but they dont like him so much.


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## Nigerian dwarf goat

I wouldnt handle him by the horns. He may take it as a challenge. Put a collar on him and handle him that way. If you need to dicipline, a firm yank on the beard will do the trick!


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## PetLover

healthyishappy said:


> Lol!!!! Yup paying for it all!
> Wedding was yesterday but they dont like him so much.


:heehee:


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## healthyishappy

Nigerian dwarf goat said:


> I wouldnt handle him by the horns. He may take it as a challenge. Put a collar on him and handle him that way. If you need to dicipline, a firm yank on the beard will do the trick!


Ok thanks.


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## healthyishappy

PetLover said:


> :heehee:


I guess they will when they go into heat though!!!!


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## Iluvlilly!

Nigerian dwarf goat said:


> If you need to dicipline, a firm yank on the beard will do the trick!


Hm never heard of that! Should try it!


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## Iluvlilly!

healthyishappy said:


> I guess they will when they go into heat though!!!!


LOL!!!!!!!!!!


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## healthyishappy

Here is some up close pics of the cute guy!!!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/LYxjtkFTvRNRyxHL7


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## Princess4ever

healthyishappy said:


> Here is some up close pics of the cute guy!!!
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/LYxjtkFTvRNRyxHL7


CUTE:inlove::inlove::inlove::inlove::inlove::inlove::inlove::hubbahubba::hubbahubba::hubbahubba::hubbahubba:


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## healthyishappy

The sweetlix has kept him very pretty but I suspect a small copper deficiency so I gave him two grams copper.


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## Princess4ever

healthyishappy said:


> Here is some up close pics of the cute guy!!!
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/LYxjtkFTvRNRyxHL7


Did you name him?


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## goatblessings

Also - the number of kids is determined by the doe, not the buck. The buck determines gender.


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## healthyishappy

goatblessings said:


> Also - the number of kids is determined by the doe, not the buck. The buck determines gender.


Good to know! In that case I I yo tell my buck I'd like some does this year!!!!


Princess4ever said:


> Did you name him?


Nope!!!!


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## healthyishappy

So I put my wethers in with the buck and he kept blubbering and chasing them around! Is this ok?

Also for those if you who know about hand breeding, my large alpine doe is somewhat easy to find when shes in heat cause she wags tail and acts weird but my younger doe I can't seem to find her heat signs. Any help? 
Hand breeding is what I prefer because i like to know when they are going to go so I can plan.


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## Chelsey

healthyishappy said:


> So I put my wethers in with the buck and he kept blubbering and chasing them around! Is this ok?
> 
> Also for those if you who know about hand breeding, my large alpine doe is somewhat easy to find when shes in heat cause she wags tail and acts weird but my younger doe I can't seem to find her heat signs. Any help?
> Hand breeding is what I prefer because i like to know when they are going to go so I can plan.


I am not absolutely sure about this, but I believe that silent heats are a sign of selenium deficiency. Mariarose would probably know better. If you have a pen where your Doe can see and smell your buck, she may at least rub against the closest fence or stand with her rump towards him.


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## healthyishappy

Chelsey said:


> I am not absolutely sure about this, but I believe that silent heats are a sign of selenium deficiency. Mariarose would probably know better. If you have a pen where your Doe can see and smell your buck, she may at least rub against the closest fence or stand with her rump towards him.


I kinda doubt shes selenium deficient.
I will look for that, thanks!


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## Chelsey

healthyishappy said:


> I kinda doubt shes selenium deficient.
> I will look for that, thanks!


That's good! She just likes keeping her business to herself then!


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## healthyishappy

So I put some sweetlix in his pen but he has no salt. Should i buy some loose salt for him?


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## mariarose

healthyishappy said:


> Should i buy some loose salt for him?


Loose, or a block. It isn't so important with the salt lick.

Bucks need more zinc than does seem to, so keep that in mind when choosing a salt. It's a good way to sneak some zinc.


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## healthyishappy

mariarose said:


> Loose, or a block. It isn't so important with the salt lick.
> 
> Bucks need more zinc than does seem to, so keep that in mind when choosing a salt. It's a good way to sneak some zinc.


What's a good salt with zinc? Either a block or loose I dont care. 
He doesn't have any salt besides the minerals as he is in a different cage than the does.


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## mariarose

How about you order another one of the EDDI blocks? That one has plenty of zinc.

Or give him one of the other blocks that your girls have? I think I remember you had a mineral salt block in there that I said you didn't have to replace when it ran out? That should have zinc in it.

Were I you, I'd just use up what I had for a while. But give him what you'd like. It's mostly just salt, after all!

And remember, Redmond is always acceptable to me...


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## mariarose

For the silent heat question above, I've never read that was a symptom of a selenium deficiency.

Or if I did read it, I've forgotten. I'll dig into this to remember if I forgot or not


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## healthyishappy

mariarose said:


> How about you order another one of the EDDI blocks? That one has plenty of zinc.
> 
> Or give him one of the other blocks that your girls have? I think I remember you had a mineral salt block in there that I said you didn't have to replace when it ran out? That should have zinc in it.
> Well he could have the mineral block nut I want my girls to have the eddi and the selenium block.
> Were I you, I'd just use up what I had for a while. But give him what you'd like. It's mostly just salt, after all!
> 
> And remember, Redmond is always acceptable to me...


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## healthyishappy

mariarose said:


> Were I you, I'd just use up what I had for a while. But give him what you'd like. It's mostly just salt, after all!
> 
> And remember, Redmond is always acceptable to me...


Ok, I'll just put the mineral block from the girls that you said I didnt need another of.
Redmond would be great but I dkmt know which one to get!


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## mariarose

@healthyishappy said
"Well he could have the mineral block but I want my girls to have the EDDI and the selenium block."

Problem solved.


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## mariarose

healthyishappy said:


> Redmond would be great but I dkmt know which one to get!


Which ones can you get?


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## healthyishappy

mariarose said:


> Which ones can you get?


No clue? Because I dont know what ones are the best.


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## mariarose

Here is an incomplete list of their products. Do you remember seeing any of these?
https://www.redmondagriculture.com/products/


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## healthyishappy

mariarose said:


> Here is an incomplete list of their products. Do you remember seeing any of these?
> https://www.redmondagriculture.com/products/


Thanks! No but im sure I can find any of them.


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## healthyishappy

This one is actually my mineral block that I put in with the buck:
https://www.redmondagriculture.com/products/natural-mineral-salt-block/


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## mariarose

I'm so jealous...
Now, just look at the analysis of each of the others and it'll tell you how much of what is in each. That'll help you decide what you want to get next.


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